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Old 11-03-2004, 11:38 AM   #361
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sg1... what are you doing posting on the forums. Don't you have work to do. <insert whip sound here>
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Old 11-03-2004, 12:10 PM   #362
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I'm wearing down.... too much work....
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Old 11-03-2004, 12:18 PM   #363
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Wayne:

send some of it up here....I have plenty of time.
See you at Cleveland
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:45 AM   #364
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Wayne,

I have some question regarding wheelbase on the BMI car. I was with a friend last night comparing my Hyperdrive(L3) and his CEFX.

When compared to the 2 cars, the overall wheelbase on my car is longer. CEFX was shorter by about ¼ of an inch.

When we lined up the cars by the t-plate, the distance between the rear pivot ball and the rear axle on the CEFX was longer vs. the Hyperdrive. Then, the distance between the rear t-plate pivot ball and front axle on the CEFX is a lot shorter then the Hyperdrive to compensate the extended rear axle but yet still have an overall shorter wheelbase.

From my understanding is that the L4 in comparison to the L3, had shortened the wheelbase by maybe ¼ of an inch.

Now, my question is…..where does the BMI wheelbase fits in this picture?

One of the big advantage with the CEFX was that the rear pods was extended, therefore you can jam a 37 pinions in there and there’s plenty of room to move the motor forward, which isn’t possible in the traditional L3/Hyperdrive cars.

Thanks,
Dom
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Last edited by litespeed-dom; 11-04-2004 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:08 AM   #365
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Dom, great points, I've been wondering that also. Add to the list the battery distance to the rear wheel centerline. What is the distance on those cars (or the "distances" of the options if it can be moved)?

take care
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:42 AM   #366
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Just got off the phone with Jason. He said it'll be the same wheelbase as the L4.

Also he said the kit is almost there, probably another week or so, looking at mid-November.

Dom
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:23 AM   #367
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NICE, Thanks for the info. Might have to hurry and get a car dialed for the Tri Cities race in Dec.
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:30 AM   #368
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
NICE, Thanks for the info. Might have to hurry and get a car dialed for the Tri Cities race in Dec.
Yeah, that's what I have in mind too! Just in time for the Tri Cities race.

Dom
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:30 PM   #369
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Can anyone tell me what kind of tubes are these? And seems like the ball ends use 4/40 ball studs, compare to my CRC tubes now that uses 2/56 ball studs. I'm trying to get all my parts prepared for the BMI car. I'm assuming the chssis brace and top plate will be drilled out for 4/40 holes meaning my tubes now probably wouldn't work on the BMI car.

thanks,
Dom


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Old 11-04-2004, 12:36 PM   #370
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My guess is speed merchant, but I think there's are plastic. They also could just be the CRC tubes then were annodized. aah...maybe I'm just guessing.
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Old 11-04-2004, 01:55 PM   #371
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litespeed-dom - Won't tubes be included with the kit? Or has jason decided to include discs?
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Old 11-04-2004, 01:59 PM   #372
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
litespeed-dom - Won't tubes be included with the kit? Or has jason decided to include discs?
As far as I know, he'll include 2 top plates, one for tubes, one for plates. But you'll have to supply your own tubes or plates. What Jason said earlier today and if I heard him right....The conversion kit comes with all the graphite pieces, standoffs, and rear bulkheads and that's it.

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Old 11-04-2004, 05:00 PM   #373
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Hey Guys...
The wheel base on the BMI conversion is very close to the L4... The distance from the rear pivot to the axle is a bit shorter. I felt the longer the distance from the t-plate to the axle, the more the car would "whip" the ass threw the turn and wasn't stable or consistant. I tried numerous locations and this was the best overall.
The tubes on the pic were CRC tubes with 2/56 ball studs. They are there short anodized ones and I put white dubro ends on and red o-rings to take some slop out.
The conversion itself will have:
Chassis plate
cross brace
lower pod plate
upper pod plate for tubes
upper pod plate for disks
pod plates
stand offs
antenna mount
dampening post
dampening springs
A few misc. fastners

Wayne
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:04 PM   #374
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Thanks Wayne! I've been checking email all day waiting for your reply. Thanks!

What's your thought on countersinking all the graphite pieces that use button heads?

Dom
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:29 PM   #375
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Litespeed...
I tried the cross brace with flat heads... If it's not 100% lined up the chassis tweeks. I had Jason put button heads on the cross brace and drill it out so there is some clearance so the chassis doesn't get tweeked. We did put flat heads on the top plates of the rear pod. The aluminum is strong enough and we went to 2-56 flat heads so we didn't have to add graphite to the top plates, plus some bodies would touch the button heads.
Wayne
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