Team Associated TC4
mcmaster.com - they have just about everything you can imagine.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
this is the tc4 i picked up yesterday. i was told its a club racer, is it? i'm new to tc4
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
WoW some maintenance issues there. Did you get it cheap? It could be the RTR or club racer, same thing really.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
lack of maintenance!!! i am going to take completely apart, clean, lube, and replace all the messed up broken parts. i feel like i got a good deal. it came with some parts that i am going to sell so that should bring the over all cost down
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
The TC4 pictured above may have started out life as a Club Racer kit (http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...C4/Club_Racer/), but it has a few obvious upgrades such as...
- blue aluminum threaded shock bodies
- blue aluminum shock caps
- blue aluminum cvd bones
- blue aluminum screws
If that car doesn't have a solid front spool, then it is an upgraded RTR or previous version tub chassis TC4. Either way it looks like you got a good deal (if the price was right).
- blue aluminum threaded shock bodies
- blue aluminum shock caps
- blue aluminum cvd bones
- blue aluminum screws
If that car doesn't have a solid front spool, then it is an upgraded RTR or previous version tub chassis TC4. Either way it looks like you got a good deal (if the price was right).
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
could it have started out as a factory team?
No. The Factory Team TC4 has a carbon fiber chassis and top plate. As old as those tires are, that looks like one of the previously released versions rather than the more recent Club Racer. I'm not sure about the TC4, but the TC3 came in different versions like the Racer, Team, Factory Team and RTR. Each one had a few differences and upgrades. I think Associated did the same thing with the TC4, but I'm not familiar with the differences.
I can't find a driver that will fit the 4-40 what size of a driver would I use? Would I get away with using a 4 or a 5? I was sold some team losi ones and can't find the right driver size to set the nut down in place. Suggestions, this is the last thing I need to get her running again lol. So really excited to get her going again. Also is it supposed to be a tight fit? I can't seem to get the nut to sit right for some reason.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
IIRC, it's a 3/32.
But this package of team losi brand should work right? I mean it should be just a standard mini 4-40 I need?
Tech Fanatic
A normal 4-40 nut uses a 1/4" socket, the mini 4-40 nuts use a 3/16" socket, 3/16" is also the normal size for 2-56 nuts.
4-40 screws will usally use a 3/32" or 1/16" hex driver
4-40 screws will usally use a 3/32" or 1/16" hex driver
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
what kind of lube (shock, gear) do you guys use on your rides? gonna start to disassemble soon.
shock rod: green slime
Diffs: AE black for the thrust, AE white or translucid for the 3/32 balls.
Bevel gears: pretty much any grease will work, but I've never noticed any difference when running them dry so that's what I roll with. If you really want some grease in there, use a tiny amount of white AE diff grease just to be sure you don't mess your diff should some of that gear grease get inside the diff.
For that reason you also don't want to put too much black grease on the thrust. It won't work any better drowned in grease, and the surplus can actually work its way up around the screw and mess up the white grease and diff action. It's admittedly uncommon with AE diffs, but it's better to be on the safe side.
Diffs: AE black for the thrust, AE white or translucid for the 3/32 balls.
Bevel gears: pretty much any grease will work, but I've never noticed any difference when running them dry so that's what I roll with. If you really want some grease in there, use a tiny amount of white AE diff grease just to be sure you don't mess your diff should some of that gear grease get inside the diff.
For that reason you also don't want to put too much black grease on the thrust. It won't work any better drowned in grease, and the surplus can actually work its way up around the screw and mess up the white grease and diff action. It's admittedly uncommon with AE diffs, but it's better to be on the safe side.
Oh, and for the CVDs, Tamiya AW grease. Expensive but well worth it in the long run. Of course if you run on a dirty/dusty track they'll require regular cleaning and re-greasing, but that's no reason to run them dry, they wear faster, bind when spinning and rust appears quickly.