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Old 01-12-2006, 10:00 PM   #1576
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Wayne - Do you roll in some throttle trim to make the car roll forward at trigger neutral? I use a tiny amount of this to negate the cogging/braking of the stock motor. Would you say this would affect the battery position?

I also can run almost full throttle around any layout...but isn't that a really bad idea? A stock motor has a fixed amount of HP. In a tight carousel you could hold full throttle or 1/2 throttle and still go the same speed. Full throttle would just heat the motor and use up battery capacity.

Please note that I am not challenging you. You are a heck of a lot faster than I will every be. If I am wrong I just want to understand why .
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:07 AM   #1577
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Default t plate?

Are you guys running 3 scews or 2 scews in the t-plare?

What are you using for a spacers between t-plate and lower pod plate?
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:15 AM   #1578
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on carpet, definately 3
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Old 01-13-2006, 08:24 AM   #1579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1sportbike
Are you guys running 3 scews or 2 scews in the t-plare?

What are you using for a spacers between t-plate and lower pod plate?
some people run 2 some run 3.i ran 3 at the warm up race for the snowbirds.try it out and see which feels better to you.
i use aluminum washers to space the pod with the t plate.i think take off have some and i will be making some nice front end spacers and washer plates for the rear real soon.
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:09 PM   #1580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1sportbike
Are you guys running 3 scews or 2 scews in the t-plare?

What are you using for a spacers between t-plate and lower pod plate?
It a matter of choice. 3 screws is not the definate choice for carpet. Look at the top cars in Stock and Mod and it is mixed up, but I see more with 2 than 3.

Lower bite or need the rear end more responsive and locked in, 3 screws. High bite and smooth, 2 screws. (2 screws for CEFX) It's what has always worked for me.

I have also used a broken t-plate as a shim, like the stock plastic L4 shims best.

Like Jason said, play around.

You break less t-plates with 3 screws.

Tim
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:18 PM   #1581
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i guess i don't understand, but the best site for info on the 1/12 is Mike Lufaso's site. and here are his comments

In general, the 2 washers makes the front the back softer, making it better for the bumps and increasing rear traction. Three washers stiffens front toback and decreases traction. Using two washers also increases the chances that the T-plate will become stressed. Look at the T-plate by holding it to the light. If a noticeable color difference is present at the corners, the t-plate needs replaced. I usually prefer to use 3 washers on carpet. I sometimes place a small motor shim (0.010") under the font of the T-plate, which tends to increase rear traction and is often helpful for 1/12 modified.

i have not see many setup info for 1/12 stock, but most of the 1/12 mod factory driver setups that have been posted have 3 screw in the rear for carpet and 2 on asphault.

i guess I am wrong again.
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Last edited by theisgroup; 01-13-2006 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:29 PM   #1582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i guess i don't understand, but the best site for info on the 1/12 is Mike Lufaso's site. and here are his comments

In general, the 2 washers makes the front the back softer, making it better for the bumps and increasing rear traction. Three washers stiffens front toback and decreases traction. Using two washers also increases the chances that the T-plate will become stressed. Look at the T-plate by holding it to the light. If a noticeable color difference is present at the corners, the t-plate needs replaced. I usually prefer to use 3 washers on carpet. I sometimes place a small motor shim (0.010") under the font of the T-plate, which tends to increase rear traction and is often helpful for 1/12 modified.

i have not see many setup info for 1/12 stock, but most of the 1/12 mod factory driver setups that have been posted have 3 screw in the rear for carpet and 2 on asphault.

i guess I am wrong again.
Nope. not wrong... I don't know why people take opinions as a cut downs.

The BMI 12th is an aggressive car that gererates a lot of front bite. A 2 screw setup on high bite carpet makes the car easier to handle.

That was what I was getting at.

I worked on his car today and for right now, 3 screws would work better for durability.

I ran 2 and 3 screws today on the car. 2 screws was faster for me.

Tim
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:36 PM   #1583
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Tim,

Thanks for all of your help today. I can't wait to run the BMI car on Tuesday. I also appreciate all the help you gave on my current car(Trinity Black Widow). My lap time drop almost a full second, and I can feel more to come.

