300LikesTeam Associated TC4
08-24-2005, 10:06 AM
#6001
Can anyone tell me anything out of the ordinary about this pic?
08-24-2005, 02:28 PM
#6004
Tech Apprentice
So do I only need one toeblock to adjust the car? Or do I need to buy four, as in one for each wheel? Why would you want less traction by the way?
08-24-2005, 07:21 PM
#6005
you should get all three in aluminum. You are actually changing the toe in inboard instead of outboard so you do not need a block for each wheel. And as far why would you want less traction....just wait til you are on high bite and your car pushes to the wall, then you will appreciate less rear forward bite.
08-25-2005, 01:49 AM
#6006
Tech Apprentice
Ok cool. So with the wheels that come with the team kit, are they stuck on already? Or do you have to glue them on to the rims yourself? And what size are they?
08-25-2005, 05:55 AM
#6007
Seabelt: If you are going to race, do not use the tires that come with the kit. You will only drive yourself crazy! Here is a good starting point if you plan to race...
Rubber tires: Pre-mounted Take-Off CS-27's
Foam tires: Front = Jaco plaid (orange/purple)
Rear = Jaco purple
Rubber tires: Pre-mounted Take-Off CS-27's
Foam tires: Front = Jaco plaid (orange/purple)
Rear = Jaco purple
08-25-2005, 06:55 AM
#6008
RANDOMFELLOW: RIGHT!
S_FENDER: RIGHT!
There are a few other additives. Its a TC3 chassis with TC4 FRONT arms on both ends of the car, using TC3 suspension blocks worked to accept the TC4 hingepins, and allowing shims to be used to adjust roll center, as in the TC4. Notice the front rear mount (which is actually an "F" block), notched in the middle to allow the mount to go up a full .090 (more than the TC4). If you look closely, the screws that mount the suspension arm blocks come up through the top of the block next to the hingepin, like the aluminum mounts on the TC4. This actually presses the screw next to the hingepin, and has bulletproofed the arms, and from bent hingepins. This car has been in a few hard hits since its "conception", and all that let go was a left rear hub. No arms, no hingepins, no suspension blocks. Those are Losi XXX-S hubs (0 degree, non-offset), and using the rear R+3+2 mount, this gives the car a little less than 2 degrees of total rear toe. A little modification to the rear hubs was necessary (removal of the boss for the setscrew that holds the hingepin). This modification has allowed me to run the car with ALOT of steering, and similar tire wear front to rear (on foams anyways, it pushes with rubbers, its only been on asphalt once, in MD at the Coliseum track). The TC4 setups alot of guys have been running have moved the front shocks to the outer lower holes on the front arms, and further out on the tower. I decided to work with the rear of the car instead. The offset of the front arms allows the rear dogbones to angle the same as the front dogbones. The mounting point for the front and rear swaybar on the arm is identical, unlike the TC4 rear arms, that move the swaybar mount back considerably. Shock angle from tower to arm is the same front and rear. And with using a standup ballstud in the rear hubs (as is used in the front hubs) the angle of the camber rod from tower to hub (with 2 degree caster blocks up front and the hingpins flat) when looking down on the car is almost identical front and rear. .050 of adjustment under the hub ballstud front and rear for rollcenter is possible (foams, more for rubbers). The angle of the dogbones is something you only really notice with more motor, the car transitions VERY smooth on and off power into/through the corners. (ALOT like an XRAY FK05, except you can feel/see the suspension work w/o having to soften it up as much) The car isnt overly agressive, like TC3's are known for, but it still feels like a slot car, like a TC3 did. (it doesnt burn off the front tires (foams) smaller than the rears either, like the TC3 did) So why the TC3 chassis? Im diehard AE (hardhead), and refused to get a BMI chassis to combat flex. The TC3 tub is alot stiffer than the TC4 tub, and AE hadnt released a dual deck setup yet (YET!), so this was my fix for the problem. (not to mention, i cant stand the way the TC4's steering rack feels on the track...it felt as awkward to me as tryin to pick someone elses nose... i put a TC3 rack in the TC4 tub, but it was only part of the answer i was lookin for) Finally, i am using the TC4 towers and ballstud mounts, they allow for so much more adjustment than the TC3 parts ever could. XXX-S front caster blocks and steering knuckles top it all off. Its only been on the track a handful of times, but it is a capable car. Hopefully i will have it dialed in for the nats warmup race in NC!
