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Old 02-24-2007, 08:31 PM   #1156
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Johnny

What would you change for a low bite track?
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:55 PM   #1157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
Johnny

What would you change for a low bite track?
When I change between tracks in my area (one is med-high and the other is low-med), all I do first is change the center spring and see how it is. Heres my order on how to get more grip:

Softer center spring
More edge on tire
Higher Ride Height
Less glue on tires
35wt in Center Shock
Softer Side springs
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:51 AM   #1158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
.375 is 3/8", the correct OD for a front wheel bearing is 5/16" or .3125.




The OD for the rear axle bearing should be .375... looks like you got your OD's swapped there Carl...

By the way, I heard you were FLYING at South Shore recently... sorry I missed you.

David
My mistake on the OD sizes...seems as if old age is setting in...senior moment.

See you soon at SSH. The chassis keeps getting better...can't wait for a new front-end. Just to have something new. Started working on another rev 4.5, this one for outdoors...I'l run an LRP brushless until the KO brushless system becomes available.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:26 AM   #1159
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What's up with the website? http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:05 AM   #1160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATIF
Hey Carl...
The reamer allows the unflanged bearing to sit further in the rim, from the outside in.
On the inside, use washers and a flanged bearing.
Doing this widens the front track which tends to settle the car down a bit in high bite situations....I noticed that it smoothes the feel of the drive as well.

Hope that helps Carl.....
See you trackside soon.
-Latif
What's up Latif? How's life in the real world treatin' ya?
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:28 AM   #1161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Anthony
What's up with the website? http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com
There must be routing problems in the Boston area today. I have had problems with a few other Boston area hosted sites, too.
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Old 02-26-2007, 01:36 PM   #1162
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Back up.
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Old 02-26-2007, 06:34 PM   #1163
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Okay, here's a weird one, maybe someone else has run across this...

Sometimes I put my 4.5 on the tweak station (I use the MIP, it's always been accurate for me) and it shows the car way off. I have to run the left tweak screw almost fully down and the right one fully up to get it to sit right on the tweak station. Then on the track the car is horribly tweaked, big understeer in the left turns and hooking in the right turns, jsut as you'd expect with the tweak screws that way.

I'll put the tweak screws back to even or close, and even tho the tweak station says the car is off it drives fine on the track.

Other times, the tweak station and the track behavior are in complete agreement. any ideas what might be going on? This one's really got me scratching my head...
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Old 02-26-2007, 06:37 PM   #1164
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Are you running a brushless motor? How close are your tire diameters left to right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
Okay, here's a weird one, maybe someone else has run across this...

Sometimes I put my 4.5 on the tweak station (I use the MIP, it's always been accurate for me) and it shows the car way off. I have to run the left tweak screw almost fully down and the right one fully up to get it to sit right on the tweak station. Then on the track the car is horribly tweaked, big understeer in the left turns and hooking in the right turns, jsut as you'd expect with the tweak screws that way.

I'll put the tweak screws back to even or close, and even tho the tweak station says the car is off it drives fine on the track.

Other times, the tweak station and the track behavior are in complete agreement. any ideas what might be going on? This one's really got me scratching my head...
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:01 PM   #1165
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Also make sure the rear pod is very smooth and the front end has no binding in it.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:06 PM   #1166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
Okay, here's a weird one, maybe someone else has run across this...

Sometimes I put my 4.5 on the tweak station (I use the MIP, it's always been accurate for me) and it shows the car way off. I have to run the left tweak screw almost fully down and the right one fully up to get it to sit right on the tweak station. Then on the track the car is horribly tweaked, big understeer in the left turns and hooking in the right turns, jsut as you'd expect with the tweak screws that way.

I'll put the tweak screws back to even or close, and even tho the tweak station says the car is off it drives fine on the track.

Other times, the tweak station and the track behavior are in complete agreement. any ideas what might be going on? This one's really got me scratching my head...

Hey there...

You first should check your links. With the motor, battery and tweek brace removed, check for and binding or clicking in the links. Also check the gap between the rear pod "e"plate and the chassis on both sides of the car. they should be dead nutz straight.

If these are fine, then go to your front end. Check to make sure you dont have a bent front axle, or a clapped out front spring.

If this is fine, then check your motor wires. you should use as small diameter as possible. I use 16 gauge, with great results. Make sure that when you have you body on, that the motor wires arent pushing on the left side of the pod plate.

Last but not least, polish everything with a metal polish, including front king pins, and the 4 rear link balls.

Check on those, and let us know what you think.

Beavis
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:12 PM   #1167
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Default Brushless install

Hey all...

Bruce posted a nice step by step process for installing the Novak brushless into your Speedmerchants. Check on the website, under the news section.

Follow all the instructions to the letter, and you will have a tweek free car. Also notice how all the electronics are installed, in order to get the weights equal left and right. Those brushless speedo's are Heavvvyy.

I will be installing mine this week. for a practice run this weekend before the Roar nationals.

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Old 02-26-2007, 07:58 PM   #1168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Are you running a brushless motor? How close are your tire diameters left to right?
brushed motor (epic X stock) and the tire diameters were equal left to right, straight from the truer.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:00 PM   #1169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
Also make sure the rear pod is very smooth and the front end has no binding in it.
rear pod is smooth, no bind or click. front may have been an issue, I had the strut front end on the car this weekend, but it looked smooth when I put it on the car. It may have taken a tweak after a board hit tho...
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:05 PM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beavis353
Hey there...

You first should check your links. With the motor, battery and tweek brace removed, check for and binding or clicking in the links. Also check the gap between the rear pod "e"plate and the chassis on both sides of the car. they should be dead nutz straight.

If these are fine, then go to your front end. Check to make sure you dont have a bent front axle, or a clapped out front spring.

If this is fine, then check your motor wires. you should use as small diameter as possible. I use 16 gauge, with great results. Make sure that when you have you body on, that the motor wires arent pushing on the left side of the pod plate.

Last but not least, polish everything with a metal polish, including front king pins, and the 4 rear link balls.

Check on those, and let us know what you think.

Beavis
Links checked out okay, with damper tubes off there's no bind or click. gap between chassis and lower pod plate equal on both sides.

front axles straight, but I did have the strut front end on the car (having a hard time matching up a set of old skool front arms, my last good pair got sloppy and none of the arms I have seem to go together without major camber and axle height differences)

I was concerned about the motor wires, I am using TQ dragwire (very light flexsy slot car wire) but the routing was somewhat iffy... the wire was from like three cars ago and wasn't fitting perfect. I just got another batch of wire and I'm going to rewire the car before the weekend...

Thanks for the replies, I WILL get to the bottom of this (I probably have a "duh" moment awaiting me) Will post when I sort it out.
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