Like Tree222Likes

Team Associated TC4


Old 10-31-2011, 03:04 PM
  #10231  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6,295
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Jason, did you weigh your car??? What battery pack do you run ? Try to get as light as possible...
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 03:48 PM
  #10232  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Jason, did you weigh your car??? What battery pack do you run ? Try to get as light as possible...

Lol. Yea I run my car at the min weight. 1550g. Lol. We run. Usvta rules

I have made the changes. Just have to get down to the track
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 04:32 PM
  #10233  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6,295
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

Sorry Jason , I also wanted to point out that I meant two degrees negative camber all around, not positive in my previous post : I worked too much this week....lol.... I see that you run one degree positive camber up front but sauce only 1/3 of the tire. AE tc4 cars have loose bearings that already cause a one degree gain in camber with minimal lateral push. So you are ending up with two degrees positive camber while turning, too much traction, and huge outside tire wear. On the other hand a negative two degrees camber would end up being one degree negative camber with a more even tire wear, and, with full tire sauce, will give you enough traction to turn... Also, for 1550grams I think Ae blue or silver springs work best.....
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 04:33 PM
  #10234  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 209
Default

What chassis are you guys running ? ( Jason what chassis are you running on that setup ?)
hotrod306 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 05:05 PM
  #10235  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Quite right on the bearing slop. And I am actually get most of my wear on the inside of the tire currently. And I just replaced my bearings on the front and CA'd the inside of where the bearings go to Eliminate the slop and I had to add a shim behind the outside bearing reduce it more


I am running the factory team carbon version with all of the braces. ( front center and rear) removed

I'll take some pics as soon as I get light and time at the same time
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 07:30 PM
  #10236  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Jason, how much faster was the guy ahead of you? I am certain that you will find that little extra speed/setup to win... Let us know soon...
I am usually only a few second back after 8 min But that is due to mistakes. If the 2 of us dont make a mistake it's a tossup as to who wins. average lap times are about the same
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 11:04 PM
  #10237  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6,295
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

You got that car running right Jason... Good luck at next race !
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 05:37 AM
  #10238  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Thanks,

I will be hitting our indoor track for some testing and maintenance on Wednesday and I will let you all know how it goes.

Just went thru the car last night and made some of the changes and it feels pretty good.

the one Thing I did this year is to centralize the added weight that I need for this class so I have put 126g of lead along the center-line under the drive shaft and I am now .05% from being perfectly side to side balanced and with my battery positions (custom battery locators) I can set the forward/rearward bias from +10% to -10% and a couple places in-between.



So I will be putting a few packs thru this beast and I can't wait
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 07:23 AM
  #10239  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: France
Posts: 812
Default

One thing that I cannot remember reading about in all your threads that could be good to upgrade too, are Losi pistons in shocks, they are defenitely smoother than AEs
olly986 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 07:27 AM
  #10240  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 209
Default

what happens when you dont run with a spine board?( i think thats whats it called)
do you get any more grip?
what springs for rtr should i run?(silver can,carpet) thanks
hotrod306 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 09:09 AM
  #10241  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hotrod306 View Post
what happens when you dont run with a spine board?( i think thats whats it called)
do you get any more grip?
what springs for rtr should i run?(silver can,carpet) thanks

The Idea of removing the spline and top plate support posts is to increase flex in the chassis.

Generally (as far as I have found) adding flex helps with low traction conditions
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 09:40 AM
  #10242  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 209
Default

jason and who ever, have you ever raced with tc4 in stock binkey 17,5 class and if so how did you make out vS the tc5,6 newer xrays ect?
hotrod306 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 10:11 AM
  #10243  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hotrod306 View Post
jason and who ever, have you ever raced with tc4 in stock binkey 17,5 class and if so how did you make out vS the tc5,6 newer xrays ect?
I have not raced this chassis in anything other than VTA
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 11:12 AM
  #10244  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Royal Oaks, CA
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I recently got a FTTC4, and I noticed removing motor screws is a pain in the butt for me. The problem for me is that the arms are in the way, so I would have my hex tools at an angle almost stripping the screws. What are your ways and tips I should know how to remove motor screws when adjusting for mesh.
iDChuck is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 11:31 AM
  #10245  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Generally I only change gearing occasionally but when I do I remove the motor and motor mount with the spur gear and set the mesh on the bench as it is a pain in the behind to adjust in the car

I have done it but with the old style 90 degree hexes. But it's slow
jdeadman is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Terms of Service