- DaveW
S_FENDER: RIGHT!
There are a few other additives. Its a TC3 chassis with TC4 FRONT arms on both ends of the car, using TC3 suspension blocks worked to accept the TC4 hingepins, and allowing shims to be used to adjust roll center, as in the TC4. Notice the front rear mount (which is actually an "F" block), notched in the middle to allow the mount to go up a full .090 (more than the TC4). If you look closely, the screws that mount the suspension arm blocks come up through the top of the block next to the hingepin, like the aluminum mounts on the TC4. This actually presses the screw next to the hingepin, and has bulletproofed the arms, and from bent hingepins. This car has been in a few hard hits since its "conception", and all that let go was a left rear hub. No arms, no hingepins, no suspension blocks. Those are Losi XXX-S hubs (0 degree, non-offset), and using the rear R+3+2 mount, this gives the car a little less than 2 degrees of total rear toe. A little modification to the rear hubs was necessary (removal of the boss for the setscrew that holds the hingepin). This modification has allowed me to run the car with ALOT of steering, and similar tire wear front to rear (on foams anyways, it pushes with rubbers, its only been on asphalt once, in MD at the Coliseum track). The TC4 setups alot of guys have been running have moved the front shocks to the outer lower holes on the front arms, and further out on the tower. I decided to work with the rear of the car instead. The offset of the front arms allows the rear dogbones to angle the same as the front dogbones. The mounting point for the front and rear swaybar on the arm is identical, unlike the TC4 rear arms, that move the swaybar mount back considerably. Shock angle from tower to arm is the same front and rear. And with using a standup ballstud in the rear hubs (as is used in the front hubs) the angle of the camber rod from tower to hub (with 2 degree caster blocks up front and the hingpins flat) when looking down on the car is almost identical front and rear. .050 of adjustment under the hub ballstud front and rear for rollcenter is possible (foams, more for rubbers). The angle of the dogbones is something you only really notice with more motor, the car transitions VERY smooth on and off power into/through the corners. (ALOT like an XRAY FK05, except you can feel/see the suspension work w/o having to soften it up as much) The car isnt overly agressive, like TC3's are known for, but it still feels like a slot car, like a TC3 did. (it doesnt burn off the front tires (foams) smaller than the rears either, like the TC3 did) So why the TC3 chassis? Im diehard AE (hardhead), and refused to get a BMI chassis to combat flex. The TC3 tub is alot stiffer than the TC4 tub, and AE hadnt released a dual deck setup yet (YET!), so this was my fix for the problem. (not to mention, i cant stand the way the TC4's steering rack feels on the track...it felt as awkward to me as tryin to pick someone elses nose... i put a TC3 rack in the TC4 tub, but it was only part of the answer i was lookin for) Finally, i am using the TC4 towers and ballstud mounts, they allow for so much more adjustment than the TC3 parts ever could. XXX-S front caster blocks and steering knuckles top it all off. Its only been on the track a handful of times, but it is a capable car. Hopefully i will have it dialed in for the nats warmup race in NC!
- DaveW
Last edited by xDeeDubYax; 08-25-2005 at 06:57 AM. Reason: misspelled words
08-25-2005, 12:28 PM
#6009
anyone have the FT TC4 yet? i know tower shipped quite a few out. just wanted to see what your first impression of that car was. i used to be a big tc3 guy but have moved to full HPI/HB. but i still love the fact that the FT TC4 is a top car with a lower price. $320 for a FT from rc model. now there is a nice price
08-25-2005, 12:49 PM
#6010
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
RANDOMFELLOW: RIGHT!
S_FENDER: RIGHT!
