Speedmerchant Rev.4
#47
Tech Initiate
Rev 4
What are you guys using for front bumpers?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
#48
I actually do not run a front bumper, nor would i really suggest one...
If you are having problesm with the body getting damaged then you can make a foam bumper, however, I would not suggest making it any wider than the width of the chassis since in impact it can catch a wheel and cause mid race problems.
Also, you should not have problems splitting the chassis, even without superglue (i think most people on the team just shave the battery slots a little and run it, no other prep work required).
If you are having problesm with the body getting damaged then you can make a foam bumper, however, I would not suggest making it any wider than the width of the chassis since in impact it can catch a wheel and cause mid race problems.
Also, you should not have problems splitting the chassis, even without superglue (i think most people on the team just shave the battery slots a little and run it, no other prep work required).
#49
how light is your car?
here's my new Rev4. I was wondering if any of you guys have wieghed your cars in race trim? Just curious, because I keep seeing pictures of the pros cars with lead on them.
#50
oops
here's my rev4
Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 07:45 PM.
#51
I want to buy your car, send me a pm with a price, I will pay whatever you say.
#52
Tech Fanatic
Re: oops
Originally posted by odpurple
here's my rev4
here's my rev4
Get back to work so we can go racing next Wednesday!
s-
#53
Re: Re: oops
Originally posted by Crashby
Yeah! Yeah!! I've seen your car. Have you completed my car yet?!?
Get back to work so we can go racing next Wednesday!
s-
Yeah! Yeah!! I've seen your car. Have you completed my car yet?!?
Get back to work so we can go racing next Wednesday!
s-
O'D
#54
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Re: oops
Originally posted by odpurple
Yes it's almost done. Right now I am drilling the secret holes in the chassis which I will fill with lead
O'D
Yes it's almost done. Right now I am drilling the secret holes in the chassis which I will fill with lead
O'D
Now quit fooling around and get back to work Tiny Tim...er... I mean OD! Bah Humbug!!
#55
Very clean car! As far as weight, I know in stock my car has always been very close to weight (i run alum arm supports and IRS rear bulkheads) so in mod i normally run the stock rear bulkheads to get dead on with weight (since mod motors weigh a bit more), and I normally dont run an rx pack which normally weighs around an ounce.
If you want to add weight one of the better places to do it is to drill a hole through the lead weight and then use the two holes for the battery brace in the back (since i almost solely run the batts in the back position, since the car steers so much already) and then just basically bolt down the lead weights (you need to trim them so they dont hit the rear pod), but justin johnson (aka bevis) i saw had run his weight like that for cleveland.
If you want to add weight one of the better places to do it is to drill a hole through the lead weight and then use the two holes for the battery brace in the back (since i almost solely run the batts in the back position, since the car steers so much already) and then just basically bolt down the lead weights (you need to trim them so they dont hit the rear pod), but justin johnson (aka bevis) i saw had run his weight like that for cleveland.
#56
Originally posted by stormperson
Very clean car! As far as weight, I know in stock my car has always been very close to weight (i run alum arm supports and IRS rear bulkheads) so in mod i normally run the stock rear bulkheads to get dead on with weight (since mod motors weigh a bit more), and I normally dont run an rx pack which normally weighs around an ounce.
If you want to add weight one of the better places to do it is to drill a hole through the lead weight and then use the two holes for the battery brace in the back (since i almost solely run the batts in the back position, since the car steers so much already) and then just basically bolt down the lead weights (you need to trim them so they dont hit the rear pod), but justin johnson (aka bevis) i saw had run his weight like that for cleveland.
Very clean car! As far as weight, I know in stock my car has always been very close to weight (i run alum arm supports and IRS rear bulkheads) so in mod i normally run the stock rear bulkheads to get dead on with weight (since mod motors weigh a bit more), and I normally dont run an rx pack which normally weighs around an ounce.
If you want to add weight one of the better places to do it is to drill a hole through the lead weight and then use the two holes for the battery brace in the back (since i almost solely run the batts in the back position, since the car steers so much already) and then just basically bolt down the lead weights (you need to trim them so they dont hit the rear pod), but justin johnson (aka bevis) i saw had run his weight like that for cleveland.
