Team Associated TC4
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
The reason it could change gear mesh is that you have two things - spur and pinion - which are connected to separate pieces.
spur is locked to the center of the car and pinion is locked to the motor which is locked to the "wing"
When you take away the bracing that keeps the "wing" rigid to the center of the car, you allow it to flex which can change the distance between the pinion (locked to the "wing") and the spur, which means the mesh changes. . .
Springs aren't expensive and are a great tuning option. I would buy them before I cut away structure. . .
spur is locked to the center of the car and pinion is locked to the motor which is locked to the "wing"
When you take away the bracing that keeps the "wing" rigid to the center of the car, you allow it to flex which can change the distance between the pinion (locked to the "wing") and the spur, which means the mesh changes. . .
Springs aren't expensive and are a great tuning option. I would buy them before I cut away structure. . .
the distance between them is locked by the motor mount. what changes is the position of the pinion on the spur. ex- the spur is like .3in wide and the pinion is like .25in wide, and with the pinion centered on the spur the flex causes the pinion to go from edge to edge on the spur, but the distance from spur center and motor center doesnt change
Matt
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
can anybody give me a comprehensive explanation of the difference between the kits? maybe even just a link to something?
as far as i know, the hierarchy goes:
factory team > team > racer/rtr(recently re-released as "club racer")
as far as i know, the hierarchy goes:
factory team > team > racer/rtr(recently re-released as "club racer")
Thought it was factory team > team/racer/rtr(recently re-released as "club racer")
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
I thought the Racer kit was an RTR without the electrics. Plastic shocks, plastic cvds, etc
The Team kit an upgraded version of that with the blue cvds and threaded shocks.
The Factory Team a further upgraded version, with the CF chassis and full blue hardware.
I may be way off base here too lol
Tech Regular
The Factory Team version (discontinued long ago, unique parts hard to come by) had a double decker carbon fiber chassis with several different parts that didn't fit the plastic tub version. The only TC4 versions they're currently selling are the Club Racer and the RTR. They may have sold a "Team" version at some point in the past, but I can't find evidence of it on Associated's website. They do use the "Team" or "Factory Team" words on several of their aluminum hop-up parts, which may be causing some of the confusion.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
AE Part #30010
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
this is a ft tc4
The Ft kit is discontinued, but they are so cheap on ebay, why buy any of those superexpensive new kits ? With the right setup you can be faster than anybody else out there....
Tech Regular
My old TC4FT box lists the part number as 30102, so I'm not sure what a 30010 is. Anyway, the major differences between the plastic tub versio and the FT are the carbon fiber chassis, the motor mount, and the 4 aluminum corner pieces where the upper camber links attach. Whichever version you're looking at, the suspension parts are all the same, and if it's an FT model the unique aluminum parts wil probably never break. The biggest drawback to the FT model was getting at the motor mount screws to adjust gear mesh. Needs a long wrench with a ball on the end.
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Yes there was originally a TC4 Team Kit
There was never a full "FT" version of the tub Chassis but before the double-deck version came out a Team Kit with all the "FT" upgrades was considered an FT TC4...
Then came the RTR
Then the FT TC4 with double deck chassis with the top deck having the option for the 4 vertical stiffner posts.
Then there was a FT TC4 Asphalt Chassis/Top Deck/Center brace set which featured thinner carbon, thinner top deck without the 4 post locations and an "X" shaped center brace instead of the full rectangle...
And lately we have the reincarnation of the kit in the TC4 Club Racer.
There was never a full "FT" version of the tub Chassis but before the double-deck version came out a Team Kit with all the "FT" upgrades was considered an FT TC4...
Then came the RTR
Then the FT TC4 with double deck chassis with the top deck having the option for the 4 vertical stiffner posts.
Then there was a FT TC4 Asphalt Chassis/Top Deck/Center brace set which featured thinner carbon, thinner top deck without the 4 post locations and an "X" shaped center brace instead of the full rectangle...
And lately we have the reincarnation of the kit in the TC4 Club Racer.
Looking for some help with gearing. I'm about to order a club racer and I need to know what spur I should order for 17.5 blinky class. I've read through the last 100 pages or so and there does not seem to be any consenisus, so I thought I'd ask anyway.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
I don't race 17.5 blinky so I don't know. However, I did race my TC4 in 25.5 VTA. But given the default gear is 48P tooth, I found it difficult to find the right spur/pinion combo that actually fit. So what I did was switch to a 12th scale 64P Spur gear and that gave me more options to get the right FDR and gearing to phsyically fit on the TC4.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Robinson makes easily AVAILABLE 48p spur gears to gear any motor out there !!! They have 49T/55T/60T etc...... As far as the Team kit is concerned , no tub tc4 came with a ft upper deck ! The ft Team upper deck does not fit any tub tc4 chassis.....
While I appreciate the quick responses, neither answer my question as I know 64p spurs will fit, but I plan on running 48p due to the fact that I have "larger" 48p pinions. Also I am aware of the sizes of spurs available, I was rather asking what a good starting point for 48p, 17.5 blinky would be? (or even a high middle and low sizes to get to start out in order to get me in the ballpark of what will ultimately work best for me)
Tech Regular
Robinson 60T 48 pitch spur (part #1860) will get you a range of about 5.17 to 3.33 FDR. Depending on your track size and motor, you will probably want to be between 3.5-4.2 FDR for 17.5 blinky. If the track is huge, you might want to get a 55T spur (#1855) also, but I've never needed it yet.