Team Associated TC4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
A couple of questions??
I have a TC3 with the IRS graphite conversion for VTA. Is there any advantage in using the TC4 shock mounts and chassis braces, I already have them in carbon???? If I do this do I have a TC3.4 LOL!!!
I have no difficulty balancing my TC3 or TC4 side to side, is there an ideal front/rear weight, right now both TC3 and 4 are 48% front and 52% rear.
I have a TC3 with the IRS graphite conversion for VTA. Is there any advantage in using the TC4 shock mounts and chassis braces, I already have them in carbon???? If I do this do I have a TC3.4 LOL!!!
I have no difficulty balancing my TC3 or TC4 side to side, is there an ideal front/rear weight, right now both TC3 and 4 are 48% front and 52% rear.
Balance wise if you're at 48 front and 52 rear you're doing pretty good. The right rear is the heavy spot, and to get that offset and evened out is the trick.
I've done a lot of reading and got very confused. I need TC4 specific help with traction roll on carpet and carrying more speed through the turns.
The whole tc4 thread is dedicated to stopping traction roll, specially the tips on page 832....
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Big thanks everyone Had a great day racing and almost won TC but Had a wheel come off but with quicking thinking Pit crew got the wheel back on with only 2 laps lost
The car is way better and Big thanks to ANR211 and Martin for the Suggestions including adding more droop soooo wild to have the car lean but not roll over
Bert Tried 3mm of washers on the upper and was quite a bit better. Ended up removing a bit from the rear back to 2mm but the car was awesome
The car is way better and Big thanks to ANR211 and Martin for the Suggestions including adding more droop soooo wild to have the car lean but not roll over
Bert Tried 3mm of washers on the upper and was quite a bit better. Ended up removing a bit from the rear back to 2mm but the car was awesome
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Big thanks everyone Had a great day racing and almost won TC but Had a wheel come off but with quicking thinking Pit crew got the wheel back on with only 2 laps lost
The car is way better and Big thanks to ANR211 and Martin for the Suggestions including adding more droop soooo wild to have the car lean but not roll over
Bert Tried 3mm of washers on the upper and was quite a bit better. Ended up removing a bit from the rear back to 2mm but the car was awesome
The car is way better and Big thanks to ANR211 and Martin for the Suggestions including adding more droop soooo wild to have the car lean but not roll over
Bert Tried 3mm of washers on the upper and was quite a bit better. Ended up removing a bit from the rear back to 2mm but the car was awesome
Great Jason !!! Please post your final setup, lots of us will be grateful !!! Thanks....
PS: I use blue loctite on all my wheel nuts after also losing wheels in qualifiers....
PS: I use blue loctite on all my wheel nuts after also losing wheels in qualifiers....
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
The Wheel nut was my fault. I was widening the front to match the rear and I was interrupted and the left side was let just finger tight
lol it was funny but the one guy who saw my nut fall off started running for the car as my buddy was putting the tire back on finger tight it lasted the rest of the race
I will put my final setup once I clean the car and get it ready for the big race this weekend.
Going to the Minnesota Onroad Champs in Duluth MN. Something close to 175 entries
lol it was funny but the one guy who saw my nut fall off started running for the car as my buddy was putting the tire back on finger tight it lasted the rest of the race
I will put my final setup once I clean the car and get it ready for the big race this weekend.
Going to the Minnesota Onroad Champs in Duluth MN. Something close to 175 entries
Tech Apprentice
thanks for your input Jason on your setup, looking forward to seeing your final setup posted here.
Has anyone got any insight on how to tighten up the front end ? I find there is a little too much loose with the front wheels and steering. Are there any stock parts that need to be changed out to improve this?
Note: I am using TC3 cvd's up front and all the rest is stock except for plastic drag link replaced with alu turnbuckle and a kimbourough servo saver.
Has anyone got any insight on how to tighten up the front end ? I find there is a little too much loose with the front wheels and steering. Are there any stock parts that need to be changed out to improve this?
Note: I am using TC3 cvd's up front and all the rest is stock except for plastic drag link replaced with alu turnbuckle and a kimbourough servo saver.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Look at the rack first. Check bearings and shim for play. should be about a thou play up and down check ball studs everywhere any play replace and check the c-hub where it mounts to the arm I use 0.1 mm shims (or e-clips) to take out any play
With cvd's up front, you'll need a ball diff , not a spool, or else everything will rattle endlessly... After that, you can shim everything tight once and for all...
thanks for your input Jason on your setup, looking forward to seeing your final setup posted here.
Has anyone got any insight on how to tighten up the front end ? I find there is a little too much loose with the front wheels and steering. Are there any stock parts that need to be changed out to improve this?
Note: I am using TC3 cvd's up front and all the rest is stock except for plastic drag link replaced with alu turnbuckle and a kimbourough servo saver.
Has anyone got any insight on how to tighten up the front end ? I find there is a little too much loose with the front wheels and steering. Are there any stock parts that need to be changed out to improve this?
Note: I am using TC3 cvd's up front and all the rest is stock except for plastic drag link replaced with alu turnbuckle and a kimbourough servo saver.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
My Setup on the FTTC4 carbon chassis
Ran great Just with the Slipper front diff setup I'm destroying CVD's like mad
Going back to a tight diff for the big race this weekend
http://my.tbaytel.net/jdeadman/1.pdf
Opps the pdf was too big lol Click the link
Ran great Just with the Slipper front diff setup I'm destroying CVD's like mad
Going back to a tight diff for the big race this weekend
http://my.tbaytel.net/jdeadman/1.pdf
Opps the pdf was too big lol Click the link
Last edited by jdeadman; 03-17-2014 at 10:51 AM.
Tech Apprentice
I did break a steering rack and just put a new one this weekend, so it should be tight.
thanks for the tip on the c-hub shim!
Tech Apprentice
The play i see is back and forth and a little up and down in the outdrives.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Due to the High steering angle even the tc4 HD CVD's get blown out easily due to the extreme forces and the light duty Aluminum.
The Solid front axle is really hard on these parts and the only way to make the front end last longer is the use of the Losi Double jointed axles. but those are getting really hard to find
The Solid front axle is really hard on these parts and the only way to make the front end last longer is the use of the Losi Double jointed axles. but those are getting really hard to find
Tech Apprentice
Due to the High steering angle even the tc4 HD CVD's get blown out easily due to the extreme forces and the light duty Aluminum.
The Solid front axle is really hard on these parts and the only way to make the front end last longer is the use of the Losi Double jointed axles. but those are getting really hard to find
The Solid front axle is really hard on these parts and the only way to make the front end last longer is the use of the Losi Double jointed axles. but those are getting really hard to find
I heard of the Losi part, a common part would be better for long term.