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Old 05-01-2007, 06:56 PM   #1261
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:38 PM   #1262
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:44 PM   #1263
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Although it's been hectic around here for me I just wanted to give a belated thanks to Bruce for all of his help and I'm glad Team Speedmerchant did so well at the Nat's.
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:05 PM   #1264
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Not only can Speeedmarchants 12th scale stock national champ Donny Lia wheel a 12th scale but he can also get it done in a Whelen Modified congrats to Donny on his win at Staffard in the spring sizzler...
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:32 AM   #1265
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Anyone have a good set-up for the Rev4.5 for asphalt racing?

Building a new chassis so I won't have to switch between an asphalt and carpet chassis?

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:33 AM   #1266
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Jeff Brown should have a set-up from last year's asphalt Nats.
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:58 PM   #1267
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Jeff Browns asphalt from the nats last year.

Jaco pink rear, double pink front tires
.018 front springs
4-6 degrees of caster
1 1/2 to 2 degrees of camber
silver center spring, 25 wt. shock oil
new high quality side springs from Speedmerchant, rate close to blue springs
5mm ride height F&R (lower if traction is really high)
1/2 to 1 mm sag at rear of main chassis when race ready
approx. 1 to 1 1/2 degree droop on rear pod at full shock extension
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:36 PM   #1268
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Anyone have any tips for getting the links equal side to side?
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:10 AM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelV
Anyone have any tips for getting the links equal side to side?
Use a caliper and ruler.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:54 AM   #1270
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Check with calipers then with the tweak plate and damper tubes and check to see how smooth it moves.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:50 AM   #1271
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Morning Guys,

Having thrown together literally hundreds of these, I thought i would toss in a few tips to get your Merchant straight and narrow. This is the same process that we use to get team drivers cars ready after a rebuild.

Remove batteries, motor, and tweak plate. Polish all 4 of your outer pivot balls with a metal polish, long screw, and a dremel. Reconnect one link and check for free movement or too much slop. Check the gap on a flat surface. Look at the very end of the lower pod plate and the chassis, and the gaps should be identical to the naked eye.

If its not adjust the gap with only one link on. Reconnect the other link, and check for bound up side to side movement of the rear suspension. If there is a solid bind, the second link you just installed is too short, and lengthen it by 1/8 turn increments until the movement is smooth and free. If the rear suspension feels like it clicks as it moves through the travel, the second link is too long. Shorten it until you’re smooth.

At the end of your rebuilt, its important that your links have just enough tension on them to keep them from having too much slop. Bruce’s little black link o-ring spacers help a ton to get your links tightened down properly. Also its important to make sure your center pivot ball doenst have too much slop, or isnt too tight.

Hope this helps.

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Old 05-14-2007, 10:18 AM   #1272
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On the Dumas set up I dont think it mentions if the battery is forward or back- which is it guys
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:31 AM   #1273
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LOL... just spoke with Dumas and he does not recall.... might wait for Bruce to reply since he does the wrenching for Dumas.

I believe he has a setup posted on the site.
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:05 AM   #1274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
LOL... just spoke with Dumas and he does not recall.... might wait for Bruce to reply since he does the wrenching for Dumas.

I believe he has a setup posted on the site.

Yeah that's the one I'm using- but no battery set up. Anyway I'm running the battery at the back. Seems to give it nice off power turn in with the Dumas set up Anybody notice the differences between the 2 locations?
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:51 AM   #1275
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He ran the battery in the back. You can also look at the pictures of his car to tell.

Battery in the back transfers more weight entering a turn.
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