hpi
03-19-2011, 11:59 PM
#1
hpi
heeey guys i am looking at geting an nroad car and i have cut my options down to 2 cars the
hpi sprint 2 flux $499
and
hpi sprint 2 sport $329
anyone know how fast either of them goo ? durable etc ?
and is it worth getting the more expensive one ?
and also if my friend has a drift car and wants it to be a touring ca, can he just change the wheels ?
thanks guys
Last edited by jamesdas; 03-20-2011 at 01:53 AM.
03-20-2011, 12:55 AM
#2
Tech Adept
hey james das im not sure
03-20-2011, 01:19 AM
#3
ohh well thats no help :s anyone else know anything ? any info will be much appreciated 
03-20-2011, 01:33 AM
#4
Both very similar belt driven cars. They are nearly identical apart from the motor and esc setup, but the flux looks like it might have a lower center of gravity.
The main difference is the sport is a brushed setup vs the flux being brushless. As far as what is faster, im not 100% on working out the rough kv of a brushed motor, but typically lower motor windings is higher rpm with lower torque. With a bushless, the kv x battery volts = unloaded RPM. so a 5700kv motor with a 7.4v lipo will be 42180rpm. But for its speed that is determined by its gear ratio.
But the short answer is that i think you will find the flux faster.
Sport
http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.ph...104671&lang=en
Flux
http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.ph...101556&lang=en
As for your friends drifter the answer is yes, pretty much. The suspension settings might need some tweaking for handling, and if hes locked the diff or anything for drift its probably best if its converted back to normal.
The main difference is the sport is a brushed setup vs the flux being brushless. As far as what is faster, im not 100% on working out the rough kv of a brushed motor, but typically lower motor windings is higher rpm with lower torque. With a bushless, the kv x battery volts = unloaded RPM. so a 5700kv motor with a 7.4v lipo will be 42180rpm. But for its speed that is determined by its gear ratio.
But the short answer is that i think you will find the flux faster.
Sport
http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.ph...104671&lang=en
Flux
http://www.hpieurope.com/kit-info.ph...101556&lang=en
As for your friends drifter the answer is yes, pretty much. The suspension settings might need some tweaking for handling, and if hes locked the diff or anything for drift its probably best if its converted back to normal.
03-20-2011, 01:53 AM
#5
ok thanks mate. i am only 14 an sorry but i didnt really get all that, but thanks
ok good i think his car has a locked diff we will just change it back
um soo do you think i should bay the extra $170 for the flux like is it a big speed difrence ? thanks mate james
ok good i think his car has a locked diff we will just change it back
um soo do you think i should bay the extra $170 for the flux like is it a big speed difrence ? thanks mate james
03-20-2011, 02:08 AM
#6
lol, no probs mate.
For a $170 it might be worth it. Just last week i spent about $300 getting the gear to change my car over to brushless.. Because, you get the new motor, which needs a new speed controller. The new combo needs more power so you go lipo. Lipo means new charger as well as the new batteries. Because you now have a faster motor, you need to change the gears of the car so you dont damage it so you need some new gears. Also, because if your lipos get damaged, or aren't balanced properly or whatever they can catch on fire you need a lipo safe bag...
Breaking that down for ya cost wise:
Batteries for the sport will be something between $20 and $50 depending on if you buy it online from overseas or ebay, or your local hobby shop (LHS). The charger for those will be somthing between $20 and $50 depending on what type and where you get it from. Because these are NiMH they are pretty easy to charge, just plug em in and let them go.
For the flux
Lipo will cost you about the same overseas, but will be alot more at your LHS. Lipos can be a bit fiddly, you need to be a bit more careful with them and they can catch on fire (if your not careful)
For a $170 it might be worth it. Just last week i spent about $300 getting the gear to change my car over to brushless.. Because, you get the new motor, which needs a new speed controller. The new combo needs more power so you go lipo. Lipo means new charger as well as the new batteries. Because you now have a faster motor, you need to change the gears of the car so you dont damage it so you need some new gears. Also, because if your lipos get damaged, or aren't balanced properly or whatever they can catch on fire you need a lipo safe bag...
Breaking that down for ya cost wise:
Batteries for the sport will be something between $20 and $50 depending on if you buy it online from overseas or ebay, or your local hobby shop (LHS). The charger for those will be somthing between $20 and $50 depending on what type and where you get it from. Because these are NiMH they are pretty easy to charge, just plug em in and let them go.
For the flux
Lipo will cost you about the same overseas, but will be alot more at your LHS. Lipos can be a bit fiddly, you need to be a bit more careful with them and they can catch on fire (if your not careful)
03-20-2011, 02:24 AM
#7
ok thanks mate
hopefully you got my pm
hopefully you got my pm
03-20-2011, 02:47 AM
#8
Sure did, and no problems
03-20-2011, 05:35 AM
#9
James, I don't think you understood very well or perhaps we didn't understand very well what you want to do.
