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Team Associated TC4

Old 01-11-2015, 08:57 PM
  #13336  
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The tc4 and the Ntc3 use the same length CVD's..... I also use the losi lcd's (losa3344) in my Ntc3(front only).......
Originally Posted by gooba
Im guessing your trying to run spec tires? I don't believe the cvds are interchangeable between the nitro and electric car as the arms are different lengths and the nitro car has a pillowball style suspension. there are a few companies that make wide offset hexes if you've got enough axle you can run a 6mm hex and get out to 200mm
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:03 AM
  #13337  
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Originally Posted by edonsohc
can anyone tell me what degree the stock c-hubs that come on the club racer?
"O"
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:06 PM
  #13338  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
The tc4 and the Ntc3 use the same length CVD's..... I also use the losi lcd's (losa3344) in my Ntc3(front only).......
I was going to post the same thing, but Bert beat me to it. The length of the CVDs on the TC3/TC4/NTC3 are all the same (dog bones + stub axles). The only exception is if you are using 200mm dog bones on a TC3, you will have to use 200mm a-arms for that to work.

The difference between the TC3/TC4 and NTC3 is that outdrives on the diff halves are longer on the NTC3. Even though the NTC3 is 200mm wide, the combination of different suspension and longer diff outdrives means that same cvds work.

It would be possible to use the NTC3 diffs in an electric TC3/TC4, but you would have to use a shorter cvd (or at least shorter dog bones) for it to work. There wouldn't be any real advantage to this (that I know of). Also since the NTC3 diff/outdrives are steel, it would be heavier than even the steel TC3/TC4 parts.

Hope this info helps.

----------

Edit: NTC3 ATD Diff
I forgot that Associated made an ATD diff for the NTC3 AE#2333 (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2333/), which is an option part of the car

This version of the diff comes with a small friction pad that sits in the middle of the diff ring gear. I'm not sure what extra tuning options this would give you. There is very little info out there on this part since the NTC3 is so old. I suppose it helps to keep the diff from slipping since the NTC3 is a heavier car or it was to handle more torque than a brushed motor.

I think I have one of these diffs my TC3-O(ffroad) car. I will have to see if I can use the friction pad/ring gear to make a better slipper spool for my TC4

Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 01-12-2015 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:13 PM
  #13339  
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In the club racer 4 degree caster blocks.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:49 PM
  #13340  
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Originally Posted by tmail55
Mod TC from last Sat (12/27/14)

http://www.t3t4webservice.com/tc4-Terrance.pdf

TC4 build history >>> http://www.rcten.com/threads/terrances-tc4.12624/

===

IF you race VTA don't do the B3 axles on the rear.
Terrance, just wanted to say thanks for posting your setup. I copied most of the setup, and the car drove much better, and wasn't as twitchy / wandery going it a straight line. Car was more controllable and predictable. I did... traction roll 3 times during the race, on asphalt. But my brand new tires had been softened way too much... but man they stuck well up to the point the car flipped.

I ran softer springs/shocks to work better with VTA tires, ran the front shocks on the upper outmost spot so it'll steer quicker, 1* toe out front for more turn-in, and I didn't have the shorty ballstuds.

Today I installed the shorty ballstuds and some new RPM ends to tighen things up. Can't wait to race on Sunday. Noticed that the suspension gains 0.5* negative camber from normal ride height to fully compressed, good idea.

I do have a question. With 5.5 mm ride height up front, are you really running 6mm of front droop, or does that translate to 6 - 5.5 = 0.5mm front droop? Same question on what rear droop you're running? I did 1.5mm front droop and 2.0mm rear droop.

Thanks again, made the car so much better to drive.

-Brad
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:55 PM
  #13341  
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Originally Posted by RotorTruck
Terrance, just wanted to say thanks for posting your setup. I copied most of the setup, and the car drove much better, and wasn't as twitchy / wandery going it a straight line. Car was more controllable and predictable. I did... traction roll 3 times during the race, on asphalt. But my brand new tires had been softened way too much... but man they stuck well up to the point the car flipped.

I ran softer springs/shocks to work better with VTA tires, ran the front shocks on the upper outmost spot so it'll steer quicker, 1* toe out front for more turn-in, and I didn't have the shorty ballstuds.

