Team Associated TC4
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Well, no matter how much lead I add, I can't seem to get below 1480... lol. I have a DC4 CF chassis car that weighs in @ 1388... no lead.
Yodog conversion, titanium screws, tc7 arms, tamiya shocks. I can get to 1300g with a 6200 orca battery, or 1256g with a LCG 5200 pack.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Hey Pat, do the TC7 arms fit with the stock pins or did you have to do something creative? I thought the new arm hinge pins were metric.
I used cut down VBC D06 pins that I had laying around, I just cut them the same length as the TC4 ones. I used Tamiya pivot balls (cause I had them). The old style TC4 suspension blocks (the shorter ones) hold the Tamiya balls really well. I have since drilled a set of TC4 ones to 3mm. (Don't ask how I paid a machinist friend in beer to do it). Really it doesn't change the car much, the TC4 and TC7 are really close on geometry. It just makes it easier to install DCJ's. If I could have got a set of the Losi ones I would have just done that.
It is fun taking it to the track and having guys having to ask what it is....LOL
It is fun taking it to the track and having guys having to ask what it is....LOL
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I used cut down VBC D06 pins that I had laying around, I just cut them the same length as the TC4 ones. I used Tamiya pivot balls (cause I had them). The old style TC4 suspension blocks (the shorter ones) hold the Tamiya balls really well. I have since drilled a set of TC4 ones to 3mm. (Don't ask how I paid a machinist friend in beer to do it). Really it doesn't change the car much, the TC4 and TC7 are really close on geometry. It just makes it easier to install DCJ's. If I could have got a set of the Losi ones I would have just done that.
It is fun taking it to the track and having guys having to ask what it is....LOL
It is fun taking it to the track and having guys having to ask what it is....LOL
Like your roll bar conversion. I'm thinking of doing something similar but makin the sway bar bearing mounted just to fit into the new fad.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I do one offs or Frankensteins all the time, in rc computers and real cars. It's fun to be different. Have the fun is figuring out how to make stuff work.
Like your roll bar conversion. I'm thinking of doing something similar but makin the sway bar bearing mounted just to fit into the new fad.
Like your roll bar conversion. I'm thinking of doing something similar but makin the sway bar bearing mounted just to fit into the new fad.
Tech Initiate
Hey guys, I need some help.
I bought a TC4 from a guy from an RC BST group on Facebook.
Well, I finally received it today and got my brushless system put into it and all setup.
I get it outside and it's pulling to the left, no it is not the steering, steering is perfectly centered. It has a locked front diff I am not so sure I like...actually I don't like it. But I cannot seem to figure out why it's pulling to the left as soon as I get on the throttle.
Any ideas?
I bought a TC4 from a guy from an RC BST group on Facebook.
Well, I finally received it today and got my brushless system put into it and all setup.
I get it outside and it's pulling to the left, no it is not the steering, steering is perfectly centered. It has a locked front diff I am not so sure I like...actually I don't like it. But I cannot seem to figure out why it's pulling to the left as soon as I get on the throttle.
Any ideas?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Take the wheels and drive hexes off and check for a broken pin. If that isn't it, check the half shafts. One of those might have a broken pin. If that isn't it, check the diff and/or check for bind in the bearings.
Tech Initiate
The rear diff was good with no resistance at all.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Does it only happen under hard acceleration? If you're at a constant speed, does it still pull? It could be uneven weight distribution, tweak, suspension or drivetrain binding or anything NutDriver has already covered.
Tech Initiate
Well, when I get less than a quarter onto the throttle, I noticed the front left tire would come up off the ground a little. Can't even get going without losing complete control. Weight Dis is pretty well balanced.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Have you checked for chassis tweak, spring preload and droop settings? If your front left tire is coming up, your rear right shock could be bottoming out too easily, or your front droop could be set wrong.
Tech Initiate
Is that while accelerating quickly, or building up speed slowly?
Have you checked for chassis tweak, spring preload and droop settings? If your front left tire is coming up, your rear right shock could be bottoming out too easily, or your front droop could be set wrong.
Have you checked for chassis tweak, spring preload and droop settings? If your front left tire is coming up, your rear right shock could be bottoming out too easily, or your front droop could be set wrong.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
If you hold the spur while also holding one of the "rear" wheels, the other "rear" wheel should not spin freely by hand. What should happen normally is... if you hold 1 wheel and give slight throttle, the other wheel should spin under power. This is how a differential works. You can also hold the other wheel and do the same slight throttle and the free wheel should now spin. If not, your diff is too loose or damaged.
If the suspension is set correctly, none of the wheels should lift off the ground.
Do us a favor and set your car on a table and take a close picture from the front and rear of the car showing how the suspension is set. A picture is worth a thousand words.