I'm not on a quest to lighten this car, per say, but to understand what weight other racers are trying to achieve. It seems to me that some of the weight I see on cars is "psycological".
O'D
#57
Some things to help get you down to min weight, the rx pack, really isnt needed, espically for stock, and if you are already overweight, its probably one of the items to go first. Also if you are running alloy rear bulkheads then I would suggest reverting back tot he stock pieces, or try to run a graphite left side bulkhead and regular motor mount or blue or magnesium one, whichever you prefer, i know you cant run your tires down as small, but you are saving a good bit of weight.
Also what kind of body are you running? If you are running a trinity speed 9 or any protoform lightweight body, its really medium weight compared to the parma speed 8, also certain brands of paint of heaver than others, to really go into specifics.
Also, if you want to save some weight, dont run the battery brace and just make sure the tape u use holds the battery in place.
Just some idea's, I think in cleveland both my stock and mod car were within .2 of an ounce sometimes of being at min weight, i try to get the car at around that just incase something falls off or something like that, and also scales can change, etc..
Also what kind of body are you running? If you are running a trinity speed 9 or any protoform lightweight body, its really medium weight compared to the parma speed 8, also certain brands of paint of heaver than others, to really go into specifics.
Also, if you want to save some weight, dont run the battery brace and just make sure the tape u use holds the battery in place.
Just some idea's, I think in cleveland both my stock and mod car were within .2 of an ounce sometimes of being at min weight, i try to get the car at around that just incase something falls off or something like that, and also scales can change, etc..
#58
hey Storm-
Like i said, I'm not really trying to get this particular car any lighter, just trying to understand why the pros cars seem to need lead when the cars don't look that light. There's just no place to lose big chunks of weight, so when you are dropping it by a gram here and a gram there that 792.5g weight seems a long way off. off course if I left the servopack off my car, as an example, it would be right down to weight (5 cell 160mah: 19g, not near an ounce, but a lot). But I see cars with packs installed and lead to boot, so...
Actually, the stock AE bulkheads are heavier than the Irs ones or the Niftech ones which I am using. But most of the weight is in the motor side, and I've never had a magnesium one to weigh so I bet there may be 4 or 5 grams available there.
That's interesting about the body weights, I've only checked a few. I tend to use too much paint so I probably have 4 grams or so too much there. I usually run a Speed 12 but I have an 8 here painted the same, I'm going to trim it and weigh it to compare.
I already eliminated the battery brace and made my own which weighs .7g compared to the stock one (3.5g).
Thanks for the input!
O'D
Like i said, I'm not really trying to get this particular car any lighter, just trying to understand why the pros cars seem to need lead when the cars don't look that light. There's just no place to lose big chunks of weight, so when you are dropping it by a gram here and a gram there that 792.5g weight seems a long way off. off course if I left the servopack off my car, as an example, it would be right down to weight (5 cell 160mah: 19g, not near an ounce, but a lot). But I see cars with packs installed and lead to boot, so...
Actually, the stock AE bulkheads are heavier than the Irs ones or the Niftech ones which I am using. But most of the weight is in the motor side, and I've never had a magnesium one to weigh so I bet there may be 4 or 5 grams available there.
That's interesting about the body weights, I've only checked a few. I tend to use too much paint so I probably have 4 grams or so too much there. I usually run a Speed 12 but I have an 8 here painted the same, I'm going to trim it and weigh it to compare.
I already eliminated the battery brace and made my own which weighs .7g compared to the stock one (3.5g).
Thanks for the input!
O'D
Last edited by odpurple; 12-24-2004 at 08:47 PM.
#59
I've looked on speedmechant's web site 4 the pricing and ordering info for the rev. 4, it's not there! So how much is it and where can i buy it?
#60
Originally posted by HKlosi
I've looked on speedmechant's web site 4 the pricing and ordering info for the rev. 4, it's not there! So how much is it and where can i buy it?
I've looked on speedmechant's web site 4 the pricing and ordering info for the rev. 4, it's not there! So how much is it and where can i buy it?