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Old 08-18-2002, 12:57 AM   #241
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Yeah, I still hold our group record of 5 T-Bars in a single weekend and 3 before a single lap. . .

We were running 6-cell mod, though, 10x2's and a high gearing for them (84/13 or 14 I think) and I was just brushing against the PVC. . .
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Old 08-18-2002, 05:11 AM   #242
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hahahhaha ...... 5 t bars in 1 week ........
ok now i have 1 extra reason not to buy a pro 10
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Old 08-18-2002, 08:43 AM   #243
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Since when did "faster corner speed like a pro" thread become "whos pro10 is more fragile" thread? Anyway I am currently running a 10L2 and it has stood up to all kinds of abuse. Nothing broke or bent so far. And yes if you want faster corner speed(not just straight line speed) get a pro10.
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Old 08-18-2002, 10:52 AM   #244
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hehe get back to the topic.......



jummy how much will the pro10 cost in spore and where to get it and what kind/brand is recomended?
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Old 08-18-2002, 11:04 AM   #245
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The only one I tried is the rc10L2. Like what Boomer said you can get it online from towerhobbies or stormerhobbies at usd$155 or sgd$272. If you are really interested in one you should read the 1/10th pan car thread.

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Old 08-18-2002, 10:10 PM   #246
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yes - if you are interested, go there, it's on the Oval and Larger Scales forum, for some reason. . .
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Old 08-19-2002, 11:43 PM   #247
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been there..... nothing much ... + lazy to read all over from 1st page
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Old 08-20-2002, 12:48 PM   #248
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High Corner Speeds with a touring car- As you progress in your ability it seems that you can set up your car to have more steering traction. If I let someone faster than me drive my car, they say it doesn't have enough steering, if somenone slower drives it they say it's got too much steering. It has as much as I can tolerate. You can tolerate more steering traction as you learn to use more throttle entering and during the middle of the turn. If your car has as much steering traction as the faster guys and then you let off throttle too much you tend to loose the back end. If you turn the steering wheel too fast you can stall the car on a hign grip track. You learn to use more throttle and smooth movement of the Radios steering wheel with practice. You can cheat a little on the radio by using the speed function to slow down your maximum steering rate. This keeps the car hooked up. It is better to learn to do this by moving your wheel more slowly. You can prevent stalls when you are learning by giving the car some forward throttle with the throttle trim. I find that each corner needs a little different throttle for corner entry so its probably better to do with out this as well. The faster drivers don't pass through neutral much if at all on our track, so even if they do have forward throttle trim they are not using it.

Off throttle oversteer- alot of guys are plagued with this problem. It's mostly a matter of learning not to be off throttle much. There are some car setups that make this problem worse. Antisquat and prosquat both seem to make this problem worse in my experience. If you are tinkering with roll centers measure the front and back of the inner A-arm hinge pins and make them parallel to the bottom of the chassis.

On Power Push- Here are some things that cause onpower push. Inavertently adding some prosquat willl tighten the rear on power, this makes the car push when you get on the power. Kickup on the front makes the front suspension stiffer on power. This willl create a push if you don't have quite enough traction on the track you are running at. Reserve this for high traction surfaces.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-23-2002 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 01:05 PM   #249
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Gears-Although our spur gears don't seem to have much curve to the teeth (involute shape) the are curved near the points. Certain gears on the car certainly do show this curved shape. The pinion teeth have a definite curve which reduces friction. The teeth roll on the spur teeth without much sliding friction. As the gears wear this curve starts to dissappear, the gear starts to whine, and the car starts to slow even though you might not notice. On a Losi truck the idler gear teeth in the transmission have a definite curved shape. When you loose the shape which is easy to see with a little magnifying glass the truck or buggy gets quite slow for stock. Replace this gear often for good performance in stock.

Front to back weight transfer- Front to back weight transfer is no different than side to side weight transfer in the manner that you control it. If you want to increase the rate of lateral weight transfer to quicken the handling on a high grip track you stiffen the springs. This let's the car slide more smoothly. On a low grip track you can delay weight transfer by using softer springs. This gives your more grip in the critical corner entry phase of a turn at the expense of some responsiveness.