There are a few other additives. Its a TC3 chassis with TC4 FRONT arms on both ends of the car, using TC3 suspension blocks worked to accept the TC4 hingepins, and allowing shims to be used to adjust roll center, as in the TC4. Notice the front rear mount (which is actually an "F" block), notched in the middle to allow the mount to go up a full .090 (more than the TC4). If you look closely, the screws that mount the suspension arm blocks come up through the top of the block next to the hingepin, like the aluminum mounts on the TC4. This actually presses the screw next to the hingepin, and has bulletproofed the arms, and from bent hingepins. This car has been in a few hard hits since its "conception", and all that let go was a left rear hub. No arms, no hingepins, no suspension blocks. Those are Losi XXX-S hubs (0 degree, non-offset), and using the rear R+3+2 mount, this gives the car a little less than 2 degrees of total rear toe. A little modification to the rear hubs was necessary (removal of the boss for the setscrew that holds the hingepin). This modification has allowed me to run the car with ALOT of steering, and similar tire wear front to rear (on foams anyways, it pushes with rubbers, its only been on asphalt once, in MD at the Coliseum track). The TC4 setups alot of guys have been running have moved the front shocks to the outer lower holes on the front arms, and further out on the tower. I decided to work with the rear of the car instead. The offset of the front arms allows the rear dogbones to angle the same as the front dogbones. The mounting point for the front and rear swaybar on the arm is identical, unlike the TC4 rear arms, that move the swaybar mount back considerably. Shock angle from tower to arm is the same front and rear. And with using a standup ballstud in the rear hubs (as is used in the front hubs) the angle of the camber rod from tower to hub (with 2 degree caster blocks up front and the hingpins flat) when looking down on the car is almost identical front and rear. .050 of adjustment under the hub ballstud front and rear for rollcenter is possible (foams, more for rubbers). The angle of the dogbones is something you only really notice with more motor, the car transitions VERY smooth on and off power into/through the corners. (ALOT like an XRAY FK05, except you can feel/see the suspension work w/o having to soften it up as much) The car isnt overly agressive, like TC3's are known for, but it still feels like a slot car, like a TC3 did. (it doesnt burn off the front tires (foams) smaller than the rears either, like the TC3 did) So why the TC3 chassis? Im diehard AE (hardhead), and refused to get a BMI chassis to combat flex. The TC3 tub is alot stiffer than the TC4 tub, and AE hadnt released a dual deck setup yet (YET!), so this was my fix for the problem. (not to mention, i cant stand the way the TC4's steering rack feels on the track...it felt as awkward to me as tryin to pick someone elses nose... i put a TC3 rack in the TC4 tub, but it was only part of the answer i was lookin for) Finally, i am using the TC4 towers and ballstud mounts, they allow for so much more adjustment than the TC3 parts ever could. XXX-S front caster blocks and steering knuckles top it all off. Its only been on the track a handful of times, but it is a capable car. Hopefully i will have it dialed in for the nats warmup race in NC!
- DaveW
S_FENDER: RIGHT!
There are a few other additives. Its a TC3 chassis with TC4 FRONT arms on both ends of the car, using TC3 suspension blocks worked to accept the TC4 hingepins, and allowing shims to be used to adjust roll center, as in the TC4. Notice the front rear mount (which is actually an "F" block), notched in the middle to allow the mount to go up a full .090 (more than the TC4). If you look closely, the screws that mount the suspension arm blocks come up through the top of the block next to the hingepin, like the aluminum mounts on the TC4. This actually presses the screw next to the hingepin, and has bulletproofed the arms, and from bent hingepins. This car has been in a few hard hits since its "conception", and all that let go was a left rear hub. No arms, no hingepins, no suspension blocks. Those are Losi XXX-S hubs (0 degree, non-offset), and using the rear R+3+2 mount, this gives the car a little less than 2 degrees of total rear toe. A little modification to the rear hubs was necessary (removal of the boss for the setscrew that holds the hingepin). This modification has allowed me to run the car with ALOT of steering, and similar tire wear front to rear (on foams anyways, it pushes with rubbers, its only been on asphalt once, in MD at the Coliseum track). The TC4 setups alot of guys have been running have moved the front shocks to the outer lower holes on the front arms, and further out on the tower. I decided to work with the rear of the car instead. The offset of the front arms allows the