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Old 05-09-2002, 09:40 PM   #31
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BigDogRacing,

What caster are you running?
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Old 05-09-2002, 10:42 PM   #32
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The stock 5deg hub carriers.
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Old 05-10-2002, 08:12 AM   #33
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HI BigDogRacing,

If you have the ability to go to less caster this can also help improve your initial turn-in response and decrease your oversteer mid and corner exit.

It reduces your mid and corner exit steering because reducing the caster also will reduce the camber change during the corner. With less camber change and the weight transfer to the front tires complete your front tire contact patch will be smaller and thus have less grip.

In addition to having less "side" forces to overcome due to less camber, the quicker initial turn-in response is a result of having a larger tire contact patch at the very initial stages of the turn, before the weight has fully transferred to the front wheels. But once the weight is fully transferred to the front tires you will have a smaller contact patch
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Old 05-10-2002, 12:30 PM   #34
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Martin- Another good point. Even more reason that I've decided to get your tuning guide. In fact, my racing partner already downloaded it, we just need to print it out.

I now have 3 things to try next race and a planned order of what to try first. This is the kind of tuning I want to perfect because I hate the "guessing game" type of tuning. I usually end up finding what I need, but I have no plan and order in which I do it.

THanks again Martin!
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:56 AM   #35
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Hi BigDogRacing,

Let me know how those changes work!

Have Fun!!

cya
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Old 05-11-2002, 10:02 AM   #36
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i can tune my touring car reasonably, its my pan car that im having trouble with. is there anything specific to them in your book.
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Old 05-11-2002, 05:56 PM   #37
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Hi Ausracer

Good question!

The book really is geared towards touring cars. Having said that a subset of the content could be applied to pan cars (e.g. weight transfer, caster, camber, toe etc).

Do you think there is a market for a Pan car focused book?
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Old 05-11-2002, 07:33 PM   #38
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You may want to gear that book towards 1/12th scale pancars and 1/10th oval, not may run pro 10 anymore. But then agian gearing to wards pancars would be quite and undevor, concidering that oval alone has soo many different classes and each has their own set of tuning parameters.... let's 1/10th oval breaks down into 4 cell stock, 4 cell 19 turn, 4 cell spec, 4 cell mod, 6 cell stock, 6 cell 19 turn, 6 cell spec, 6 cell mod!!!! LOL..... However if alot of guys hear about it I am sure it will sell and sell well!!!!
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Old 05-11-2002, 08:35 PM   #39
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well i think that there is a a fairly good market for a pan car specific book but not as much as the touring car one. i think it should be in two sections. road course with 1/10, 1/12, f1. and a section for oval.
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Old 05-12-2002, 01:18 AM   #40
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Martin,

I tried something different tonight, I went out with a baseline setup and changed nothing but droop settings. What a difference it makes, almost like a different car from one run to the next. Your setup book mentions this, but I had no idea the effects would be so dramatic. Three different guys at the track asked for setup advice tonight, and I had them change their droop according to the principles you laid out in the guide, and all three were very surprised at the improvements.

I never played much with the droop settings, partially because the Losi has an abysmal droop system. The droop screws are in the soft plastic bumper instead of something rigid, and they bear on the arms so close to the hingepin that there's no leverage to be had.

I was about to give up on the car, but I'm going to give it another go, I'm going to either come up with a more usable droop system or I'll just remove the droop screws and use limiters and the shock ends to set the droop. As it is now, I feel the car has far too much droop, from its 5mm ride height I can lift the car to more than 10mm height and the wheels stay on the ground, hoepfully when I get rid of the current droop screws and use limiters I can get it to a more reasonable amount.

A quick question... My car seem very lazy initiating a turn, I have to let off WAY earlier than most. I'm using a front oneway so I can't really brake effectively. Would an excessive amount of droop make the car feel lazy initiating turns? Once the car is turning it rails, it's just getting it started turning that's the issue.

Thanks for any advice,

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Old 05-12-2002, 01:39 AM   #41
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My mr4tc has no droop screws. What can I do to simulate droop screw adjustments? I really want to experiment.

Can anyone explain the terms and jargons of '4mm droop' and 'rear to front droop difference'? Is there some special gauge to measure droop or is it measured just by eyeballing?
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Old 05-12-2002, 01:50 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by mandy
My mr4tc has no droop screws. What can I do to simulate droop screw adjustments? I really want to experiment.

Can anyone explain the terms and jargons of '4mm droop' and 'rear to front droop difference'? Is there some special gauge to measure droop or is it measured just by eyeballing?
You use droop guage to measure it.
Once you do it, it's not really a fancy thing. Just limiting the arm movement downward.

I'm not sure about the mr4tc but you could drill a hole in A-arm and put screw in it.

You measure it from the ground to bottoe of A-arm when pushed farthest down.

My 2 cents.
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Old 05-12-2002, 04:19 AM   #43
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mandy: The MR4TC has no place for droop screws since there is nothing below the a-arm. You need to play with the shock lengths to do this. Via spacers.

mcrisp: I ready through your reply in the 414M thread, thanks for your answers but I need to ask a bit more
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Old 05-12-2002, 05:36 AM   #44
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Thanks rcruv and Alvin.

If droop is measured from the ground to the bottom of the A-arm (as rcruv pointed out), could I just use a ride-height gauge to do the job?

rcruv, also which part of the bottom of the A-arm? Since there is the innermost and outtermost part. I'm sure it is more objective than just picking any part.
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Old 05-12-2002, 06:15 AM   #45
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Alvin in your 414 posts, I got a few things mixed up. Does increasing the rc in one end make that end harder to roll? And does increasing the rc in one end increase the traction of that end?

Also mcrisp pointed out that increasing the rear toe-in may work well in the first few minutes but later as the tires get warmer things become different. What's the second part of the story? Is the car going to push after the first few minutes?
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