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Old 03-22-2011, 10:23 AM   #16
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I've yet to run on carpet, but in the past I ran outdoors and the CRC pre-trued did the job, it was parking lot racing so I think the little bit of extra rubber helped tame the car (vs. running them super thin). I hope that I can find some good indoor 12th to start running. Will probably just get the same tires and call it a day. Spec tires is not really a solution for 12th. I know one thing, once you wheel one, that TC car seems like a big, heavy dump-truck . Too bad it isn't popular everywhere, it really should be...
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Old 03-22-2011, 11:45 AM   #17
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I've yet to run on carpet, but in the past I ran outdoors and the CRC pre-trued did the job, it was parking lot racing so I think the little bit of extra rubber helped tame the car (vs. running them super thin). I hope that I can find some good indoor 12th to start running. Will probably just get the same tires and call it a day. Spec tires is not really a solution for 12th. I know one thing, once you wheel one, that TC car seems like a big, heavy dump-truck . Too bad it isn't popular everywhere, it really should be...

When running outdoors I have found the more foam on the rim the better, as it will make more traction. Carpet can build up to much traction and the cars have a tendacy to traction roll. Truing the tires almost down to the rim helps prevent traction roll, and it has less rotating mass as well.

Another problem with spec tires is when you travel, depending on the surface some compounds just dont hook up, so you need a selection to make the cars drivable.
Pan cars when working properly are awesome to try, but when they are not working, they can be the biggest nightmare!


Shawn.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:40 PM   #18
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When running outdoors I have found the more foam on the rim the better, as it will make more traction. Carpet can build up to much traction and the cars have a tendacy to traction roll. Truing the tires almost down to the rim helps prevent traction roll, and it has less rotating mass as well.

Another problem with spec tires is when you travel, depending on the surface some compounds just dont hook up, so you need a selection to make the cars drivable.
Pan cars when working properly are awesome to try, but when they are not working, they can be the biggest nightmare!


Shawn.
Dually noted, I will keep that in mind should I run some carpet. As a counter measure to traction roll due to tire diameter, could a harder compound, or just saucing the inner part help prevent this if running the thicker tire? Sorry to take this thread away from it's original direction, but I guess we all agree NO SPEC . Anyways, let me know your thoughts on that. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a truer, at least for the moment.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:01 PM   #19
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I find on most carpet tracks, fairly large tires can work very well. Yeah maybe they are .05 slower but that's about it. But then you get the really high bite stuff, well nothing big is going to work. Just take a bare wheel, spread some glue on it and roll it over the tire truing table.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:07 PM   #20
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Even if you look at the spec tires for WGT it is not a cookie cutter approach. You have to make so many adjustments as far as how much to sauce or not sauce on the fronts, do you cut em to skins or no, glue the sidewalls or not. It isn't just take them out of the package, put them on and go run. 1/12th works the way it is, leave it that way. My 2 cents.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:59 PM   #21
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I find on most carpet tracks, fairly large tires can work very well. Yeah maybe they are .05 slower but that's about it. But then you get the really high bite stuff, well nothing big is going to work. Just take a bare wheel, spread some glue on it and roll it over the tire truing table.
Same technique as making the edible donuts, eh ??? The track that is supposed to open near me will mostly be the rubber/tc crowd I beleive, with a little bit of 12th going on (hopefully). Not sure if it will be real high bite... if so I will scan ebay for a cheap truer. Unfortunately I have no idea what to look for.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:02 PM   #22
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Same technique as making the edible donuts, eh ??? The track that is supposed to open near me will mostly be the rubber/tc crowd I beleive, with a little bit of 12th going on (hopefully). Not sure if it will be real high bite... if so I will scan ebay for a cheap truer. Unfortunately I have no idea what to look for.
Sounds like it wont be high bite. Especially for stock, you should be able to run them pretty big with good results.

You still may want a truer though. It helps for rounding off edges, evening up uneven sets, and even when big tires work well, you sometimes still want to go smaller than straight out of the pack.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #23
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Dually noted, I will keep that in mind should I run some carpet. As a counter measure to traction roll due to tire diameter, could a harder compound, or just saucing the inner part help prevent this if running the thicker tire? Sorry to take this thread away from it's original direction, but I guess we all agree NO SPEC . Anyways, let me know your thoughts on that. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a truer, at least for the moment.

