32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I have a tc4 rtr and want to install a low profile servo. I tried to put an Alturn one in but it wouldn't fit, it was fouling the chassis. How can I overcome this ?

pejota

iTrader: (12)

So how large of a pinion could you fit on there?
Looks like it will go way out which is a good thing considering the internal ratio.

PJRacer

I use a 55/40 combo, Based on the measurements I just took it should fit with a 72/40. will try make some time to fit the 72 later.

What combo did you have in mind?

PJRacer

Okay so this is what I found regarding Pinion sizes

With the 55 Spur I can fit pinion sizes from 31 to 40, 41 is possible but a bit tricky because the pinion gets in the way of the screw,

With 75 Spur I can fit 22(smallest I have) to 40 Pinion.

The smallest Spur I can use is a 52 with 35 to 40 pinion

So what this means is you can get an FDR anywhere from 3.25 (52/40) to 8.5 (75/22),

What chassis do you have DC4 or FTTC4?

PJRacer

Just wanted everyone to know I have had to temporarily remove the motor mount from the store.

I have had a rejection for the stainless steel model. I removed some material to bring the weight down but this caused it to fail printing. I have rectified the problem but would feel safer if I waited for the prototype to be printed and sent to me for checking before making it available to you.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Without more information, I assume that the servo horn is probably rubbing on the chassis, possibly the cross brace in front of the chassis?

The first thing to make sure is that you have properly shimmed the servo in the car. The stock plastic servo mounts came with thin and thick 2 hole shims. These are used to move the servo more forward on the chassis so that the servo horn/ball stud is at the proper orientation. If you have access to the manual, the section on installing the servo has a list of servos and which shim(s) to use. If your servo isn't listed, you will have to figure out which shims (if any) to use.

If the issue is that the servo is too low and the horn is rubbing on the chassis cross brace, then you could always use the shims to raise the servo up until it clears that chassis. If you are using the stock servo arm, you may want to do this anyway so that the steering geometry/location of the arm ball stud is at the proper height.

Here is a link to an exploded view of a TC4 where you can see the servo mounts and the shims...

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...ing_tc4rtr.pdf

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Of course you can always modify the chassis to get the servo to fit.

The TC4 tub chassis car was designed with full size servos in mind, so you may need to modify the chassis to get a lower profile servo to work to your preferences. You may need to remove any area of the chassis that is interfering with the servo. If you have access to a file or rotary tool, it shouldn't take too long to modify the chassis. Remember to remove as little material as possible.

The TC4 tub chassis was designed with foam tire touring car racing in mind, so the chassis is very stiff overall. Removing a little material shouldn't affect the handling of the car as long as you don't make the chassis look like swiss cheese.

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One final thought about servos. Many people like to change out the stock servo horns on their r/c cars with aftermarket parts. If the replacement horn places the ball stud at a different location than the stock horn, it will affect the throw of the servo and/or cause binding. Always make sure to take measurements of a stock/supported servo (horn) before installing any aftermarket parts so that the steering geometry works properly.

I should add that some people change out steering components with aftermarket parts or parts from other kits to purposely change the steering geometry on their cars. R/C drift enthusiasts are the best example as they require extreme steering angles to achieve the desired handling.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Indy. I also tried to fit a Kimbrough servo saver, but that won't fit either. I re-installed the kit servo as it cane out. I'm planning on running it in tc tomorrow. I bought the car for outside , but am running it inside on carpet tomorrow.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Changed from 48 to 64 pitch for a finer tuning in VTA.

With some chassis and motor mount modding was able to get 88/90 spur and 55 pinion.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tc4-jrx-s.html

Ralph 289 selling those sought after Losi LCD driveshafts, I would have snatched them up myself but I don't need them, as I already have a spare.

PJRacer

Hi Guys,

Thought I would share what progress I have made on my DCV/LCD conversion using what is available today.

This conversion required some custom design of new hub carrier and Steering arm, Other parts included the following

Schumacher MI6 Steering Hubs ($8)
Schumacher MI6 Kingpin ($7)
Hobbyking Double Joint CVD ($10)
4x 4x7x2.5 Flange Bearings ($1.50 each)
4x wheel bearings and crush tube

My Custom Designed parts
Steering Arms ($9)
Hub Carrier 0/2/4/6 Degrees ($20 for full set)

The TC7 DCV's also work instead of the Hobbyking parts but cost a lot more.

The Steering arms are not required if you are using the Schumacher steering arms, but the Schumacher arms change the geometry of the steering and I wanted it to be as close as possible to the original geometry.

I have also created a short version of the steering arm which makes it a bit more aggressive (1.5mm shorter)

Total conversion cost about $60 but requires no major Dremel work, the steering also now has a lot less slop than the stock steering.

I'm just waiting for the final prototypes to arrive from shapeways before I cab make them available.

testing so far seemed positive.

Let me know what you guys think.

PJRacer

Here are more Pictures.

Will post pics of the samples when I receive them from shapeways

MontanaMaxx

iTrader: (12)

I snagged these

Joe Maxey

iTrader: (14)

Jealous..... If anyone else have some Losi 3344 please let me know. I'm new to the Tc4 family. I'm running 25.5Tc with mine. So far I'm really having a great time with mine.

Thanks guys!

DMD

iTrader: (1)

Looks amazing. Anxious to see the test results. 👍🏻

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

Working out final kinks on this one... The base part that attaches to the motor is the same for both FT and std mounts...