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Old 10-17-2005, 07:51 AM
  #6766  
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Heres whats on my car if you want to try it.
Front
Purple springs
60 wt
2 pistons
inside on arms, 2nd from inside on tower
.025 shim under all blocks except Triangle.
Camber 2nd hole from inside with Silver ball stud and 2 washers
5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
28 mm TM Racing Plaids
light sway bar
4 deg castor

Rear
Gold springs
40 wt
2 pistons
outside on arms 3rd from inside on tower
camber all the way in with black ballstud and no washers
XXXS zero deg rear hubs with silver ballstud inside and no washers
5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
2.5 rear block
light sway bar

Express C2 geared 37/98
Express 3800's
BMI chassis
Square front and rear input shafts
Yok caps and bladders
Paragon Ground Effects
Mazda 6 (my carpet bodies arent ready yet)

I want to try 2.0 wide stance for the rear but I don't have all the aluminum that I need yet. I think that the 2.5 is probably in the middle of 2.0 and 2.0 Wide as far as comfort and speed goes. 3.0 is probably too much for carpet
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:55 AM
  #6767  
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How do you get 2.0 wide stance on a TC4?
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:58 AM
  #6768  
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Talking

THANKS, i WILL TRY SOME OF THIS, SOME IS HOW iIHAVE MY CAR SET-UP, BUT THIS WILL HELP EVEN MORE PLUS I HAVE BEEN READING ALOT ON SET AND GEARING, THIS WILL HELP .
THANKS,NEWERA152
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:05 AM
  #6769  
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you use a 3.0 block in the rear with the Circle block in the front
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:44 AM
  #6770  
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Using Losi parts LOSIA2226 rear hubs on a TC4

How much rear toe in do these parts give if any?

or do you just use the fearture of the upright ball stud and nothing else?

Mark
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:50 AM
  #6771  
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I run the XXXS hubs for the verticle ball stud but yes you can use it to fine tune your Toe in settings as well. I know that Dave Worth actually runs front arms in the rear. This affects the weight transfer and I believe makes the car feel more like a TC3. I have never driven a TC3 so thats not that important to me.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:05 AM
  #6772  
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I was running the O block and the 2.0 and the car was not handling well. When I went to the 3.0 the car felt much better. It actually was able to turn. I basicly have 2 degree of toe now in the rear of the car. Sometimes not enough toe can cuase the car to not turn well. I was having this problem of mid to exit steering. I had none.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:11 AM
  #6773  
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running the circle block and the 2.0 block is going to give you about 1.0 deg toe in in the rear. I feel this car needs more toe in to run well. The problem is on carpet too much toe in will make your car slower through the turns. Probably easier to drive but definitely will scrub more speed. The 2.0 wide allows you to run 2.0 degrees of toe in and scrub less speed AND keep the hinge pins wider which will increase stablity. It's kind of like running a Long Arm setup VS a Short Arm setup for thoses of you who have run the BK2 or MF2. The overall length doesnt change, just the pivot places.
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:44 AM
  #6774  
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Looks like I have a few choices now. I noticed the biggest difference in turning when I changed the rear toe. The 2.0 and circle block made me to loose I could get the rear to come around in any corner. I might start slow by using a 3.0 and circle block in the rear to see what happens.
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:58 AM
  #6775  
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Default Ratio/Rollout

Hi guys,

bit of of newbie question.

What is the benefit of a larger spur gear.

to achieve a rollout of 26-27mm a lot of gear option can be used.

is it better to run a

98/37
96/35
92/32

i understand that the ratio and rollouts are different for each, but what is the benefit or negative for the spur size.

Thanks
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Old 10-17-2005, 12:06 PM
  #6776  
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My setup from Vegas is on the Associated web site now, for a printable version.
I ran this setup club racing this past weekend and it is a big traction setup. I will post changes for club racing as I find them.

Walter
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Old 10-17-2005, 12:06 PM
  #6777  
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bigger spur give makes the powerband lower giving you more acceleration and also more drag brake. The smaller spur will move the powerband higher and give less drag brake. Top speed should stay the same in the scenario you gave because the rollout is the same. The "feel" will just be different. Remember your motor will have alot to do with this as well. A lower tourque motor will need a bigger spur to give that pull out of the turns. Does this make sense???
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:34 PM
  #6778  
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Alright, I know this has in all reality become the FTTC4 thread, but I have a tubby question. I've been chasing down a tweak and a steering/pulling problem for a while (long enough to convince me to get an FK05 in addition to my team TC4 ) I have suspected a chassis twist/tweak problem but have just now gotten the car down to its bare plastic chassis. I set it on a relatively flat surface and it has just the slightest bit of rocking motion to it from corner to corner. I have heard differing stories about whether a chassis thats a bit tweaked can cause steering and or pulling problems. I have no doubt this is the source of my tweak problem. What do you guys think? Can a twisted chasis cause a car to pull one way under power and pull the other under braking? Random replies expected and accepted.

Andrew
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:42 PM
  #6779  
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Default Push help

Hey Guys,
Carpet track med. traction.
I ran Bakers set up exactly tires and everything except I ran the parma alfa and I did run 70wt. ft and 50 wt. rear.
I run a brushless 5.5r and I had a good push going in the corners.
I had to use drag breaks to get the weight to shift so I could turn.
I went with softer springs in front, then harder in the rear, then lighter oil in front and took all the screws out of the top of the spin.
Still it pushed.
Help please.
God Bless
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:44 PM
  #6780  
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Default Just my opinion, but...

...if you're getting that far into it and it's that big a problem for you then you won't get acceptable results (or even diagnosis) using a "relatively flat" surface. Use a flat surface and go from there. If your surface is really "unknown" the "slightest bit of rocking motion" could just as easily be your surface as your chassis. Don't waste your time on the minutae if you're not going to give yourself the benefit of proper diagnosis/analysis.

Scottrik
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