Ride height
#1

When you guys are setting ride heights, do you just let place the car on a level surface and measure or do you push it down and let the suspension settle or just let it drop into position then measure?
Also I'm using a MIP tweak station, if for example the rear wheels are on the solid bar, the fronts being on the moveable section, if the RHF wheel appears the be down (bubble going towards the LHF) do you adjust the preload on the LHF spring to push down on that corner or do you adjust more preload on the RHR spring so the chassis then places more weight onto the LHF.
Thanks for any help
Also I'm using a MIP tweak station, if for example the rear wheels are on the solid bar, the fronts being on the moveable section, if the RHF wheel appears the be down (bubble going towards the LHF) do you adjust the preload on the LHF spring to push down on that corner or do you adjust more preload on the RHR spring so the chassis then places more weight onto the LHF.
Thanks for any help
#2

First off this may be some of your problems......
Yes, you must compress the suspension beforemaking any adjustmants, most on-road guys push down on the center of teh car a few times and then release it..... most off-road guys drop their cars....
The car must be fully loaded and race ready with teh exception of the body...
You must set ride height before checking tweak.... It will take a lot of time initially, but you need to have your preload collars as close to equal with each other side to side when your ride height is set.... meaning if your RHF collar has 4mm of preload on it you want the LHF to be as close to 4mm as possible.....
Then when you set tweak you will adjust pre-load in a crossing pattern... meaning if the RHF is light you will add weight to the LHR if it takes more than a full turn or 2 you may want to go back and check your chassis for actual twist or unequal weight right to left,or even pre-load adjustment mistakes you made while setting rideheight.....
Yes, you must compress the suspension beforemaking any adjustmants, most on-road guys push down on the center of teh car a few times and then release it..... most off-road guys drop their cars....
The car must be fully loaded and race ready with teh exception of the body...
You must set ride height before checking tweak.... It will take a lot of time initially, but you need to have your preload collars as close to equal with each other side to side when your ride height is set.... meaning if your RHF collar has 4mm of preload on it you want the LHF to be as close to 4mm as possible.....
Then when you set tweak you will adjust pre-load in a crossing pattern... meaning if the RHF is light you will add weight to the LHR if it takes more than a full turn or 2 you may want to go back and check your chassis for actual twist or unequal weight right to left,or even pre-load adjustment mistakes you made while setting rideheight.....
#3

Thank you for the answer
#4

Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Then when you set tweak you will adjust pre-load in a crossing pattern... meaning if the RHF is light you will add weight to the LHR if it takes more than a full turn or 2 you may want to go back and check your chassis for actual twist or unequal weight right to left,or even pre-load adjustment mistakes you made while setting rideheight.....
Then when you set tweak you will adjust pre-load in a crossing pattern... meaning if the RHF is light you will add weight to the LHR if it takes more than a full turn or 2 you may want to go back and check your chassis for actual twist or unequal weight right to left,or even pre-load adjustment mistakes you made while setting rideheight.....
direct tweak is when you balance the rear using the rear shocks and use the front shocks to balance the tweak of the front end.
both methods are legit and both work its just a matter of what suits you.
my recommendation is that you try both and go from there.
