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Old 09-02-2004, 04:47 PM   #16
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I agree with everyone else.
You HAVE to get the Deans battery jig. It's a must if you want a nice tight pack. Deans solder is awesome. I contacted the main marketing dude @ Deans to see if they sold 1lb. batches of their solder but he said no. But what he did say is that, that sounded like something he could research. There just needs to be a market for it. So maybe we can start bugg'n 'em. I also use a different brand that I REALLY like- KESTER- real nice product & it's thin (.031in./.079cm.) Some guys use SHOEGOO between their batts to help hold the pack together but I find this to be kinda sloppy. It's a good idea though so what I do instead is after I'm done assembling my pack, I pull it out of the Deans jig and I put 1 drop of CA glue in-between the batts on both sides. WORKS EXCELLENT & you can't tell anythings there. And it doesn't harm your batts cover. Last but not least, make sure that the polarity of your batts MATCH the way your wires are. (left/right & front/back)

- jaybee
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Old 09-02-2004, 04:54 PM   #17
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thanks for all the info guys..i will make them up this weekend (when i have plenty of time, so i don't rush them )

i will let you know what they turn out like.

thanks again
Matt
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Old 09-02-2004, 04:59 PM   #18
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a couple packs...
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:00 PM   #19
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last one...
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:01 PM   #20
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thats another question, how much solder do i actually use?

just enough to cover the ends of the battery bars?

as jaybee doesn't seem to have used very much at all
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:13 PM   #21
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raving-monkey
the trick is this... after you scuff up the ends of your batts, put a pencil eraser size drop of solder on the batts ends. Then when you have your bars on the batts, you only need to apply a small bit of solder (about 1/4-1/2" in length). The reason why you don't need to apply so much in the end is because you already have solder between the batt and the bar. My rule of thumb is once the solder starts to flow above the + & - cutouts on the bars--STOP! And if you apply enough solder in the beginning before you put the bars on, you won't need ANY solder, just heat With capillary action, solder flows where there is heat and flux.

- Jaybee..... hopefully this is helpful
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:17 PM   #22
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Here is a good on-line guide:

How to build your own battery packs

I agree with everyone else...get a Deans jig and a good hot soldering iron with at least 60w of power and a flat chisel tip. Trying to build batteries with anything else will cause all kinds of problems.
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:17 PM   #23
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okie doke..thanks jaybee..and the rest of you.
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:21 PM   #24
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raving-monkey, I edited my post above

- jaybee
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:03 AM   #25
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Can I create a battery pack in stick type form? If yes, how?
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:28 AM   #26
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Go to www.rccars.com, and find "Big Jim's Motor Forum", scroll down to the thread that says "Everything about Soldering Irons, Solder and Flux". This is an excellent guide on proper soldering technique.

You must use flux, you must have a hot iron and a wide chisel type tip. The Deans jig will make your life much easier.

Good luck.
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:02 AM   #27
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Here's another instrucion in building packs: http://www.balakracing.com/buildingbatterypacks.htm
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:06 AM   #28
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u beat me to it cole-balak racing's how to is good
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:05 PM   #29
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hey guys. solder fumes are known harmful in the state of california. you know what that means
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
hey guys. solder fumes are known harmful in the state of california. you know what that means
That all California racers should start using Dean's connectors???
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