FREAKAH

Hmmm..........

Maybe I should mention that i'm using 40R's on a nitro sedan(Yeah yeah I know...Electric on road forum). The 40R's grease up really quick at 140 degrees F. Maybe it's the weight of these cars and the peaky powerband of nitro engines.

BTW, the track surface is high traction but abrasive w/ small grain rocks material.

Ian

what would the general setup changes that would be need to do if i wanted lesser on power steering exitting out of a corner
TIA

Alvin

Ian: I would use less castor. E.g. 6degree -> 4degree.

Regards,
Alvin

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

FREAKAH: Ahhh, that's it. I knew something was strange. My next suggestion was going to be to inspect the car itself carefully for defects, but since I now know we are talking about a nitro car, well actually have you inspected the car for defects??? You might want to venture over to the nitro forum, I'm sure they could serve you a little better. Here's the link:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdis...p?s=&forumid=3

Fred Hubbard

racerdave

Ian,
For less on power steering, I would try a softer rear spring or oil.

Ian

but that would increase my initial turn in right???initial turn in is already good so i wouldnt want to upset that setting...would standing up the shock and put a little toe out help??

i might try this but i'm already soft on the rear...maybe i'll stiffen the front.....or would adding more droop to the front helps??

racerdave

Ian,
you are correct, adding front droop will reduce on power steering.

You may also try removing or trying a softer rollbar in the rear (if you are running one), reducing antisquat, lowering rear ride height, or leaning the rear shocks in.

Alvin

Hi Ian,
Castor setting (for me) is the fastest way to set the car's *exit response*. Yes, usually I will get more steering into the corner by adjusting the castor as such.

Standing up the shock and toe out both will give similar tendencies - more aggressive entry, but i find less steering out of the corner. But both will still affect corner entry. I usually run 0 to +0.5 toe for minimal front scrub, but varies track to track.

Possibly you could try instead of setting the car, using some exponential on the radio, or by steering less on the corner exit?

rough512

iTrader: (12)

Hi guys,

in the absence of front one ways, would a locked diff work on tight corners (i.e. 180 deg turns ).

How would you make this work? soften up the front so the the inner wheel would break traction?

Would it be better if I just leave a loose (enough not to slip) diff and slap in stiff front sway bar and let both wheels steer?

Boomer

I have been using the locked front diff for a while now (just don't ask me about last week. . . ) and it works well for all tight corners. . . better coming out than going in, but that's the benefit and what the adjustment is needed for.

You have to soften the front to get more entering steering.

The benefit is the one-way-like pull coming out of the corner.

Alvin

Hi all,
Just want to relate yesterday's race. My 2nd race on carpet. My first race about 2 months ago was a disaster. The car was very loose *on power*, and simply spins out when I corner hair pins. Needless to say it was hell to drive (dual one ways). No time to setup as I was fixing the track.

Yesterday I ran full time 4wd (thanks to the foam v rubber thread), and well the problem still remained if a tad better.

I did basic adjustments such as a changing springs (no help, just made the car less responsive), removed rear roll bar (no help) and finally I tried downstop. I ran up till 1mm of droop in the rear and that helped the problems immensely. Reducing to 0mm helped quite a bit.

Since rear downstop was one which helped alot (i.e. reduce weight transfer forward off power) I decided that my front roll centre was too low. I run a 414m so i took off some spacers off the front bulkhead's camber link, and re-adjusted the camber. Miracle! It could corner quite well, though not enough to make the a-mains

The setting was from my tarmac setup, only difference was I put it in 4wd instead of dual one ways. It seems that for the carpet I run on the side-bite is superb (imagine sorex 24R wheelspin from a dead start), and the lower roll centre up front I usually run takes up all the traction.

Now the problem I am facing is the car doesn't feel like it is on the ground. It feels like it is floating through the corners, ala a RC hovercraft. I run a 3 piston shock, and run up to 80wt oil/w blue spring to limit the body roll. This setting works great on tarmac but on carpet with softer yellow springs it ain't good. Any ideas guys?

imataquito

hahaahha my car felt like a rc hovercraft on cement !!
its ok on tarmac ...

carpet i dunno ... -yet

hm... tried changing the shock positions ???

Jimmyd

Alvin, didnt know you have such a cool toy. When can I try it on water.

Hmm now that you said it I should have tried reducing droop as well. Does the 04R allow that?

Alvin

Jimmyd: Sure, when u give me like uh 1k for damages ;-)

Yeah, the ta04 has droop screws in the rear.
I remembered that for yuan ching I always run C1 front upright on the right, for this case, should run C2 on the right (higher roll centre). The droop helps alot, but once I reach 0 droop and the car still ain't handling it's time to change the rc...

sosidge

If you can get your car to work with some droop dialled in (i.e. not with 0mm at the rear like you have now), I think you'll lose that "floating" feeling.

I'd suggest some lighter oil than the 80wt as well - although heavier damping can feel smooth on carpet, with rubber tyres I imagine you're just encouraging a permanent four wheel drift, rather than a car that actually responds to inputs.

I also try to keep the front roll-centre lower than the rear - just because of something I read once, where the lower front roll centre encourages more weight transfer to the outer front wheel on corner entry, a desirable effect in my book - I find a high front roll centre also tends to remove steering response.