TC4 picture (+cliff lett)
#286
Tech Master

Originally posted by kewdawg
No added performance value, huh? So, just why do you think the current top car manufacturers (Xray, Hpi, Yokomo, etc.) chose a woven gaphite chassis as their platform?
No added performance value, huh? So, just why do you think the current top car manufacturers (Xray, Hpi, Yokomo, etc.) chose a woven gaphite chassis as their platform?
#287

[QUOTE]Originally posted by webspinner
Team Losi not a top current car manufacturer?
Xray does have a molded chassis car and so does Yokomo. Yokomo's newest chassis is molded.
Top - meaning: winning major races, now. Current meaning: Has produced a touring car within the last year. Oh yeah, add Tamiya to the list.
Yes they do. The molded chassis were released after the woven graphite versions.
Team Losi not a top current car manufacturer?
Xray does have a molded chassis car and so does Yokomo. Yokomo's newest chassis is molded.
Yes they do. The molded chassis were released after the woven graphite versions.

Last edited by kewdawg; 09-07-2004 at 06:37 AM.
#288

Scaughron: No plans for a graphite dual-deck chassis.
Nightbreed: I've seen you on here quite a few times. I know you're a pretty loyal AE supporter Thanks! We listen to people like you to see what might really be a potential problem. The bearing, as far as we know, have never been an issue. As far as I know. Anyway, I'm not sure about how weak it may or may not make the chassis to open up the battery slots. The chassis that is out is the production chassis.
Kingpin ballstud. The steering block hole has been tightened up so the ballstud and the kingpin screw are now tighter.
Nightbreed: I've seen you on here quite a few times. I know you're a pretty loyal AE supporter Thanks! We listen to people like you to see what might really be a potential problem. The bearing, as far as we know, have never been an issue. As far as I know. Anyway, I'm not sure about how weak it may or may not make the chassis to open up the battery slots. The chassis that is out is the production chassis.
Kingpin ballstud. The steering block hole has been tightened up so the ballstud and the kingpin screw are now tighter.
#289
Tech Initiate

TPhalen : let me clarify not looking for dual deck graphite. looking for part number for tub graphite chassis with graphite components.
#290

Howdy yall,
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Paul
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Paul
#291

Originally posted by Lonestar
Howdy yall,
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Whoaaah!!! That thing is killer!! Is that a Yok! I'm really feelin' that thing!
Paul
Howdy yall,
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Whoaaah!!! That thing is killer!! Is that a Yok! I'm really feelin' that thing!
Paul
#292

Originally posted by Lonestar
Howdy yall,
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Paul
Howdy yall,
IMHO double-deck chassis are a PITA. I know, I run one (SD-SSG). And before that, I ran a FT TC3... and before that a Schum Axis (make that two, my longest lasting car)... and before that, Street Weapons (two also)... Plus some additional cars that I just kept for a few races. The ones above are my favorites, and the IWC SW and FTTC3 topped my list.
To me, bathtub chassis are the most user-friendly... Accessibility, tweak-free, lower CG... The only problem usually is weight, which is why I'm still running the 2-deck Yok rather than the CGM.
Oh, yeah, if you want to see some serious "luxury", WCF/bathtub combo, check that out:

later,
Paul

#295

Originally posted by Nightbreed
to pay $280 plus for a TC. I like the fact that AE comes out with a competitive 'Racer' for $150.00. They pass the savings on to the consumer. It's great you can get a real race car for $149.00, with a body and tires. Just get an aftermarket one, that's all I'm saying.
I'm sure they will make one. Plus with the TC4 design you must use the chassis brase in order to use the upper camber links. I think they are one piece.
to pay $280 plus for a TC. I like the fact that AE comes out with a competitive 'Racer' for $150.00. They pass the savings on to the consumer. It's great you can get a real race car for $149.00, with a body and tires. Just get an aftermarket one, that's all I'm saying.


So, you wouldn't pay $280.00 for a touring car? How much do you think it would cost to make a $150.00 kit of any brand, competitive and dominate( driving skills considered average or better)?
#296

Originally posted by kewdawg
A touring car costing $150.00, is competitive only in name. Let's be realistic. A "racer" kit is going to be heavy, slow(from overall weight and a bound-up drivetrain), weak, and in need of some "hand-working"(no pun intended) and aftermarket parts to be competitive.
So, you wouldn't pay $280.00 for a touring car? How much do you think it would cost to make a $150.00 kit of any brand, competitive and dominate( driving skills considered average or better)?
A touring car costing $150.00, is competitive only in name. Let's be realistic. A "racer" kit is going to be heavy, slow(from overall weight and a bound-up drivetrain), weak, and in need of some "hand-working"(no pun intended) and aftermarket parts to be competitive.
So, you wouldn't pay $280.00 for a touring car? How much do you think it would cost to make a $150.00 kit of any brand, competitive and dominate( driving skills considered average or better)?

seriously... locally, I only know of a handful or racers who use more than 80% of their cars! And I've seen some pretty big local shots getting whooped by an experienced friend of mine with a "team" TC3... all the other guys were running fully decked out, three times as expensive cars... I'm talking regional racing here, not international...
later,
Paul
#297

Originally posted by TPhalen
Kingpin ballstud. The steering block hole has been tightened up so the ballstud and the kingpin screw are now tighter.
Kingpin ballstud. The steering block hole has been tightened up so the ballstud and the kingpin screw are now tighter.
Thanks Tony !
You guys did a great job , can`t wait to get my Tc-4.....

#298
Tech Addict
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is it me r is the tc4 $305 at tower hobbies?will i actually have to pay this much for a tc kit?
steven
steven
#300

Originally posted by crACkeD ChaSsiS
is it me r is the tc4 $305 at tower hobbies?will i actually have to pay this much for a tc kit?
steven
is it me r is the tc4 $305 at tower hobbies?will i actually have to pay this much for a tc kit?
steven
he has a pre-order set up.. shipping to texas wont cost too much, so you still come out ahead.

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/97.html