BMI 1/12 conversion/car
#139
Smooth and predictable.... amen to that.
I'll start nagging jason every hour on the hour starting tomorrow.
On the conversion will I just be able to slap it onto a stock L3 or will I need a few extra L4 parts?
I'll start nagging jason every hour on the hour starting tomorrow.
On the conversion will I just be able to slap it onto a stock L3 or will I need a few extra L4 parts?
#140
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Convert 12L3 to L4 Front end
I would be surprised if the L4 front conversion is included.
If you want to convert the L3 to L4 front, here are the parts:
4564 - Cross brace
4561 - Upper arm mounting blocks
4569 - Hinge pin
3862 - Set screw
I the parts will set you back 8 or 9 dollars. I don't remember, I got 2 complete sets for under $20 I think.
You probably can use the same hinge pin and probably have a set screw in your box, but that's the numbers just in case.
take care
john
If you want to convert the L3 to L4 front, here are the parts:
4564 - Cross brace
4561 - Upper arm mounting blocks
4569 - Hinge pin
3862 - Set screw
I the parts will set you back 8 or 9 dollars. I don't remember, I got 2 complete sets for under $20 I think.
You probably can use the same hinge pin and probably have a set screw in your box, but that's the numbers just in case.
take care
john
#141
I don't see why you couldn't use an L3.. this conversion will only include the changed parts but the frontend, shock, axle/diff should work just fine.
my $.02
my $.02
#142
You can put the new (L3 or L4) or old style front end on, the VCS shock, dampner washers or CRC dampening tubes will fit, and drop in your favorite diff. assembly.
All of the graphite parts, standoffs, fastners, pod plates, new dampening tube, and single point antenna mount will be included.
-Wayne
All of the graphite parts, standoffs, fastners, pod plates, new dampening tube, and single point antenna mount will be included.
-Wayne
#143
John...
I ran a different chassis last year 'cause I thought the L3 chassis was a bit flexible, I tried a few of the guys L4's at our local track and thought the BMI chassis wasn't as aggressive going into the turn, but didn't "stop" in the middle of the turn and carried more speed out of the turn.
-Wayne
I ran a different chassis last year 'cause I thought the L3 chassis was a bit flexible, I tried a few of the guys L4's at our local track and thought the BMI chassis wasn't as aggressive going into the turn, but didn't "stop" in the middle of the turn and carried more speed out of the turn.
-Wayne
#144
Re: Convert 12L3 to L4 Front end
Originally posted by JohnB
I would be surprised if the L4 front conversion is included.
If you want to convert the L3 to L4 front, here are the parts:
4564 - Cross brace
4561 - Upper arm mounting blocks
4569 - Hinge pin
3862 - Set screw
I the parts will set you back 8 or 9 dollars. I don't remember, I got 2 complete sets for under $20 I think.
You probably can use the same hinge pin and probably have a set screw in your box, but that's the numbers just in case.
take care
john
I would be surprised if the L4 front conversion is included.
If you want to convert the L3 to L4 front, here are the parts:
4564 - Cross brace
4561 - Upper arm mounting blocks
4569 - Hinge pin
3862 - Set screw
I the parts will set you back 8 or 9 dollars. I don't remember, I got 2 complete sets for under $20 I think.
You probably can use the same hinge pin and probably have a set screw in your box, but that's the numbers just in case.
take care
john
Thanks for the part numbers. Do you know any hobby shops online that carry them?
Thanks,
James
#145
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I think I ordered mine from KT Hobbies. He doesn't have 12L4 parts listed on the site, just email what you want. I think Stormer has them also.
sg1 - That sounds reasonable. I have not notice the "stop" in the middle, but that would account for lack of exit speed. Maybe their setup?
My son is running the L4 chassis. I haven't driven it a lot, but the little I have it felt good, it rolls through the middle of the corner like a slot car and carries speed well. His car is VERY aggressive into corner though, you have to stay on top it. I can always follow him for a lap or two and catch him easy up or loose it going it a corner.
sg1 - That sounds reasonable. I have not notice the "stop" in the middle, but that would account for lack of exit speed. Maybe their setup?
My son is running the L4 chassis. I haven't driven it a lot, but the little I have it felt good, it rolls through the middle of the corner like a slot car and carries speed well. His car is VERY aggressive into corner though, you have to stay on top it. I can always follow him for a lap or two and catch him easy up or loose it going it a corner.
#146
what kind of car are you driving JohnB?
#147
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I'm back to the L3 right now. Tried the CRC 3.2, was slower with that. I was about ready to get a L4 chassis until I heard about BMI. So far, looks like that'll be my choice, mostly because it still uses the damper disk?.?.? Not really in any hurry until next month. Just club racing right now and the L3 is fine for that. Only problem I have is I got a HPI Pro 4 and it's only about .3 tenths off my 12 scale lap times. That ain't right!!
#148
Wayne , Thanks alot for all the setup info youve had on here lately I applied all of it to my L3 and ran it for the first time tonite. The car was great right from the start. It rotated perfectly with the 100w oil on the plates. I cant wait to get a decent chassis under it. I also have the IRS big ring diff in the car and that is night and day different from the feel of the stock one. Once its warmed up it runs smooth as silk.
Later, Speedie
Later, Speedie
#149
Hey Speediephatt, no problem on the help, that's my job (according to Jason..lol)
I ran the car last night 6 more times, I must say it's time for Jason to start running parts off!! I'll be getting him the updated CAD drawings tonight. It seems to have to different driving styles if you run the tubes or if you run the plates for dampening. There's plenty of adj. if you like the tubes (mounting locations). My car was .8 oz. over weight with a stock M8 reciever and a GT7 speedo. The other car that was tested had a XXL reciever and GM speedo and was .2 oz. under weight. I'm gonna see if Jason can put 1 or 2 more pockets in the chassis and take a bit more off the pod plates to lighten it up a fuzz more.
If you guys run it and have any suggestions or comments feel free to post them or send them to me. I'm open to anything that will make the conversion better.
Thanks,
Wayne
I ran the car last night 6 more times, I must say it's time for Jason to start running parts off!! I'll be getting him the updated CAD drawings tonight. It seems to have to different driving styles if you run the tubes or if you run the plates for dampening. There's plenty of adj. if you like the tubes (mounting locations). My car was .8 oz. over weight with a stock M8 reciever and a GT7 speedo. The other car that was tested had a XXL reciever and GM speedo and was .2 oz. under weight. I'm gonna see if Jason can put 1 or 2 more pockets in the chassis and take a bit more off the pod plates to lighten it up a fuzz more.
If you guys run it and have any suggestions or comments feel free to post them or send them to me. I'm open to anything that will make the conversion better.
Thanks,
Wayne