Kevan
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:42 PM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1sportbike
Tim,

Thanks for all of your help today. I can't wait to run the BMI car on Tuesday. I also appreciate all the help you gave on my current car(Trinity Black Widow). My lap time drop almost a full second, and I can feel more to come.

Kevan
No problem. You will like the BMI. It is smooth but aggressive.

I'll try to stop by Tuesday.

Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 01:42 PM   #1585
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2 or 3 screws is just a tuning option not a rule. At the Snowbirds (super high traction carpet) a couple of years ago Mark Smyka won with a .063" t-bar running 2 screws. Why did he do that? Becuase the track was super bumpy and this made his car faster.
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Old 01-15-2006, 05:33 PM   #1586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Stamper
Nope. not wrong... I don't know why people take opinions as a cut downs.

The BMI 12th is an aggressive car that gererates a lot of front bite. A 2 screw setup on high bite carpet makes the car easier to handle.

That was what I was getting at.

I worked on his car today and for right now, 3 screws would work better for durability.

I ran 2 and 3 screws today on the car. 2 screws was faster for me.

Tim
well,

i am glad I have been reading this thread. I tried 2 screws today. we are running last year's snow birds layout with the crc fast track. I am sure that we do nto have even half the tracktion as the birds, but still pretty high. The 2 screws and batteries further to the rear mad the car transition alot faster. I was able to get an extra lap from last weekend and also went up a tooth and was one a 2 lap faster pace then last week. so I guess, it does help to run a 2 screw setup when the bite comes up and if you have a couple of tight twisties.

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Old 01-15-2006, 07:18 PM   #1587
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My car was the best it has ever been today. I ran 2 screws and I had the batteries 1/4 inch from the back.

Front:
3.5mm Ride height
5 degree blocks shimmed middle
.020 springs
jaco purple 2 stage

Mid:
30wt oil
Olive green spring
Associated stealth lube on dampener discs
Orange spring on top and blue on bottom of disc.
(don't ask, it just feels better)

Rear:
.075 T-plate
.010 shim under front t-plate pivot
2 screws in t-plate with black asc spacers
4mm ride height
Jaco 2 stage dbl pink rears

Motor:
Monster stock
Green/Green
eXtreme X1 negative rounded and slotted
eXtreme X2 positive rounded and slotted
(Billy easton brush butcher)
Motor pulled 6.8A at 1.5v free rev after 5 minute break in.
Rollout 1.73"/rev

Body:
Proto Speed 12

I had bad luck qualifying, but I ran one heck of a B-main run. Fast lap of the day was 8.8 and I did a 8.9 8 laps in and before a mishap that spit a body clip off the car. It would have been a strong TQ run. Just need to be sorted better.

So far the car is working better and better every time I run it.

Just need the new pod plates now, hint hint.

Thanks,

Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:35 PM   #1588
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Tim - Have you tried the 10 deg blocks with max caster? I like this better than any setup I have tried with the 5deg blocks.
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:39 PM   #1589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Tim - Have you tried the 10 deg blocks with max caster? I like this better than any setup I have tried with the 5deg blocks.
I ran 10 degree blocks yesterday and all I could say is Holy moly.

I ran them with the arms forward, mid and back and it was okay back, but I didn't feel comfortable.

The car wanted to screw itself into the ground. It carried a ton more speed into the corner, but I felt safer with the 5's on it.

A better driver will appreciate the 10's.

Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:43 PM   #1590
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Adrian,
I always put a little roll in my stock vehicles. As you said they slow down too fast and the cars dive in. I'm sure this would affect the battery position. For my driving style and motor set up I was faster batteries closer to the front, not letting off, and gearing up with an aggressive car. One thing to think about... I noticed if you "roll" the car more and the motor and batteries come back cooler you didn't use the batteries to the full potential. If the batteries come back cool they are not discharging. In stock class I would run IB3800's and come back with 8 to 12 seconds left! Use it all!!! Let the stock motor work... It will still be fast at 130 deg. as long as the batteries are the same temp.
Wayne
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