rear dogbones to angle the same as the front dogbones. The mounting point for the front and rear swaybar on the arm is identical, unlike the TC4 rear arms, that move the swaybar mount back considerably. Shock angle from tower to arm is the same front and rear. And with using a standup ballstud in the rear hubs (as is used in the front hubs) the angle of the camber rod from tower to hub (with 2 degree caster blocks up front and the hingpins flat) when looking down on the car is almost identical front and rear. .050 of adjustment under the hub ballstud front and rear for rollcenter is possible (foams, more for rubbers). The angle of the dogbones is something you only really notice with more motor, the car transitions VERY smooth on and off power into/through the corners. (ALOT like an XRAY FK05, except you can feel/see the suspension work w/o having to soften it up as much) The car isnt overly agressive, like TC3's are known for, but it still feels like a slot car, like a TC3 did. (it doesnt burn off the front tires (foams) smaller than the rears either, like the TC3 did) So why the TC3 chassis? Im diehard AE (hardhead), and refused to get a BMI chassis to combat flex. The TC3 tub is alot stiffer than the TC4 tub, and AE hadnt released a dual deck setup yet (YET!), so this was my fix for the problem. (not to mention, i cant stand the way the TC4's steering rack feels on the track...it felt as awkward to me as tryin to pick someone elses nose... i put a TC3 rack in the TC4 tub, but it was only part of the answer i was lookin for) Finally, i am using the TC4 towers and ballstud mounts, they allow for so much more adjustment than the TC3 parts ever could. XXX-S front caster blocks and steering knuckles top it all off. Its only been on the track a handful of times, but it is a capable car. Hopefully i will have it dialed in for the nats warmup race in NC!
- DaveW
So, do I get a gold star?
Just make sure to keep that thing away from a group of villagers with torches, or it will go on a berzerker rampage.
Argh, fire! Fire! Me no like fire! Argh!
08-25-2005, 01:27 PM
#6011
FT TC4's Shipping from TowerHobbies
First off Hello to all. I have been reading several posts here ove rthe past few days and just purchased a FT TC4 the other day and it is now shipping from TH's.
I post this because there have been several posts asking when they will be available. Looks like they are now.
This is my first sedan (on-road car). I have raced 2WD Buggies in the past and currently bash with a Revo-RB TM 323 nitro truck. Decided to start out with the best in electric on-road.
Hope to keep you posted on my progress. Now I have to wait for the delivery, bulild it and purchase the motor, esc, servo and batteries etc. in additon to find a place to run/race it.
I live in Houston, TX - Where are people racing on-road in Houston?
What do you recommend for the motor -
brushed?
brushless?
What about the ESC
brushed?
brushless?
combo?
What about Batteries
NiMh?
Lipo?
What about Tires and Wheels?
Carpet?
Asphalt?
Concrete?
Thank you for your help,
K
I post this because there have been several posts asking when they will be available. Looks like they are now.
This is my first sedan (on-road car). I have raced 2WD Buggies in the past and currently bash with a Revo-RB TM 323 nitro truck. Decided to start out with the best in electric on-road.
Hope to keep you posted on my progress. Now I have to wait for the delivery, bulild it and purchase the motor, esc, servo and batteries etc. in additon to find a place to run/race it.
I live in Houston, TX - Where are people racing on-road in Houston?
What do you recommend for the motor -
brushed?
brushless?
What about the ESC
brushed?
brushless?
combo?
What about Batteries
NiMh?
Lipo?
What about Tires and Wheels?
Carpet?
Asphalt?
Concrete?
Thank you for your help,
K
08-26-2005, 02:00 AM
#6012
Tech Apprentice
Ok. How are the shocks that come with the TC4 Team Kit? Think I should get TRF Fluorine shocks for it?
08-26-2005, 06:45 AM
#6013
Originally Posted by Seatbelt
Ok. How are the shocks that come with the TC4 Team Kit? Think I should get TRF Fluorine shocks for it?
08-26-2005, 07:30 AM
#6014
where do u guys get ur trf shocks besides Tower Hobbies???thanks
08-26-2005, 12:57 PM
#6015
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
shock caps & bladders
I have been trying to find the yokomo shock caps & bladders online for months with no luck.
any suggestions where who try online.
I have also noted that some people use the rayspeed bladders.
if so how effective are yoko bladders with standard composite caps or are they better with the Assoc alloy shock caps (do they even work with alloy caps?)
any suggestions where who try online.
I have also noted that some people use the rayspeed bladders.
if so how effective are yoko bladders with standard composite caps or are they better with the Assoc alloy shock caps (do they even work with alloy caps?)