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Old 12-21-2006, 11:29 PM   #1036
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Default Dumas Edition Car

What Does everyone think if I were to bring out a Dumas Edition Prebuilt Car?

The car would come completely built aside from the electronics, batteries and motor! The servo holes could be drilled, but the type of servo would have to be specified...
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Old 12-21-2006, 11:39 PM   #1037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas
What Does everyone think if I were to bring out a Dumas Edition Prebuilt Car?

The car would come completely built aside from the electronics, batteries and motor! The servo holes could be drilled, but the type of servo would have to be specified...
I think with your great reputation there could be a demand for it, if you show that you spec'd it your way. Few people will pay a lot for good building, unless they think it will be faster. Now the part about drilling the servo holes, that's good because most people hate doing that (or can't).
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:33 AM   #1038
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I also posted this in the 1/12th forum but it was suggested to post here also.

My Rev 4.5 "running stock" has no front grip for the first two minutes. After that it is just as fast as everyone else, if not faster. I have Jaco Purple fronts and Grey rears. I have tried four different traction compounds with absolutely no change. I have tried all the compound per manufactures recommendations and my own theories. I have tried applying the race before, two before, 30 minutes before. Here are the compunds I have tried (Paragon Ground Effects, Trinity Death Grip, Trinity Zip Grip, Something TQ smells like oranges)

I don't know how this could be setup cause once I can turn I start catching the leaders. Dual Rate setting is about a 4 foot radius.

Here is my current setup.
Front End:
.020 front springs
Camber 1.5 degrees
Caster Shims from kit in front only
0 Toe in/out
ride height 4.5mm

Rear:
Red center spring
Stock side springs (Just touching)
10k diff oil in the tubes
45 weight AE oil
1 degree of sag
ride height 4.5mm


Other:
-Jaco purple fronts trued to 44mm
-Jaco grey rears trued to 46mm
-Parma speed 8 body
-Batteries back

I am open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:23 AM   #1039
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purple fronts are pretty much a no-go except in high bite. Magenta's will do the trick.

I would reccomend:

front

magenta fronts,
.020 front springs
kit caster shim
1/2 header card for camber
3mm - 4mm ride height
.030" lowered knuckles with 1.67" tires
change dope % for steering

rear

grey tires
make sure to widen the car out to full legal width with parmas, the off set is different and check the width for symmetry.
40wt oil in center shock
gold center spring (red if the car pushes too much on power for you)
a couple of degrees of pod droop (more if it pushes off power)
10k in the tubes
3-4mm ride height
1mm of sag in the chassis

like I said, unless the bite is very high, purples won't realy work.
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:06 AM   #1040
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I agree with the above post. It seems like my Rev4 works better with Dbl Pink fronts than Purple.

I mainly run JACO stuff. If the car feels edgy, I'll super glue the front tire's sidewall, and it really smoothes the car out without loosing steering.

I actually think the car is easier to drive with the softer fronts because you don't have to run as much steering throw to get around the track.
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:13 AM   #1041
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A little of subject, but pretty neat.....

http://www.thelastboss.com/post.phtml?pk=1843
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:43 AM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas
Tem-What is your car settings currently? If you post them on here then mabye I could help you with what to possibly change on your cars setup! Thing is, I don't want to tell you what to change until I know how the car is setup.
It's a Rev4 with aluminum IRS castor blocks with machined delrin upper arms (I can post a pic tonight if my description is a bit crappy). 022 front springs, red center spring, red side springs, AE stealth diff lube in damper tubes, 30wt shock oil. No front droop, almost no rear pod droop. Pretty stiff suspension setup. Approx -1 degree camber (wheels wear flat), 0 toe. I don't know the castor setting on the blocks but it's not much. 3mm ride height. TRC purple fronts (my last 2 sets before going all jaco), jaco rear greys. 46mm rear dia(or close), fronts a few mm smaller. Jack the gripper, full on rear, 1/2 inner side on fronts. Futaba 9602 servo on angled blocks. Rearward mounted battery. 19T motor(C2 on 52mm rollout, Dynastys to be tried out). Medium-high traction carpet track. Looks like this:
www.enbid.com/david/mrcc/mrcctc.avi
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:31 AM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas
What Does everyone think if I were to bring out a Dumas Edition Prebuilt Car?

The car would come completely built aside from the electronics, batteries and motor! The servo holes could be drilled, but the type of servo would have to be specified...

