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Old 09-05-2005, 10:35 AM
  #6136  
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DAWGMEAT: Sexy. This is by far the best LOOKING TC AE has released to date. The LONG aluminum screws that link the upper deck through the aluminum blocks to the gearcases worries me. Looks like a bad shear point, if its ever put into the boards hard enough. Hows it handle... or have you driven it yet?

- DaveW
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:58 AM
  #6137  
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Hey,

Can someone who has both Team, FT kits and a gram scale do me a favor...

Weigh the stock plastic, graphite and FT CF (with plastic "adaptor piece" screwed on) shock towers and post the weights. I'm looking for some good ways to shed weight on my car
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Grizzbob
Actually, I use the plastic outdrives almost exclusively, & when adjusted correctly, I hardly ever damage them with 19 turn motors(but a 10 turn will melt 'em down in a BIG hurry, no matter what you do, from my experience ). However, I do not do it the conventional way of tightening all the way & backing out a bit, instead, I actually do something I picked up several years ago from running Losi offroad cars, I'd first just get it tight enough (while assembling them) to get some diff action, then work them a bitjust spin them a fair amount by hand), then tighten down some more & work them in again, & after a couple of tightenings, start to also test how tight they are by locking down the outdrivesd & trying to turn the diff gear. If it slips, then I'll tighten & work them some more & retest, & just keep that up until I can't turn the diff gear anymore(& if I want the front diff a bit tighter, then I'll go a bit farther on that one). then when I have 'em in the car, I'll start off with stock motors only(in practice) to make sure they break in properly & with the least amount of risk, & recheck them after every run(& readjust as necessary, but I rarely need to), by the time I'm ready to bolt in a 19 turn, they're ready to go & hold up just fine(& are still smooth as butter, & will stay that way for MONTHS before it becomes neccessary to rebuild them).....
Bob, I used to think the same way you do, until the regional last weekend. I've always used the plastic outdrives in my TC3 and TC4, stock, 19t, even mod once. And I build my diffs the same way you do, I learned that from 1/12 scale. Apparently the diff spring in the rear collasped. I only ran the car twice last weekend, 2 practice sessions. When I found the bad rear diff, I took it apart to rebuild it. The plastic halves melted to the point where I couldn't get the diff ring off. Decided to check the front and found the same thing. Also had to replace the diff bearings because melted plastic got in them. Took so long to replace everything I only ran 1 qualifier.
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:47 PM
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Maybe use the lightened steel ones... just a thought.
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Old 09-05-2005, 01:21 PM
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anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?

Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
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Old 09-05-2005, 02:23 PM
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Or the Irrgang ones, my favourites :-)

Originally Posted by warpig
Maybe use the lightened steel ones... just a thought.
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Old 09-05-2005, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by imr
anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?

Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
i think running lightened steel ones front and rear added about 40/45 grams on suprisingly

i still got mine down to 1505 with graphite chassis, but steel outdrives....also an alu steering rack.
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Old 09-05-2005, 02:48 PM
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Default TC4 FT pro and cons

Pro's
1.suspension slop= none
2.steering=more than enough out of the box
3.set-up sheets for carpet, outdoor diff, outdoor one-way
4.ample amount of space for electronics
5.very explosive
6. easy to drive

Con's
1.Drive train shimming
2.pulling a X-ray with the battery strap not included, but there are set-up holes for it
3.aluminum screws I rather have the plain black ones 3 of them bit the bullet during building
4. steering mechanism has way to much slop, I had to really work at to reduce it some.
5. motor mount, you better have a round tip allen head drive
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Old 09-05-2005, 03:37 PM
  #6144  
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Just drop in the TC3 steering rack and be done with all that steering slop. Its really easy to do.



- DaveW
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Old 09-05-2005, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
Just drop in the TC3 steering rack and be done with all that steering slop. Its really easy to do.



- DaveW
Will it fit
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Old 09-05-2005, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by imr
anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?

Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
The difference between the two is HUGE. The plastice ones are half the weight. I am thinking the Niftech outdrives with the swivel drive shafts or the cushion pins from IRS. The IRS outdrives are on backorder.
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i think running lightened steel ones front and rear added about 40/45 grams on suprisingly

i still got mine down to 1505 with graphite chassis, but steel outdrives....also an alu steering rack.
To be honest, I'd stick with the steel ones. I'm still running the original steel ones in my 5 year old TC3 and their still in very good shape, And I'm far from the world's best road course wheel


Has anybody figured out an easy way to put a motor in the FT TC4? Man what a pain.....
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:44 PM
  #6148  
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Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i think running lightened steel ones front and rear added about 40/45 grams on suprisingly
Lightened my @$$! I'm just gonna stick with the plastic ones. Never had a problem. Only broke one running them for 2 years on the TC3 and that was hitting a wood board, full throttle, head on....

I'll just save my 10turn for my 12th scale

Last edited by BlackKat; 09-05-2005 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:30 AM
  #6149  
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I now have light steel spool and diffs on my sons car. They may be slightly heavier than plastic or IRS alloy ones, but what a problem I have solved. They now never need touching, don't wear, don't break !

All up weight with 3700 cells is around 1515. Just right.

I think I'll keep it that way.
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Old 09-06-2005, 03:35 AM
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Default Johnbull...

how did the lowered TC4 drivetrain project go?
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