SeeGee911

iTrader: (1)

I'm putting together a ft tc4, and I have a problem with a bad vibration in the center driveshaft. It's vibrating enough to hit the vertical plate next to it at medium throttle, and makes an awful racket. The shafts holding the diff pinion and drive cups are quite stable, so my problem is isolated to the shaft itself... It is a new shaft, and seems to be perfectly straight. Any ideas?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Well Seegee that's a common problem with the aluminum driveshaft.... If your driveshaft can't move back and forth two to three millimeters in the cups, then it will wobble more, but you really need a niftech titanium driveshaft for mod motors, or you can try ewhippler's carbon shaft.....

moparSRT

WRONG

You either have some binding or something is bent/wore out.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I am correct !!! If your motor is more powerful than a 10.5t at 2s ,then the aluminum driveshaft will wobble when you punch it: it's a fact period... I am sure all your input cups are tight and turn true, just like mine did in 2005 when I first realized that problem... It's physics, and that' s why the Awesomatix car comes with a driveshaft center brace !!! The tc4 should have gotten a center brace too or a stiffer hollow shaft.....

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

SeeGee, you stated that you are putting together a FT TC4.

Due to the design of the FT TC4 chassis, you will need to cut off the top half of the inner servo mount (mount closest to drive shaft) to prevent it from rubbing the drive shaft. If you don't have a copy of the manual, you can download it directly from Team Associated's website. The instructions for mounting the servo are on page 18 of the manual.

The FTTC4 is the only Team Associated version of the TC4 that you will have to modify the inner servo mount for drive shaft clearance.

There can be a bit of movement with the shaft due to slop (in bearings/drive cups), but normally not enough to rub on the servo mounts. The only exception I've personally experienced is running very fast motors, which caused the drive shaft to oscilate. If you are going to be running your TC3 faster than 50mph, then you might consider buying aftermarket drive shaft. If you can find a Niftech titanium drive shaft, it is worth the money. However, a stock graphite TC3 drive shaft will be lighter.

ColeGartner

iTrader: (2)

I have a TC4 on the way and I am going to convert it to rally. i have everything figured out except for the wheels. The body I plan on using is the Tamiya Lancer Evo VII. I am having trouble locating the proper wheels as seen here: tamiya.com/english/products/58286lancer7/lancer7_rear.jpg

(Add the http and www as I am not allowed to post links yet)

If you know where to find those that would be great. Also, what would be a good offset to match the body?

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

Tires are Tamiya Rally Blocks - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGG35&P=7

Wheels are Tamiya 5-spoke - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXABZM&P=SM

ColeGartner

iTrader: (2)

Those are 24mm wheels and 26mm tires though, wouldn't they not fit?

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

Doh, really? You may have to find that Lancer kit's manual and look for the part numbers.

Robking11

iTrader: (3)

WHAT nice

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

Is there a company that makes a 48 pitch spur gear with less than 66 teeth?

I raced at a large outdoor track today with about a 140-150 ft. straightaway. When I put in my 17.5 motor with a 31 tooth pinion it was too slow. I grinded my chassis hoping to fit a 45 tooth pinion, but it would not fit. I was able to get a 36 tooth pinion to fit, but the car is way too too slow.... Is there another option as to gearing...maybe installing another type of pitch... if so what would be a direct fit?

As a result of this I installed a 5.5 turn motor and used a 36 tooth pinion with a 66 tooth spur. The car was very very fast..... The problem that I had was heat. The motor temperature was at 162 and the car would stop after four minutes unless I was very very careful... I was not running a fan and want to get one. I have no clue as to what to get, but like the idea of a motor fan that has a circular mounting system that goes over the motor... I want a very dependable system that won't come undone.. Any suggestions... I looked at the Castle system, but guys said the fan blades break... FYI I am now running a Hobbywing Justock and the max motor for that esc is a 8.5 turn motor. I would like to use my 17.5 and gear appropriately, but am open to other options.... Lastly, any recommedations for cleaning and using tire additives for an outdoor asphalt track. I am using rubber slicks.......... FYI I was amazed at how a $85 car handled... Purchased a good used roller...with blue springs... I had a big smile on my face.... Still got my butt kicked by experienced racers with xrays and tc 6.1 etc.. but they were better drivers for sure.... I could see myself beating some of them in the near future...

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

I have a Robinson Racing 55T spur in mine. With a 37T pinion I end up at about 3.7 FDR.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYGN4&P=7

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

Is this a direct bolt on?

I see they also make a 49 and 52 as well.....

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

Yes.

SeeGee911

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:
I looked into it more, and decided to get new drive cups. After comparing the new to the old ones, I realized that they are not the same. I bought this chassis used, and it seems that the original owner was a little challenged with this chassis. Many things were assembled incorrectly and stripped screws everywhere. The brace that holds the bearing near the rear drive cup was upside down (when I got it, not after I rebuilt it) and he ran it that way.
Anyhow, the drive cups were bigger than the intended cups for the tc4. Reassembled, and everything seems to be working. I still get a minute vibration on the shaft, but not enough to worry about.