Team Associated TC4
Jdeadman, it's not the price of the pad that makes it expensive, it's the priceless time that it takes to keep it working correctly, and endless doubt that comes with such a mod..... On the other hand, the spool is a set it and forget it affair, and you only pay attention to your body&bumper when you hit hard... Voila !!!! Simple and the best solution here !!! No more funny stuff while braking either after only two meets, let alone seven years....
I also run 17.5t blinky buddy not VTA(not really a serious class on the WEST COAST)....lol...
I also run 17.5t blinky buddy not VTA(not really a serious class on the WEST COAST)....lol...
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
If you dremel out the webbing on the corners there is lots of room
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Meh you say tomato I say tomato
Ronald Volker says spool(not slipper spool), so you should say spool too....lol.... Don't listen to Bert...lol...
Remember Volker runs a rear gear diff(no slip) on top of the spool(no slip), so why run a slipper spool(slip) and ball diff(slip) in your tc4 .... It would be nice if someone would release a tc4 gear diff in the near future though......
Remember Volker runs a rear gear diff(no slip) on top of the spool(no slip), so why run a slipper spool(slip) and ball diff(slip) in your tc4 .... It would be nice if someone would release a tc4 gear diff in the near future though......
Thanks for the info. I never thought to sand just one of the slipper pads to adjust the diff gear mesh.
The biggest advantage to building your own slipper diff for a TC3/4 is that you can use the plastic outdrives (to save weight). While it is not the most durable option, it can be used on a more open track where hitting boards isn't as likely.
The biggest advantage to building your own slipper diff for a TC3/4 is that you can use the plastic outdrives (to save weight). While it is not the most durable option, it can be used on a more open track where hitting boards isn't as likely.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Thanks MoparSRT I was windering what the best ones would be I have the Blue alum currently but they wear pretty quick.
Ray K. won with a spool/lcd combo, and that's good enough for me.... How many real races have the slipper spool folks won ???? NONE !
Tech Addict
Here is the chassis, really not much to show. I trimmed the Chassis to 94 mm width using a Dremel Cut Wheel.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Help!!! I'm looking for the Ae part # for the TC3/TC4 front spool, is it the same as solid front axle part# 1703. Also I have a borrowed LRP X12 21.5 I am going to try in my TC4 CTA.(Canadian T/A) The instruction manual suggest 3.5/1 for TC. Also max temp 210*. My Ballistic 21.5, Novak says no more than 160*????.
BE KOOL
BE KOOL
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Help!!! I'm looking for the Ae part # for the TC3/TC4 front spool, is it the same as solid front axle part# 1703. Also I have a borrowed LRP X12 21.5 I am going to try in my TC4 CTA.(Canadian T/A) The instruction manual suggest 3.5/1 for TC. Also max temp 210*. My Ballistic 21.5, Novak says no more than 160*????.
BE KOOL
BE KOOL
Last edited by DesertRat; 11-15-2013 at 04:06 PM. Reason: a word.
Nice layout Elliot ! 94mm is not bad.....That Car is ready for 17.5t/13.5t for sure... Good luck...
Thanks, I want to buy a Fantom 25.5 but they sooo many options.
Help!!! I'm looking for the Ae part # for the TC3/TC4 front spool, is it the same as solid front axle part# 1703. Also I have a borrowed LRP X12 21.5 I am going to try in my TC4 CTA.(Canadian T/A) The instruction manual suggest 3.5/1 for TC. Also max temp 210*. My Ballistic 21.5, Novak says no more than 160*????.
BE KOOL
BE KOOL
I would not start a 21.5 at 3.5 FDR, especially a borrowed one ! 4.0 to start and stay away from the max timing slug .