What I have found for 1/12 scale, is side bite (which causes the car to traction roll), is worse on some of the harder compounds. On a loose track I run grey-lows (grey on the outer rim, yellow for the rest). Its a great all round tire, but when the traction comes up alittle to high for them, I will switch to White rears. They free the back of my car up preventing it from rolling, and still give me lots of forward bite.

Our indoor season is now over, but I think next year I want to try the Pink/DPink combo, they seem to have lots of grip, and wear like iron.


For WGT (which is a spec tire), is on carpet we have to true them right down to the rim, or the car will constantly flip over, (they have too much traction in the front), and for outdoors run them full size in the rear, and true the fronts down just alittle. If you take care of your tires during the summer months (no chunking), then you can true them down for the winter to finish them off, so they do last long. Maybe 2-3 sets all year.

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Old 03-22-2011, 03:38 PM   #24
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Spec tyres, rubber tyres, hard tyres, no additive soft tyres... it's all been tried and it has never worked. In between the differences in chassis set-up, driving style, track condition and type of additive, there are so many variables that this system can't work.

By default, we have control tyres. Check out set-up sheets for most big events, and I notice that most Mod drivers run Magenta/Magenta, most mid-rrange classes run Pink/Yellow with 2x Pink/Magenta up front, and 17.5 seems to run Yellow/Black.

One last thing that people forget. 12th is probably the only class where anyone and everyone will help everyone else. Anything you want to know, want to borrow, or want done, you will always find someone at a meeting to help you. Can't say that of any other class. These suggestions usually come form people who don't know this, and feel afraid to ask. You want tyre advice, tyres trued or to borrow tyres to try - just ask. Why is this so? Because all 12th drivers know that results are dependent on just one thing; driving talent. We'll share anything with anyone because we know that if you have more or less talent, that's where you'll end up compared to us.

It ain't broke in your part of the world, so don't fix it. Just make sure everyone knows what a friendly bunch we are, and how much we will help we give, and you won't have any problem getting more drivers. HTH
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:11 PM   #25
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Cost of racing has been a sore spot around the house this year, so making the most of every racing dollar spent is what its all about now. Thats why I started mounting my own donuts. Its about 1/2 the price of pre-mounts.


Shawn.
I thought this too at first...then I looked at the numbers. Front donuts run about $9 while front mounted Jacos are $10. For me it is worth $1 to not have to glue them.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:08 PM   #26
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I thought this too at first...then I looked at the numbers. Front donuts run about $9 while front mounted Jacos are $10. For me it is worth $1 to not have to glue them.
I dont know where you got your donuts from, but its $5 for fronts, and $6 for rear, and around here pre-mounts are $15 (pair)

I already have access to the chemicals needed (laquer thinner, and contact cement) from my woodshop. So the price is less then half. If I was only saving $1, I wouldnt waste my time.


Cheers,
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:17 PM   #27
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I dont know where you got your donuts from, but its $5 for fronts, and $6 for rear, and around here pre-mounts are $15 (pair)

I already have access to the chemicals needed (laquer thinner, and contact cement) from my woodshop. So the price is less then half. If I was only saving $1, I wouldnt waste my time.


Cheers,
Shawn.
I don't know where you get your stuff, but most sell tires for 10 a pair plus or minus a dollar. Donuts seem to be almost unobtainable and when you do find them, they are 7-9 dollars.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:31 PM   #28
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Windtunnel has donuts for $5-6...
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:59 PM   #29
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I dont know where you got your donuts from, but its $5 for fronts, and $6 for rear, and around here pre-mounts are $15 (pair)

I already have access to the chemicals needed (laquer thinner, and contact cement) from my woodshop. So the price is less then half. If I was only saving $1, I wouldnt waste my time.


Cheers,
Shawn.
Those are Stormer prices for CRC donuts and Jaco pre-mounts. I could see mounting my own if I were paying $15 a pair for pre-mounts but at $10 it is worth it to me not to have to mess with it.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:37 PM   #30
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Got to agree with SlowerOne on the general helpfullness. One of the reasons I got into it at one point was because of meeting guys that ran the class, and hearing their enthusiasm. I never had a TC guy do his best to get me to run that class (no bashing I will run either). I ran with Jason of BMI once in south florida when I first got a 12th and was trying to figure it out, the dude was a total help... as were a number of other cats. Thing about 12th, I would see people try it, struggle off the bat, then quit. I ran tbar at first, and was having some issues at times. Went to link and I was hooked. But it's all about what works, I always had help with whatever I ran. Only reason I have a TC at the moment is because inevitably, it's the only class I can count on always existing. 12th is so much more fun though.
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