koabich

(Spur Gear/Pinion)2.5

kgonder1969

I am using plastic parts like what came with the car. Is the graphite parts better? I was going to put the aluminum upgrade parts on and was told that if I did, then the other parts would break and be harder to change and more expensive. Like I said, I am fairly new to rc and would appreciate any suggestions without sarcasm please.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Front arms, front end parts, hubs, caster blocks... these are the things that will break on you... and ball caps, if you pop off, then you should replace them. I'm assuming that you are getting into racing, if so you may want to check out http://www.virtualrc.com, this is good why to get time, with out breaking stuff. There is no substitute for time on the track, but this SIMM will help you...

bukil

iTrader: (39)

Oh. So It doesn't matter whether it's a 48 or 64 pitch. Thank you. Anyone here who could share some tips on freeing up the drive train?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Nope...other than don't try to mix-n-match 'em. The math's the same process but with the different numbers. It's also a pretty easy process (mathematically speaking) to figure conversions between the two of them as well. Example... you were running 48-pitch gears, a 25-tooth pinion against a 72-tooth spur. You ruin your last spur and all they have is a 96-tooth(which is, functionally, the same spur gear) 64-pitch spur left to buy. How to find what pinion to buy with it? Easy. 25/72 = X/96...25 times 96 divided by 72 equals X (the number of teeth on the pinion you need) which is, in this case, 33.33 teeth. Round down to 33 teeth, buy a 33 and a 34 and you're off to the races. Even works for "non-equivalent" spurs...say it was only a 100-tooth that was available. 25/72 = X/100...25 times 100 divided by 72 gives 34.72. Round up to a 35-tooth pinion and yer golden.

Oh...and how do I know that the 48-pitch 72-tooth spur and the 64-pitch 96-tooth spur are functional equivalents? Well...48/72 = 64/96...48 times 96 divided by 72 equals...yup, 64. And you thought algebra was a waste of time

Scottrik

DRAG_ON

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/as.../p5500tc4.html
any one of you try this chasis yet ????

bummy

hey, i like that i might get it, if people give it good, review cause of the paypal.

Ultraspeed84

iTrader: (45)

im very proud of my american made fttc4 it was super fast tonight on carpet oval. I orderd me a rdx though to try out the diffrence. This car here though never broke till tonight either i just got into touring and hit alot with it brok a caster block first day and replaced it and two weeks later and 100 packs after that I broke a rear a arm only because of its abuse of early action other then that the car is still consistant and the driver is now fast as well didnt take me long to get pretty fast and consistant only about 60 batteries. ran about 6 to 8 packs a night and 2 in the day for 2 weeks prolly had it longer not sure but alot of practice now im down to 3.0 laps and alot.

DRAG_ON

yes, please do some review, if anyone already used this chasis please share some information in this forum. looking at the bat location can be modified it might help to balance the weight transfer from each side (left or right)

kgonder1969

Thank you for the information on the rc sims site. I will check it out when I have free time. But in the mean time you weren't clear on what is better "plastic or Graphite parts.

ford_racing

iTrader: (6)

Plastic is more forgiving but has more flex
Graphite is stronger but more fragile

There is no correct answer to what is a better part, if you are starting out Plastic would probably be better as it shouldn't break as often but once you get better then graphite is the way to go as it has more control over the wheels and you are able to better control your car

hope this helps

ZER01

Hey TC4 owners, with the new silver long ball stud(forgot the technical name)you can eliminate alot of play out of the ball stud & cup by using team associated's red o-ring under them without sacrificing any movement. This works great on the steering.

BTW, anyone got the technical name on the new ball stud. I believe it starts with a "b" but I won't know untill I get home from work.

brandonw

also, if you use the RPM ball cups they are alot closer tollerence than the associatied and they last longer too.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

i believe the term you are seeking is "broached"

ZER01

AM03GT, that's it. I actually just remembered to get online and the word breached came to mind-ooops Also, for the black studs, I custom cut fuel tubing to the right thickness to achieve the same effect-you gotta have a fine eye and steady hand.

For those unclear about this subject, using a red o-ring with the older shorter neck black ball studs isn't possible without creating binding between the ballcup and stud..