quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

I think I posted this in the TC gallery but figured it would make more sense for it to be here. Just wanted to post a couple of pictures of my new TC4. I found it on ebay last week and pretty much stole it. It's a TC4 Team kit running stock wheels/tires with a 350Z body. The body is pretty beat but I knew that when I bought it and plan on going with something else soon enough. It's still a good body for beating on though. The car also came with a set of premounted foams.



Come on guys, lets keep this thread alive! I know these aren't the most high tech cars around these days but there are still a ton of us that run them.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Will the 200mm conversion kit for a TC3 work on a TC4?
Thank you for the help
Dave

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

After modification, the Tc3 arms will fit the Tc4 hingepins. With some creative pin shimming, they would fit fine. (minus the front bumper of course) The problem would be the Tc3 arms would be even more brittle than they already are, and the droop screws might not line up just right. Depending on your uses, it should do ya just fine tho.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

I will be using a couple TC4 for Oval racing.
I will have to see if they work
Thank you for the help
Dave

Toolmannz2

iTrader: (2)

Hi Dave w
Im running two FTTC4s over here in New Zealand Outdoors on a fast flowing low traction carpark type surface.One is in the silver can class and the other in Stock 27T.The one in silvercan is hooked up great and is the front runner in that class but when I have the second car setup the same in stock the the car is very oversteery exiting the corners.Do you have a good base setup for stock class.btw i am running 4300 Batts in stock and only 1300 nicads in silver can which are considerably lighter.

Cheers Dave

fender_guy

iTrader: (7)

What do you guys think would be good gearing for a TC4 with a 10T?I also have a P2K2 I might run in the stock class, what would be good for that? I don't have much experience with TC's most of my knowledge is off-road so its nice to learn new stuff.

ford_racing

iTrader: (6)

For stock you will need a very different setup to the 540 car, there is a lot of difference in speed, my first suggestion would be harder rear springs and change the shock angle to be more lay down. You may also have to go upone spring rate in the front

When I had a 10T it was about a 18mm rollout on a smallish track, I tihnk it was about 16 to about 19 and 75 Spur

Boomer

I think I would actually go the other way. . .

You say you're oversteering on exit. This would indicate that you're not transferring enough weight to the rears to compensate for the increase in traction need (i.e. you're hitting the gas but the rear springs and shocks aren't letting the weight transfer rearward enough to get the bite down)

If you feel like your turn entry is fine, leave the front the way it is. Go a step softer on your rear springs and see how that works.

Going from a 540 to a stock will increase your speed and torque just a bit. It's easy to get traction when you can't go fast. . .you need to change things a bit as you go up in speed. It shouldn't change your balance much although you might want to check - the motors are different sizes so we can assume that they weight differently as well - make sure you're re-balanced.

Zagar

iTrader: (1)

What are the differences between a TC4 and a Factory Team TC4?

stanislow

iTrader: (4)

the regular TC4 is a tub chassis design whereas the FTTC4 is carbonfibre and is a flat chassis, both are shaftdrive and to me the only difference is the topdeck design and standoffs

Zagar

iTrader: (1)

Great! Thank you!

Toolmannz2

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input guys ,Ive been doing a little research of my own on this thread and made a few changes and tried some of (S Fenders ) ideas.
this is what he was saying back on page 232

With the tc4, on my tracks i test 25WT and 20WT with #1 pistons (Larger) which was best but not really smooth to drive.
Last i've drilled my piston for having two 2mm holes and 60WT on front and 40 on rear. The static feeling is really different from 25-25 #1 but what a difference on the track ! More grip, better handling.

Now I have spent a day down at our track and tried his theory and have found my car is a lot more hooked up btw I am running Sorex 28s tires as the weather here is cooling off.The car is now holding in the corners but i cant seem to be able to keep that speed for the transitions long sweepers are no worrys good tracking and corner speed but lose all my advantage in the infield.At the moment I am running plastic outdrives front and back, I will post a more detailed setup soon,also interested in a comment previously about a setup Dave W recommended using light shock oil and harder springs,would this improve my car in the infield?any ideas would be appreciated or better still some setups.

Cheers Dave

quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

TC4 RTR -Composite tub chassis, composite shocks, composite shock towers, composite CVDs, steel screws, steel turnbuckles, composite battery hold down

TC4 Team (kit) -Composite tub chassis, threaded aluminum shocks, composite shock towers, aluminum MIP CVDs, steel screws, steel turnbuckles, composite battery hold down

TC4 Factory Team - Graphite upper/lower chassis, threaded aluminum shocks, graphite shock towers, aluminum MIP CVDs, blue aluminum screws, titanium turnbuckles, no battery hold down (tape)

The Factory Team version includes a different motor mount, and an optional one way I think. Anyone know any other differences? Does the FT have hardened diff outputs?

fender_guy

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info. What kind of servo's are you guys using? Mine is starting to act up wouldn't mind getting a new one. Also the servo arm on mine broke but I am not sure what to use exactly.

DRAG_ON

Factory Team TC4 comes with 2 type of diff outdrive--plastic diff outdrive and steel diff outdrive -- you can forget about the plastic outdrive it wear pretty fast even for 19T stock but the best thing about plastic outdrive is light. The motor mount is aluminum solid means that no more clamp type.

One way and solid axle is optional parts -- for modified race i recommend using solid axle, and for stock race use one way provide more afresive turning. Factory Team TC4 comes with 2.5 carbon deck (if i'm not mistaken) and for rubber asphalt race i recommend using the ITF top deck and remove all the chassis stiffener.