300LikesTeam Associated TC4
09-10-2012, 07:46 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
LOSA 3344 & C-Hubs
Speaking of Losa #3344, I bought a set, built it, and never put it on my TC4 since I decided to turn it into a drift car. I have the LOSA 3344 JRX-S along with several sets of the LOSA C-Hubs that are still BNIP. Anyone want them?
09-10-2012, 08:00 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
09-10-2012, 08:49 AM
09-10-2012, 10:17 AM
Tech Fanatic
Before removing chassis braces which may lead to stripped gears and bent shafts I would first work on the suspension to properly set up the car.
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
09-10-2012, 10:24 AM
Before removing chassis braces which may lead to stripped gears and bent shafts I would first work on the suspension to properly set up the car.
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
we'll see how it holds up.
Matt
09-10-2012, 10:29 AM
Tech Fanatic
Springs and roll center on the arms and upper links are good places to start, I usally run green or silver springs in the rear with #3 shims under both rear arm mounts and 3mm spacers under the upper link.
09-10-2012, 11:57 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
How well could a TC4 do against the newer chassis? I'm thinking of getting a cheap TC4 (plastic tub version) to race in 17.5 blinky class. I don't really want to spend $400 or more on a current chassis because I really don't know how much racing I'll be doing. I'm assuming since 17.5 isn't exactly a lot of power, even an old chassis like the TC4 should do ok. What do you think?
09-10-2012, 12:43 PM
How well could a TC4 do against the newer chassis? I'm thinking of getting a cheap TC4 (plastic tub version) to race in 17.5 blinky class. I don't really want to spend $400 or more on a current chassis because I really don't know how much racing I'll be doing. I'm assuming since 17.5 isn't exactly a lot of power, even an old chassis like the TC4 should do ok. What do you think?
Matt
09-10-2012, 01:37 PM
If you don't have a solid spool for your TC4, I would suggest getting one if running it in 17.5. It will help the car get out of the corner if you are running on a high bite surface. The TC4 club racer comes with a solid front spool.
The only major tuning advantage that newer cars have is gear diffs - since they can change oil as a tuning option. The only AE options for the TC4 are ball diff, solid spool, and one-way. However, there are DIY options to create a slipper spool out of a stock TC4 ball diff with a few inexpensive parts.
The only major tuning advantage that newer cars have is gear diffs - since they can change oil as a tuning option. The only AE options for the TC4 are ball diff, solid spool, and one-way. However, there are DIY options to create a slipper spool out of a stock TC4 ball diff with a few inexpensive parts.
09-10-2012, 05:56 PM
Tech Master
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so raising the inner camber links on the rear=more rear traction?
Last edited by GasGod; 09-11-2012 at 12:10 PM.
09-10-2012, 06:34 PM
well i pulled apart my rear end... and the outdrives were totally destroyed. steel is going to be a must with brushless stuff
Matt
Matt
09-10-2012, 07:53 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
09-10-2012, 08:36 PM
they seem to be fine... however i currently have some aluminum ones up front, and once my steel losi lcds get here the aluminum ones are getting rebuilt and put on the back.
im curious how long my diff had been like that though, cause i was running almost the same lap times all day. it didnt have much punch out of slow corners, guess i know why... i also now know why my front tires were 15 degrees warmer.
Matt
im curious how long my diff had been like that though, cause i was running almost the same lap times all day. it didnt have much punch out of slow corners, guess i know why... i also now know why my front tires were 15 degrees warmer.
Matt
09-10-2012, 10:24 PM
Tc4 gearing for 17.5 blinky : 3.65fdr ! Lots of throttle expo and throttle acceleration to punch out of corners.....
09-11-2012, 08:45 AM
spur is locked to the center of the car and pinion is locked to the motor which is locked to the "wing"
When you take away the bracing that keeps the "wing" rigid to the center of the car, you allow it to flex which can change the distance between the pinion (locked to the "wing") and the spur, which means the mesh changes. . .
Springs aren't expensive and are a great tuning option. I would buy them before I cut away structure. . .