THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

OK....I give up. I got a complete new bearing set for my TC3 and TC4. They have the metal shields. I picked away at one of the large axle bearings and finally after what seemed like 10 min got the lock ring and the shield out using an Xacto knife. There has to be a better way.
I also got the blue anodized arm mounts, triangle, circle, square and 3 degree. You say these go on the chassis with no shims. What does that do to front kick up and rear anti squat. Thanks guys

Be
TJ

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

Bearings... do yourself a favor and just run them... If you have to do "something" just spray em out real good with motor spray with the shields on and put a little thin oil back on before installing...

I've run the stock rubber sealed bearings, the teflon sealed bearings, and both kinds with the shields off and sprayed out... in the end it makes very little difference in the drivetrain and the un-shielded ones get crunchy quick outdoors... As long as the bearings are still smooth the minimal drag from the shields is not going to matter at all unless your such a good driver that you make zero mistakes, hit every apex of every corner, corner with maximum corner speed, and you feel the only way to get that next .001s is with less drag on your bearings... worn/crunchy bearings... that's a different story altogether replace those asap!

As far as the arm mounts the aluminum ones are at "0" roll center. It represents the lowest roll center you can run without custom parts... In order to run any type of kick up or anti dive you need to add shims to the appropriate block to put the angles (+ or -) back in. The shims can be the stock TC4 plastic shims or for more precision you can use aluminum spacers or different thicknesses.

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

Removing the grease from the bearings is worth the time but there is easier ways to do it. One is get a $20 ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and just plop them in with some solvent, hit the start button and let it do the work for you! Second is to buy a bearing blaster and some motor spray or brake clean and just spray the grease our without removing the Shields. Easy Peasy!

I uses an aluminum bearing blaster but you can get a cheap one from RPM that works just as good.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXEV92&P=8

My VTA TC3 drive train is super free and will roll for 5 sec when spun by hand with no motor attached. It does make a difference IMO, but I race with very good drivers and one little mistake and you are back 3 positions and a lap down so every little bit IS important.

espcarino

iTrader: (2)

I bought a 2s ROAR battery which has a normal height of 25mm. I checked other batteries and this height seems to be normal. The issue is that it is not possible to get the clips into the screws for the battery brace. Otherwise it fits fine.

I have the club racer TC4 and the issue could be that in the battery tray are little spacer (on the right and left side of the battery tray) to avoid that old NiMH batteries would not move. Do I need to cut or file/rasp them off?

.crispy

Indeed.

I ground them out with the dremel grinding wheel.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

with the shields removed, how often does everyone oil their bearings?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

One application per season if they don't get crunchy.....

espcarino

iTrader: (2)

thank you, will do give it a try.

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

I apply one tiny little drop every 5-6 race days, don't even remove them from the car. Takes only one minute to hit all the wheel bearings and CVD joints. Only oil transmissions bearings once a season or if doing diff repairs.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The inner drivetrain Bearings are pretty well shielded from dirt, but the wheel axle ones are not , and you'll need at least teflon sealed Bearings there...

Rojna

Found them

8-32 Aluminum Mini Lock nut

.crispy

Awesome. Thanks.

Still doesn't say what the O.D. of those nuts are though. I'll get some and see.

Rojna

Sure it does ... they use a standard 7mm hex wrench


SPECIFICATIONS:
Inner diameter: 4.2mm (8-32 THREADED) width: 7mm height: 5mm

anr211

iTrader: (11)

I'm kind of skeptical on that listing. They say its for a 2wd slash, but slashes use metric wheel nuts. They also say it has a 4.2mm inner diameter, but an 8-32 thread should have a 3.45mm inner diameter.

Rojna

Looks like they have them listed under different kits, including a TC3. Also clearly described as a 8-32 nut.
Yes you are correct, a 8-32 nut should be 3.45 but a bolt thread would be around 4.2mm.


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