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Old 01-22-2018, 10:40 AM   #15436
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Steve. New VTA rules?
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Old 01-23-2018, 01:30 PM   #15437
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Steve. New VTA rules?
Yes, the US and Canadian VTA rules now require a 25.5 motor down from the 21.5.
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Old 01-23-2018, 01:40 PM   #15438
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Yeah Racing 55mm aluminum shock update #3

As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the stock plastic shocks on my TC4 Club Racer with a set from Yeah Racing. They build well but I found them very stiff and felt they should be better. I was still able to take TQ and win the Amain in the last two races but the stiffness was bothering me.

Today I took them apart again and noticed that the clear O-rings supplied were too tight on the shock shaft. I replaced them all with some from Tamiya and along with some AE Green Slime rebuilt all 4 shocks. They are so much better now it's like night and day. Thought folks might want to know.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:28 PM   #15439
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Yes, the US and Canadian VTA rules now require a 25.5 motor down from the 21.5.
US VTA has always been 25.5. I think the Canadians are following the standard 25.5 now. They always try to get away with something... :-)
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Old 01-23-2018, 03:15 PM   #15440
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US VTA has always been 25.5. I think the Canadians are following the standard 25.5 now. They always try to get away with something... :-)
Only if we can....eh.
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Old 01-24-2018, 10:11 AM   #15441
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Default tub or carbon?

just curious if anyone has found the tub chassis to be more effective on Black carpet. My Diggity was a monster on grey carpet.

I want to build a VTA from the Tub, but was looking for some feedback on black carpet, any help is welcome.
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:03 AM   #15442
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Making progress. Not sure why they've changed the rear body post locations with this shock tower. Roughly half way between the original TC4 holes and TC5 holes which is too close to re-drill on my current body.
You can always use the stock rear shock tower and your body post holes would line up again.
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:51 AM   #15443
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You can always use the stock rear shock tower and your body post holes would line up again.
That's the plan until I get some custom shock towers made up to allow me to use short shocks from my Tamiya Mini cars. I'll see if I can get it to match the TC5 post locations so I can share bodies between my cars.
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:06 AM   #15444
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Making progress. Not sure why they've changed the rear body post locations with this shock tower. Roughly half way between the original TC4 holes and TC5 holes which is too close to re-drill on my current body.
I might be interested in taking that shock tower off your hands if you have no need for it
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Old 01-28-2018, 01:55 PM   #15445
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Now that I’m completely satisfied with the KFR conversion build I’ve decided to start an “ultimate tub racer” build using a bunch of leftovers as well as some new parts. Btw the tub chassis is on sale for $10 on the Associated website. Last night I completed all the necessary dremelling and started piecing things together. I’m debating wether or not I want to get some tc7.1 dcv shafts like I did with my Kaizen build or keep the pretty blue shafts. Only arm mount I need to finish matching them all is the blue square mount.


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Old 01-28-2018, 02:25 PM   #15446
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Now that I’m completely satisfied with the KFR conversion build I’ve decided to start an “ultimate tub racer” build using a bunch of leftovers as well as some new parts. Btw the tub chassis is on sale for $10 on the Associated website. Last night I completed all the necessary dremelling and started piecing things together. I’m debating wether or not I want to get some tc7.1 dcv shafts like I did with my Kaizen build or keep the pretty blue shafts. Only arm mount I need to finish matching them all is the blue square mount.


I like what you did there with the battery. What components did you use to do that?
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Old 01-28-2018, 02:34 PM   #15447
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Thanks dude. It’s the TC7.1 ‘Factory team hook & loop battery strap kit’ (asc31645). I just needed to trim the outer side of the “L” brackets to fit the lipo in then drill the tapered screw holes in the chassis. Fits like a glove.
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Old 01-28-2018, 04:23 PM   #15448
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Thanks dude. It’s the TC7.1 ‘Factory team hook & loop battery strap kit’ (asc31645). I just needed to trim the outer side of the “L” brackets to fit the lipo in then drill the tapered screw holes in the chassis. Fits like a glove.
I'll give that a shot. Any chance you could show some up close pictures? Did the screws come with the kit? If not, what screws did you use to secure it to the chassis?
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Old 01-28-2018, 04:54 PM   #15449
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Yeah Racing 55mm aluminum shock update #3

As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the stock plastic shocks on my TC4 Club Racer with a set from Yeah Racing. They build well but I found them very stiff and felt they should be better. I was still able to take TQ and win the Amain in the last two races but the stiffness was bothering me.

Today I took them apart again and noticed that the clear O-rings supplied were too tight on the shock shaft. I replaced them all with some from Tamiya and along with some AE Green Slime rebuilt all 4 shocks. They are so much better now it's like night and day. Thought folks might want to know.
I put 55 on my sprint 60’s on my tc3 and tc4 and for me the 60’s response and handling was spot on.


Today was my first center driveshaft kaboom.
It was probably my fault. Cause I was having a deans connection problem
And I blipped the throttle to make sure it wasn’t going to shut off.
Rear drive cup split in half and shaft looks like a spaghetti noodle
Car is so old and something bound to break sooner or later
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:59 PM   #15450
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I'll give that a shot. Any chance you could show some up close pictures? Did the screws come with the kit? If not, what screws did you use to secure it to the chassis?
Screws were not included, I just found some m3 flatheads I had sitting around. There are supposed to be two per side but I’ve had success with only using one. Here are some more detailed pics.


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