The cars you're looking at are not exactly competition grade. If you want to look at total cost a good car plus electronice can be up to about 2000$. That includes a couple of good Lipo batteries and pit electronics such as power source and battery charger plus some basic tools to help you with maintenance.
For this money there isn't much room for error. You need to get everything right otherwise it can become an expensive detour from getting the car you are going to race in the end.
That being said, there are places overseas that sell these things for a lot less money. For instance for 499$ you can get an Xray top of the line chassis from HK or even US. There will be no electronics with it though, so you need to factor in a radio, speedo, servo and motor. On top of that come the batteries, etc. And don't forget tires.
That Flux car you're looking at might seem like a good deal, but as I said before, make sure you can get everything you need for it in a hurry, otherwise you're going to spend a lot of time off the track waiting for parts to arrive at your local shop. I take it you haven't tried the local track yet? You might have the surprise that once you buy that car you find out that the tires are no good and the bodyshell is not allowed in racing. So you're back at the shop to spend another 100$ to buy the proper tires and shell.
A better alternative for an entry level chassis is the Xray T3R or one of the Tamiya spec "R" chassies. These are around the 200$ mark (from HK) and come with a lot of race-spec parts, like shocks, suspension parts, etc. Still need to buy a bodyshell and tires, but at least you don't pay for something you won't use. Of the two, perhaps the T3 is the better choice albeit the dearer of the two but you pay for quality. The rest (electronics, etc) are not included either.
The only really cheap alternative of some performance is the Tamiya XB mini if your club is running such a series. You can buy a car ready built with all the electronics, (including radio) for about 250$ in Australia. Still need to buy batteries and charger and you can go racing. It is not going to be very fast, but it will be on pace with the rest of the mini class, as this is the most level class there is. IF the club is running it, that is. That's why you really need to go at the club meeting. Trust me, you can make a big mistake if you buy before.
The cars you're looking at are not exactly competition grade. If you want to look at total cost a good car plus electronice can be up to about 2000$. That includes a couple of good Lipo batteries and pit electronics such as power source and battery charger plus some basic tools to help you with maintenance.
For this money there isn't much room for error. You need to get everything right otherwise it can become an expensive detour from getting the car you are going to race in the end.
That being said, there are places overseas that sell these things for a lot less money. For instance for 499$ you can get an Xray top of the line chassis from HK or even US. There will be no electronics with it though, so you need to factor in a radio, speedo, servo and motor. On top of that come the batteries, etc. And don't forget tires.
That Flux car you're looking at might seem like a good deal, but as I said before, make sure you can get everything you need for it in a hurry, otherwise you're going to spend a lot of time off the track waiting for parts to arrive at your local shop. I take it you haven't tried the local track yet? You might have the surprise that once you buy that car you find out that the tires are no good and the bodyshell is not allowed in racing. So you're back at the shop to spend another 100$ to buy the proper tires and shell.
A better alternative for an entry level chassis is the Xray T3R or one of the Tamiya spec "R" chassies. These are around the 200$ mark (from HK) and come with a lot of race-spec parts, like shocks, suspension parts, etc. Still need to buy a bodyshell and tires, but at least you don't pay for something you won't use. Of the two, perhaps the T3 is the better choice albeit the dearer of the two but you pay for quality. The rest (electronics, etc) are not included either.
The only really cheap alternative of some performance is the Tamiya XB mini if your club is running such a series. You can buy a car ready built with all the electronics, (including radio) for about 250$ in Australia. Still need to buy batteries and charger and you can go racing. It is not going to be very fast, but it will be on pace with the rest of the mini class, as this is the most level class there is. IF the club is running it, that is. That's why you really need to go at the club meeting. Trust me, you can make a big mistake if you buy before.
03-20-2011, 06:00 AM
#10
heeey mate
yes i have been to the local track and a guy told me to get a hpi e10 but i know that i slow and pretty crap.
i dont really like buying kits because i dont know what motor is good or what servos etc. and i only have $600 to spend
thanks james
yes i have been to the local track and a guy told me to get a hpi e10 but i know that i slow and pretty crap.
i dont really like buying kits because i dont know what motor is good or what servos etc. and i only have $600 to spend
thanks james
03-20-2011, 06:09 AM
#11
03-20-2011, 12:11 PM
#12
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext
-275
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-Combo-175T
-150
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-w-S200-Servo
-100
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Charger-6S-5A
-65
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-74V-5000mAh
-50
= 640 and your racing with a decent set up. Keep in mind spending a little extra money now will save you lots of money later. Spending a little more on a DX3s instead of the dx3e will help you if ever want to run more than one car. You will definitely upgrade from the Novak Havoc, but it gets you racing (and keep in mind to get whatever motor the racing in your area calls for!). With this in mind, don't let someone tell you that you need a tekin and the top xray to be competitive, though you may want to go to those down the road. Learn to race what you have before you upgrade. And keep in mind also that the above was an extremely rough list. Lol, don't go and buy anything till you do some research, and probably ask some guys at the local track. Much of what you buy depends on where your racing, what surface, etc.
