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Old 09-06-2005, 04:37 AM
  #6151  
imr
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ok, thanks on the input about the diff weight.

Got my kit today.

What about shock lenght front/rear?
Any suggestions?
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Old 09-06-2005, 08:43 AM
  #6152  
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DAWGMEAT: Yep. Take a stock TC3 tub and bolt it to the bottom of your FTTC4 plate using two of the transmission case mounting holes, each, front and rear. You can then use the TC3 tub as a template... where the steering rack holes are located, drill slowly with a new drill bit, dont push, let the bit do the work, or it will press out the carbon weave and look like ass. For the purpose of testing, you can bolt in the rack with button head screws, yes they stick down below rideheight, but are close enough to the centerline of the chassis, that at 5mm rideheight, they wont drag on the carpet. If it is something you end up liking, then you can go back and countersink the two holes.

Use the stock AE TC3 steering rack mounting bolt, use a little blue 242 locktite on the screw and snug it up good. Incidentally, i included a pic of the parts used in my rack to make it near zero slop. Those are flanged bearings used in the B3/T3 steering rack, eliminating the use of washers. The motor shims in the pic are placed between the bearings to maintain proper alignment, with no rack binding. YES the TC3 rack DOES need maintenance when you run the rug to keep tire rubber from building up on it and getting gummy... 5 minutes of maintenance for a tighter, slop-free steering isnt too much to ask, is it? (ackerman is better with this setup IMO)

- DaveW
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC4-steering-rack-4.jpg  
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:06 AM
  #6153  
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Has anybody figured out an easy way to put a motor in the FT TC4? Man what a pain.....[/QUOTE]

how i do it...

use a ball-hex wrench (no-brainer here, AE now has a set thats quite nice)... put the top screw in first but just a few turns... the bottom screw i hold the can with my thumb and middle finger (left hand), put the wrench under the cvd bone above the arm and through, the use the pointer on the left hand to steady the screw while you get a few threads in... adjust and tighten...
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:14 PM
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Sorry guys.. any comments on the composite dog bone ? is it good or fragile upon minor collisons ? thx in advance
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kawada
Sorry guys.. any comments on the composite dog bone ? is it good or fragile upon minor collisons ? thx in advance
They are fine to use in the rear, but I wouldn't run them up front. They seem to break around the area where the CVD is pinned through.
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
They are fine to use in the rear, but I wouldn't run them up front. They seem to break around the area where the CVD is pinned through.
Thx Buddy.. Just placed a pair on the rear .. furthermore.. My IRS front spooling deemed to be weak, is it true that Asso is tougher than mine ?

Thx again for the suggestions ..
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:51 PM
  #6157  
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Another question: in the manual there is written that the tc4 comes with 3 rear toe in.
The rear arm mount is 2.5.
Does this mean there is already 0.5 toe in in the rear hub carrier or is there an error in the manual?
My guess is the manual is wrong and the kit comes in 2.5 rear toe in.

or.......?
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kawada
Thx Buddy.. Just placed a pair on the rear .. furthermore.. My IRS front spooling deemed to be weak, is it true that Asso is tougher than mine ?

Thx again for the suggestions ..
The IRS Spool is light and the outdrive shows sign of wear after a few races even with pin cushions. I replaced mine with the Associated Steel Spool and has not failed or showed signs of wear. I used the IRS Composite bomnes also with the spool, in stock and holds up well, just dont hit something or t will break.

I Just repossessed my WarpSpeedTC3 with tons of hop ups from IRS/Square/Lunsford etc, to be placed on the TC4 FK!

Can't wait to get mine!!
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Old 09-06-2005, 08:06 PM
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I'm pretty happy with how my kit went together. Although I have something wrong with one of my diffs. I think I need new diff balls. I replaced the thrust assembly and screw and it wasn't the problem.

Also, I don't like having to ruin my servo case. You have to cut off an ear of the servo. I use this servo in my 1/8 scale and am not too excited about cutting the ear off.
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:07 PM
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Just got my Factory Team kit today and was wondering what kind of chassis prep people were doing such as sanding edges and gluing etc?? Can't wait to put this thing together!!

Greg
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg-S
Just got my Factory Team kit today and was wondering what kind of chassis prep people were doing such as sanding edges and gluing etc?? Can't wait to put this thing together!!

Greg
Not a whole lot, mainly just need to work on the battery slots(so the cells sit properly in them & there are no edges to cut into them) & the battery strap slots(they need the edges smotthed a bit, I forgot about that one this past weekend & did eventually cut my strapping tape in one heat, & of course the car just ejected the battery pack, ). And while you don't HAVE to glue the outer edges of the chassis, it is a good idea to(so you just use a bit of CA on a cotton swab & put a thin layer of it all around the chassis)....
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Old 09-07-2005, 01:31 AM
  #6162  
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RC NIght. Low CG car is brilliant. Josh used at the KO Gp after back to back tests with the normal BMI TC4.

It is now his preferred car. That's unless we go to Yokomo of course.
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:48 AM
  #6163  
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Joe: How does the car perform differently? Is there any "bad effects" from the low-CG conversion? (ie: tire wear, poor performance on certain surfaces?)
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:58 PM
  #6164  
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im lookin for the associated lightweight steel TC4 diff halves for ma TC3 whats the part number i cant find it?

Cheers!
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Old 09-07-2005, 01:00 PM
  #6165  
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do you have any pics of how you worked the steering. Also were you able to fix the bump steer issue you said you were having?
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