Today I installed the shorty ballstuds and some new RPM ends to tighen things up. Can't wait to race on Sunday. Noticed that the suspension gains 0.5* negative camber from normal ride height to fully compressed, good idea.

I do have a question. With 5.5 mm ride height up front, are you really running 6mm of front droop, or does that translate to 6 - 5.5 = 0.5mm front droop? Same question on what rear droop you're running? I did 1.5mm front droop and 2.0mm rear droop.

Thanks again, made the car so much better to drive.

-Brad
Your welcome!!

Manual droop is 6 front and 4 rear, I use 5 rear with sliver springs (sealed asphalt) and 4 with blue springs (orange soda treated parking lot).

5.5 front RH for a bit more steering.

The a-arm mounts are spaced per manual. Except the rear "O" in place of "X" with a spacer to equal the depth of the "X".
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:41 PM
  #13342  
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Quick race report for you guys. I got a hold of some foam tires for my car and went mod racing over the weekend. I won my first two qualifiers and got 2nd in my third thanks to a slipping diff but come time for the main I was told I had to change tires and run rubber even though our track does not have a tire rule(I checked before hand) but apparently a couple guys(read 1) didn't like getting out handled. I switched back to rubber and adjusted my setup and managed 3rd overall. I was super stoked though This car was built for foams and my car came ALIVE with them. If I find rubber that will hook as hard as foam ill be dangerous
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:01 PM
  #13343  
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The rubber tires that weigh close to foams, and hook up the same are the Sorex JB rubber tires, either 28 shore or 32shore... They can weigh as much as 38grams less than other brands of tires, and the tc4 loves them... They are a little more expensive than the other brands though...
Originally Posted by gooba
Quick race report for you guys. I got a hold of some foam tires for my car and went mod racing over the weekend. I won my first two qualifiers and got 2nd in my third thanks to a slipping diff but come time for the main I was told I had to change tires and run rubber even though our track does not have a tire rule(I checked before hand) but apparently a couple guys(read 1) didn't like getting out handled. I switched back to rubber and adjusted my setup and managed 3rd overall. I was super stoked though This car was built for foams and my car came ALIVE with them. If I find rubber that will hook as hard as foam ill be dangerous
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:44 PM
  #13344  
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I run sorex or sweep tires when I run mod and while they are good tires thru the corners planting big power from a standtill or out of a lowspeed corner foam cant be beat
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Old 01-13-2015, 11:37 PM
  #13345  
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I agree that trued foam tires can't be beat, but the Sorex jb tires are a close second...I only use the Sorex with jb inserts though... I don't know if Sorex plans to make a carbon rim rubber tire to further lighten their tires, but that would be the next step forward: that could probably take off another few grams on each wheel, and increase performance...
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:55 AM
  #13346  
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Originally Posted by gooba
Quick race report for you guys. I got a hold of some foam tires for my car and went mod racing over the weekend. I won my first two qualifiers and got 2nd in my third thanks to a slipping diff but come time for the main I was told I had to change tires and run rubber even though our track does not have a tire rule(I checked before hand) but apparently a couple guys(read 1) didn't like getting out handled. I switched back to rubber and adjusted my setup and managed 3rd overall. I was super stoked though This car was built for foams and my car came ALIVE with them. If I find rubber that will hook as hard as foam ill be dangerous
You knew they meant rubber tires only before you did that. You tried to be sneaky. Racing foams against rubber is like bringing a chaingun to a pistol duel, you nearly can't lose.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:19 AM
  #13347  
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Hey guys. I just got a TC4 in a trade. I was just sitting here going through it and looking at stuff. It definitely needs some TLC. Because touring car is new to me, is it normal for the front diff to be tight or locked down?
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kc8qpu
Hey guys. I just got a TC4 in a trade. I was just sitting here going through it and looking at stuff. It definitely needs some TLC. Because touring car is new to me, is it normal for the front diff to be tight or locked down?
It might have a solid spool in front. Open up the diff case to be sure.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:32 AM
  #13349  
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Originally Posted by kc8qpu
Hey guys. I just got a TC4 in a trade. I was just sitting here going through it and looking at stuff. It definitely needs some TLC. Because touring car is new to me, is it normal for the front diff to be tight or locked down?
Is it a diff or a spool? Stock TC4 club racer comes with a spool front.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:23 AM
  #13350  
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Not sure. Just assumed it was a diff.
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