Stiffer Springs on the back-If you put stiffer springs on the back of a fourwheel drive vehicle you will Quicken the weight transfer to the back rather than hold weight on the front wheels. This will decrease acceleration traction on a four wheel drive. The car will have the most traction to accelerate when the tires are more evenly loaded.
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Old 08-20-2002, 02:14 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Stranahan
High Corner Speeds with a touring car- As you progress in your ability it seems that you can set up your car to have more steering traction. If I let someone faster than me drive my car, they say it doesn't have enough steering, if somenone slower drives it they say it' got too much steering. It has as much as I can tolerate. You can tolerate more steering traction as you learn to use more throttle entering and during the middle of the turn. If your car has as much steering traction as the faster guys and then you let off throttle too much you tend to loose the back end. If you turn the steering wheel too fast you can stall the car on a hign grip track. You learn to use more throttle and smooth movement of the Radios steering wheel with practice. You can cheat a little on the radio by using the speed function to slow down your maximum steering rate. This keeps the car hooked up. It is better to learn to do this by moving your wheel more slowly. You can prevent stalls when you are learning by giving the car some forward throttle with the throttle trim. I find that each corner needs a little different throttle for corner entry so its probably better to do with out this as well. The faster drivers don't pass through neutral much if at all on our track, so even if they do have forward throttle trim they are not using it.
HI John! Funny you would mention this, because I re-discovered this this summer. I can only race my TC3 in the summer (HobbyTown parking lot series), although I race offroad year around, and some oval. Last summer, I spent the whole summer fine tuning my chassis setup and finished in second place for the summer, so I felt pretty good about this year. Well... First race of the summer, I pulled the car out and thought I would be "dialed" -- WRONG! The car was the same, and the track was the same, but my 4wd driving skills were "rusty", so I had to go back to a milder setup. Now, after several weeks of racing, I'm back to that "bad" setup again! LOL!

I'll also see new racers look at a "fast guy's" setup and copy it and then wonder why they don't go "fast" too. As you pointed out, the setup must match the driver -- Heck, even in F1, they say that no one can drive Michael Schumacher's car, because he uses such an extreme setup... I guess the same principle applies to our cars!
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:05 PM   #251
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John Stranahan,
Wow that's what happening on my track The fast guys say my car doesn't have enough steering, whereas I feel my car is right there on the edge. And yeah when I drive their cars, it's twitchy as hell
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:37 PM   #252
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John: i guess thats where some people are coming from when they say "learn to run the car loose". meaning these are guys with much better throttle control and that they're able to "tolerate" more steering traction in their cars. and since they rarely let off the throttle, they're average speed around the entire track is naturally higher/faster than someone who lets of the throttle more often.

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Old 08-20-2002, 09:46 PM   #253
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now it makes me realize even more that it isnt simply going up to a fast guy at the track and copying his set up and hoping that after you do that, everything goes well and you start going faster. hence the importance to learn how to tune your car YOURSELF so that its suits your driving skill now, and will equip you to make those adjustments to your set up as you put in more practice and track time and your skill level increases .... and eventlually (or more like -- HOPEFULLY) we'll get "faster corner speed like pros" ...

... so bring on the set-up tips!
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Last edited by ROBORAT; 08-20-2002 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 08-21-2002, 12:50 AM   #254
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agreed
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Old 08-21-2002, 05:30 AM   #255
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So here is how I set up the steering. Softer front springs (top of the shocks further inward) or stiffer rear springs give you relatively more steering traction. In a race, if I break the rear end loose in a corner a couple of times, I have too much steering for me. The problem is usually turning the steering wheel a little too fast, but breaking the rear loose is very disruptive to your lap time. I take out just a tad of steering for the next heat. Now I can better drive the car at the limit of traction in the corners. All I have to do is watch my line. If I am going wide, less throttle. If I am getting too close to the corner marker more throttle . When I break the car loose now it goes into a fourwheel drift which is much easier to get pointed right than when you loose the back end.
I try not to break it loose at all.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-22-2002 at 10:34 AM.
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