Does this include sanding the Chassis...I WANT ONE
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Old 12-22-2006, 03:52 PM   #1044
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Okay, your setup is really bizzare (no offense). The car is wayyy too stiff all the way around. It must push like a dump truck (no wonder you need lots of D/R!). I generally stick with the old skool most of the time, if the track is bumpy I'll try a strut. If I run the strut, .020s and 10deg reactive. .022s are too stiff period for just about anything!

Also, keep in mind that a 12th scales rear and front suspension are much less distinct than on a touring car. As the car has a tremendous amount of unsprung weight at the back (ie the motor). The main chassis pivots as much from the pod as the pod pivots from the main chassis. Keeping this in mind, when you run a really stiff side spring (ie red, wayyyy too stiff!) the whole car's weight transfer is limited, not just the rear and the car won't dump any weight over at the front as well as the rear. It will just sort of do a skaty push everywhere.

try the setup I suggested above. I personally like .21 (blue) side springs. Alot of the jaco guys run .23s (whites). I don't like the .23s with parma tires, but who knows with jacos, alot of guys have had great success with the .23, double pink wrap all the way around combo.

Also, put something more viscous in the tubes, like 10k silicone. The grease has alot of stiction and will produce some funky damping characteristics. Also, go up a little on center shock oil, like 40-50 range.

Finally, keep in mind that the details of 12th scale prep are really important. Take note of your pod droop as its an often over looked detail. You should always have some as without it your car can't dump weight forward off power to make it turn. To much will stand the car on its nose when you lift and make it super evil. 1-2 deg is usually good. Also, chassis sag is important. Try to keep the car at around 3.5 mm - 4mm of ride height max under the front wheels, and let the chassis have .5-1mm of sag at its lowest point (under the pivot ball). More sag mellows the car out, less makes it more reactive.

Also, unless you have about 100 entries running at your club, you won't have enough bite to justify purple fronts in club racing. Magenta fronts/grey rears for parma, double pink wraps all the way around for jaco.

Finally, if your running stock always make sure the back of your car is at maximum legal ROAR width and symetrical. The front can be a little under if the bites low to help it transfer weight and steer but running the car narrow at the back just makes it pushy/lifty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TEM
It's a Rev4 with aluminum IRS castor blocks with machined delrin upper arms (I can post a pic tonight if my description is a bit crappy). 022 front springs, red center spring, red side springs, AE stealth diff lube in damper tubes, 30wt shock oil. No front droop, almost no rear pod droop. Pretty stiff suspension setup. Approx -1 degree camber (wheels wear flat), 0 toe. I don't know the castor setting on the blocks but it's not much. 3mm ride height. TRC purple fronts (my last 2 sets before going all jaco), jaco rear greys. 46mm rear dia(or close), fronts a few mm smaller. Jack the gripper, full on rear, 1/2 inner side on fronts. Futaba 9602 servo on angled blocks. Rearward mounted battery. 19T motor(C2 on 52mm rollout, Dynastys to be tried out). Medium-high traction carpet track. Looks like this:
www.enbid.com/david/mrcc/mrcctc.avi
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:22 PM   #1045
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hey mike i think it should be the bruce carbone edition since i never see a 1/12 car in your pits its always in bruces haahahaaa congrats on the new deal and good luck at the novak race .. pickles i always run purples at club races
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Old 12-22-2006, 09:45 PM   #1046
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I bought a rev4 and i'm new 1/12 and i was wondering, pod droop, should the pod angle be up or down from the chassis? any help would be great.thanks.
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:47 PM   #1047
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eforer, the setup was similar to the other cars I ran (6pack, knife, etc) but just HARDER. How would the car differ with the magenta fronts? I'm on my last 2 sets of TRC purple fronts and I got some new Jaco purple fronts and 2 stage fronts I have yet to try out. It's already got more front bite than I need. As of right now, I'm making club race B-main lap times. Maybe next week I'll try completely changing everything softer to see how the car feels.
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Old 12-23-2006, 12:34 AM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyka
hey mike i think it should be the bruce carbone edition since i never see a 1/12 car in your pits its always in bruces haahahaaa congrats on the new deal and good luck at the novak race .. pickles i always run purples at club races
You also run jacos! (and a crc)
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Old 12-23-2006, 12:36 AM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi guy
I bought a rev4 and i'm new 1/12 and i was wondering, pod droop, should the pod angle be up or down from the chassis? any help would be great.thanks.
the pod should hang lower than the chassis when you hold it in the air. Thats droop. Sag is when the chassis plate under the pivot ball is the lowest point.
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Old 12-23-2006, 06:17 AM   #1050
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Ed,

As you know Mark is one of the guys that goes fast with a car that pushes off the track..lol....I still dont understand how that is possible....his car does like an 8ft circle..lol.

Jamie
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