Dan.
03-20-2011, 12:47 PM
#13
talking with your local club racers might also be a way to step into a competition level racer for about the same price as you'd pay for a new kit. They may also have other parts you need to get started racing. I've actually always come out better finding nice used cars then when buying kits. I've only ever bought two kits new, a savage x SS and a SC10 rtr. I later got a sc10 roller ran for about 20 minutes for $100 and added electronics (totaling $200 to get my racing on that chassis) and my savage I still have.
If you like HPI, I'd honestly look into a used roller like the Pro 2 - Pro 4 series.
I would also consider a radio setup like this :
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html
It's what I use to race and its honestly as good as most of the other 2.4 radios out there regardless of what other people say. I've raced with a MX-3S and other name brand radios, this compares right up there. Only problem I've run into is the exponential ratio is a bit off.... but I don't use it anyway. Also the receivers are $7 for extras. $35 shipped for a 2.4 radio and receiver that works great is a good deal to me. It's out of stock right now, but they always get them back in.
If you can't wait, here is another low price alternative that is a nice radio, my buddy races with one:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/fs-g3-24ghz-radio.html
A bunch of guys at my track also race with these servos with good luck:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/servo-mg946r.html
As far as ESC I'd look at the hobbywing esc's, they compare pretty nicely for the price to the Mamba and Tekin and are programmable. Maybe not as nice, but I'd run them any day of the week over spending the extra money, since I don't have it.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-60a-...-1-10-car.html
I know some guys that have run these esc's as well as the leopard esc's and brushless combos with good results. As far as motors, find out what your local track races and add it to the ESC I recommended. Everything here is raced by at least myself or some local racers I know. The company website I listed also takes care of you if you run into a problem, and will replace things if they are faulty.
If you're just starting, these things will serve you really well. The only people that would notice a huge difference are expert level racers, and I've had a couple run my trucks and comment on how nice they are for the "off-brand" stuff I was running.
So, look for a nice used roller from a local, see if they have electronics they'd sell you for a reasonable price. Or find a roller and look into the stuff I linked up top. Racing a car someone locally races helps a lot if you need help with setup, as I'm sure you will since you're new. Everyone does.
Brandon
If you like HPI, I'd honestly look into a used roller like the Pro 2 - Pro 4 series.
I would also consider a radio setup like this :
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html
It's what I use to race and its honestly as good as most of the other 2.4 radios out there regardless of what other people say. I've raced with a MX-3S and other name brand radios, this compares right up there. Only problem I've run into is the exponential ratio is a bit off.... but I don't use it anyway. Also the receivers are $7 for extras. $35 shipped for a 2.4 radio and receiver that works great is a good deal to me. It's out of stock right now, but they always get them back in.
If you can't wait, here is another low price alternative that is a nice radio, my buddy races with one:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/fs-g3-24ghz-radio.html
A bunch of guys at my track also race with these servos with good luck:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/servo-mg946r.html
As far as ESC I'd look at the hobbywing esc's, they compare pretty nicely for the price to the Mamba and Tekin and are programmable. Maybe not as nice, but I'd run them any day of the week over spending the extra money, since I don't have it.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-60a-...-1-10-car.html
I know some guys that have run these esc's as well as the leopard esc's and brushless combos with good results. As far as motors, find out what your local track races and add it to the ESC I recommended. Everything here is raced by at least myself or some local racers I know. The company website I listed also takes care of you if you run into a problem, and will replace things if they are faulty.
If you're just starting, these things will serve you really well. The only people that would notice a huge difference are expert level racers, and I've had a couple run my trucks and comment on how nice they are for the "off-brand" stuff I was running.
So, look for a nice used roller from a local, see if they have electronics they'd sell you for a reasonable price. Or find a roller and look into the stuff I linked up top. Racing a car someone locally races helps a lot if you need help with setup, as I'm sure you will since you're new. Everyone does.
Brandon
Last edited by oceanhighz; 03-20-2011 at 01:03 PM.
03-20-2011, 06:41 PM
#14
get them both
03-20-2011, 09:29 PM
#15
QUOTE=jamesdas;8829935]
i dont really like buying kits because i dont know what motor is good or what servos etc. and i only have $600 to spend
thanks james[/QUOTE]
That's exactly why you need to go to the track and ask. They'll help you find out what kit, motor, electronics, etc. you need for your intended purpose.
It seems like you need to learn how to ask quetions too. Don't assume people will know that you want to race. They might think you're a kid after something to play with in the street.
Some posts above are really helpful for you, but it seems that you didn't understand. Perhaps you need to read and google a bit around and then go back to the club and ask some more.
Don't forget, once you spend your money, it's too late to change your mind. Selling a crap kit second hand is nearly impossible and you will take a huge loss.
The idea of buying second hand is fraught with risks. You might buy something that is no longer supported by the manufacturer, or not supported in Australia, in which case you'll depend on ebay and such.