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Old 10-23-2006, 02:48 PM   #931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
tall order i know sorry like i said new to link cas...thanx I have everything but side springs and tube lube where is the best place to order the lube
You can get CRC lube from www.teamcrc.com. The 7000,10000, 30000, etc. you can get from Tower from any of the 1/8th scale offroad manufacturers (OFNA has a nice selection). http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&C=CMH&V=OFN

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Old 10-23-2006, 03:01 PM   #932
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ofna 10k silicone lube for 1/8th diffs is what you want. You should be able to buy it at your lhs.
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:23 PM   #933
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Default wire

looking for some 16 awg wire for my 1/12 where can i find some?
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:25 PM   #934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
looking for some 16 awg wire for my 1/12 where can i find some?
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_wire.html

-James
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:06 PM   #935
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www.tqracing.com has some very nice
wire for 12th scale. Alot of people in this
area use it .

He sold it for slot cars and now for rc cars.

Also the owner Ralph M is a hell of a nice guy!

Check it out.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:10 PM   #936
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This area being New York . Ask around im
sure you can find someone who has used it.
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Old 10-23-2006, 10:49 PM   #937
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I use it too, it's the best wire currently available.
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:09 AM   #938
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Lightbulb wire

the drag wire
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:23 AM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eforer
Okay thats alot of questions:

Damper Tube Goo: 10k is fine for most things, 7k is also suitable. The heavy CRC damper fluid is good too.

Side Springs: That sort of depends on what tires you run. Typically the jaco guys run the .23 (white side springs) and us parma guys run .21 (blue side springs). Don't preload the side springs. The springs are progressive and pre-loading them changes their rate. Tighten them down till they just touch the link end. Tweaking the chassis is best accomplished with a pair of pennies on the front tires just aft of the axel. Lift the front end from the center slowly. Tighten the droop screw of the side that falls second, loosen the screw of the side that falls first.

Center Spring: You should have blue, red and gold. Copper and Black tend to be too stiff and silver is too soft. The jaco guys run mostly blue or red, for parmas usually red or gold (a little stiffer).

Center Shock Oil: The weight is less important than having the shock built well. 40wt is a good starting point.

Any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
wheres the droop screws ?
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Old 10-24-2006, 10:20 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
wheres the droop screws ?
the screws that hold the side springs
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:40 AM   #941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
the screws that hold the side springs
thats i thought
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Old 10-25-2006, 06:19 AM   #942
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Hi guys,

I have a Speedmerchant Rev4.5 and a brand new 4.5 conversion in the for sale thread.

Take a look if you looking for one fast.

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:47 PM   #943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
wheres the droop screws ?

Are you inquiring about pod droop?

Pod droop is how far the rear pod hangs below the main chassis when the chassis is off the ground (ie you holding it up and looknig at it). It is adjusted by loosening or tightening the the center shock ball ends. When the center shock is longer, the pod hangs lower, more pod droop. Conversely, when the center shock is shorter, the pod doesn't hang as low, less pod droop.

Pod droop effects, pirmarily, the cars characteristics off power. The more pod droop, the more the car will transfer weight forward when you lift. Although it creates more on power steering it also tends to make the car a little mellower (more steering but less abrupt) as increased pod droop smoothly transfers the weight forward vs being abruptly interrupted by the center shock reaching its length limit.

Hope that helps.

Just to clarify on the links and end links. The link length is not a tuning option. The links are either right or wrong. Links can only be checked with the motor out of the car (and battery) and preferably with the side springs removed. If the links are correct, when you twist the pod on the pivot ball there should be even resistance throughout the pod's range of lateral motion. No high spots, no binding points etc. If there are, adjust links to compensate and try again.

The link ends are meant to pivot freely, but be firmly attached as to not detach in the event of an impact. The kit includes a small o-ring which is to be placed in the split in the link end with the screw passing through it. This prevents the link ends from becoming excessvely closed and binding on the pivot balls. They, like the links, are right or wrong and not a tuning aid.
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:50 PM   #944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
the screws that hold the side springs
also, those are not the droop scews, those are the tweak screws. There are no droop screws on a SpeedMerchant. See above.
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Old 10-25-2006, 02:05 PM   #945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eforer
Okay thats alot of questions:
Tighten the droop screw of the side that falls second, loosen the screw of the side that falls first.
Ed,

They were asking you to clarify what you meant by "droop screw" in the quote above.

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