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Old 01-20-2006, 11:33 AM   #436
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Kinda slow in here.....
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Old 01-20-2006, 11:47 AM   #437
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Well my Rev4 is starting to rip - second in A main that week.

I have the rear pretty free and weight transfer is very fast - very quick turn in - great for passing in the turn. I hate to say it but it might be time to retire my highly modified 12L4
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:16 PM   #438
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Originally Posted by DLM2005
Well my Rev4 is starting to rip - second in A main that week.

I have the rear pretty free and weight transfer is very fast - very quick turn in - great for passing in the turn. I hate to say it but it might be time to retire my highly modified 12L4
You could always order the conversion kit, and build up a spare Rev.4......
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:17 PM   #439
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Kinda slow in here.....

Ok, then please give me directions on how to mill the steering blocks. I have a bunch of front tires that are still good, but I can't get 4 mm ride height. I know it was said before that Bruce was going to put step by step instructions on the site, but I haven't seen them yet. Thanks.
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:41 PM   #440
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Ok, then please give me directions on how to mill the steering blocks. I have a bunch of front tires that are still good, but I can't get 4 mm ride height. I know it was said before that Bruce was going to put step by step instructions on the site, but I haven't seen them yet. Thanks.
Take .030" off the bottom of each steering block, I use a dremel tool and work my way slowly, stopping to measure frequently. Then re-install the steering blocks as normal with the exception of shimming the slack out between the block and the top e-clip on the kingpin. I use a .025 nylon washer and a .005 SG1 motor shim to do this. You will also need to remove a bit of material from the suspension arm to retain full steering throw. After installing the milled down block, you'll see exactly what you'll need to grind away on the arm by turning the front wheels.
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Old 01-20-2006, 01:56 PM   #441
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Do you put the clip on the top and bottom of the kingpin after the mod. I used to only use the bottom clip.
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Old 01-20-2006, 02:02 PM   #442
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Originally Posted by Scrad
Do you put the clip on the top and bottom of the kingpin after the mod. I used to only use the bottom clip.
Yeah, I always use both clips, if you don't you run the risk of the steering block hanging up on the kingpin. It's not that common a problem, but I have seen it happen, and will definitely ruin a run if it does.
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:19 PM   #443
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K, I did notice that it did stick a little without the bottom clip. I got every thing milled and now I have 4.5 mm ride height. I'm good to go. Thanks Cypress.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:22 AM   #444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Kinda slow in here.....
That it is...

Anyone messing with anything new and interesting on the Rev.4?

Locally (Northeast) we have been treated to a VERY wide open track so we are getting a crash course in high speed setups. I have never run 12th scale stock to the point where you barely lift for 8 minutes. It's somewhat fun but not my cup of tea.

Some great racing between Mc$ and Bruce tonight and man does that Speed12b look amazing on the track.
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Old 01-25-2006, 06:59 AM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Take .030" off the bottom of each steering block, I use a dremel tool and work my way slowly, stopping to measure frequently. Then re-install the steering blocks as normal with the exception of shimming the slack out between the block and the top e-clip on the kingpin. I use a .025 nylon washer and a .005 SG1 motor shim to do this. You will also need to remove a bit of material from the suspension arm to retain full steering throw. After installing the milled down block, you'll see exactly what you'll need to grind away on the arm by turning the front wheels.
would'nt it be better to use milled lower arms, like those from IRS, or mill them down yourself? Don't forget about ackerman in the steering, the need to change it at the servo or on the steering arms, start paying attn. to that and you'd be surprised at the results.
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Old 01-25-2006, 11:18 AM   #446
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To mill down the whole arm (since i use as do most other team drivers, and i feel that the old style front end works better than the strut, espically for high bite) would be alot harder to do precisely, and it is just much easier to mill down the steering knuckle.

Nick- what is your car doing that you dont like right now? At the nats, I know i went with a set up that didnt scrub, so as little dual rate as possible (although bruce might disargree with me, lol) speed 8 body, although the new 12B with the guerney flaps did seem to work pretty well. Although i ran a very similar set up at the nats, IIC, cleveland, although at the jam due to the really tight track and lower bite, i ran magenta fronts instead of purples, and .018 front springs for the first time in years.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:27 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
K, I did notice that it did stick a little without the bottom clip. I got every thing milled and now I have 4.5 mm ride height. I'm good to go. Thanks Cypress.
Scrad it's no problem.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:31 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormperson
Nick- what is your car doing that you dont like right now? At the nats, I know i went with a set up that didnt scrub, so as little dual rate as possible (although bruce might disargree with me, lol) speed 8 body, although the new 12B with the guerney flaps did seem to work pretty well. Although i ran a very similar set up at the nats, IIC, cleveland, although at the jam due to the really tight track and lower bite, i ran magenta fronts instead of purples, and .018 front springs for the first time in years.
In all honesty my car isn't too shabby right now. Bruce has been steering me in the right direction as far as taking scrub out of the car and the biggest changes for me have been tires. Most people are running Magenta/D. Pink up front to get the car to steer well and just running wide open with only 3-4 spots on the track that require you to lift for just a split second. This layout is all about making the car not scrub and while it's very interesting to be able to really see the car work it's somewhat boring to drive, it almost reminds me of oval racing.

I have to say that Bruce's car is just amazing. You can hear every other car start to scrub some speed and bog down a little in the corners and his car doesn't skip a beat.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:32 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busman
would'nt it be better to use milled lower arms, like those from IRS, or mill them down yourself? Don't forget about ackerman in the steering, the need to change it at the servo or on the steering arms, start paying attn. to that and you'd be surprised at the results.
I've been told that milling the entire arm changes the roll center more than milling the block, and like Mark stated, it's way easier to accurately mill the steering block. The IRS arms are for the strut front-end. An industrious individual could make a little money selling "Old-Skool" arms that were milled down, especially if they provided dead even caster and camber on each side.
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:45 PM   #450
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I have found that when it comes to the Rev.4 you should do what Bruce says and he says lower the steering block!

All joking aside Bruce is the master of setting a car up. His understanding of suspension geometry and creating efficient suspension is second to none. In Cleveland he gave me some lowered blocks and talked for a few minutes about roll center and though it pretty much went in one ear and out the other it was all dead on. I went from having a car that scrubbed like crazy and was hard to drive to having a car that was smooth and quick through every corner and a dream to get around the track with at the same time. If only he could make me not totally suck I could see a D-Main one of these days =)
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