stormperson

iTrader: (1)

It should be on the website. Although you are much better off calling him and leave a message! He doesnt almost pick up the phone, but just leave a message detailing your questions and call back number and he'll get back to you.

Fiddle Fadel

Stormpersom

Any new setups after Cleveland?

Has Bruce said anything about having the Rev 4 manual available online?

Thanks
Dave

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

It would be good to get a set-up sheet section (in pdf) of his set-up sheet (from the back of the manual) and a pdf version that people could fill out and print (in pdf form). Just a thought.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

Almost all of the stock team is running Parma tires now, so the set ups are slightly different...

Front: around 4 degrees of castor (2 degree shims+ the new basically .8mm shim up front to add a little more castor to keep the car from traction rolling). and Tan or Purple tires up front with .022 springs and a camber shim.

Rear: Red or Copper spring with around 80 weight oil (around 40 for mod) with 10k weight diff oil in the tubes and blue side springs with pink tires.

So nothing really dramatically different just a little harder front tire since the Jaco doulbe pink is more like a parma tan or purple almost.

As far as the instruction manual being available online... I dunno. I actually did the manual for bruce and I have all of the pages on my computer however the files are quite big, LMK if you want anything in specific i can email it to you, as well as the set up sheets.

Fiddle Fadel

Mark

Thanks for your reply.

So....you're running 2 castor shims AND a .8 spacer on the front of the arms. So you're trying to get 4+ degrees of castor?

On the camber shim....are you adding or subtracting camber?

Ride height still about the same?

Are the Parma tires similar to TRC?

Do you use the Aluminum arm stiffeners on the arms?

Still Parma Speed 8?

Is this you're all around setup or just for Cleveland?

Thanks
Dave

Sal Amato

iTrader: (27)

Does any bbody know of a hobby shop that stocks parts for the rev 4?(besides speedmerchant and hobbyetc.)

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

Correct, i am basically running 4 degrees of castor.

I am adding camber wit the shim

ride height still the same, slight droop in the center of the chassis

Parma are very similar to trc, its the same rubber but the wheel is a little different, so it might flex differntly, also i am not 100% sure about the offset.

I do run the stiffners on the arm, i found they help prevent breakage and i am normally finding i have to add weight anyway so why not, lol.

I am still running a parma speed 8, the speed 12 has too much steering and scrub for stock, IMO at least.

And this is more for cleveland, for club racing I will run 2 degrees of castor and possibly a double pink front tire and no superglue on the sidewalls. Basically i just put some steering back into the car since the bite isnt as high.

And i am sorry but i do not know of any hobby shops that ship small orders that carry speedmerchant.

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

sns820 - I see we have the same taste in women!!!!!!!! very nice very nice!!!!

Fiddle Fadel

Mark

What I'm trying to improve is the turn in and rotation around a turn. My car seems to need a lot of input to go around turns.
Is this a castor function? Would the NEW assoc. front end help this?

When I drive my Rugrat on the same track (with the NEW front end ) it rotates very quickly, sometimes almost before I know what is happening. I like this quick rotation.
My Rev 4 is more deleberate.

What height ball stud are you using in the steering arms? I am useing the shortest that I could find

My setup from weekend:

Front
020 spring
2 degrees castor
TRC Purple (30% fluid on tire)
Servo mounted per Rev 3 Instructions

Rear
TRC Pink (full sauce)
white side springs
80 wt shock oil (wolf black spring)
2 degrees of droop
slight center droop
Losi medium damper lube

The track has good traction.
I ran in stock. The car was very smooth. Just not very aggressive.
I had to start turning farther in front of the turn than I like.
Is this inherent in this design or just my setup?

Thanks again
Dave

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

That could be your set up. I would suggest going to a softer center spring, an AE copper, and then to give steering back...

I would suggest trying tan or cyan front tires and possibly more front sauce.

Your set up just sounds really stiff in the back, I would also suggest blue side springs to allow the car to roll more.

Also if you need mroe cut in try the speed 12 body from protoform, i found it scrubs too much, but you might like it.

As far as the strut front end, I have tried it and gone back a few times, it can be good, but its really inconsistant and one hit really screws it up, plus there is alot of handfitting, even with the new castor blocks.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

Is the track extremely bumpy? If not try .018 front springs. I ususally try to run the softest front spring I can without letting the car "fall on" the outside front in fast corners. I have never had good luck on purple fronts with anything other than .018 springs.

Mark makes a good point about front tires, I have found the Cyan or Tan to be the way to go on all but the grippiest tracks. On med. bite club tracks Purples seem to get hot and glaze over, where a Tan will provide a bit more bite with less heat related degradation.

Also, which traction compound do you use. I have found that compound palys a major role in tire selection based on how the compound affects the tire. This could also play a major role in the problem your experiencing.

Fiddle Fadel

Ian

The track is smooth. it is 4 yr old calandra ozite.
We Have to use Jack The Gripper sauce.

I have not raced since last March, when I got my Rev 4 Conversion.

When I went down to the track last week, I sauced my tires FULL the night before and wiped them down about 30 minutes later.
When I got to the track the next day I sauched the rear (full) and the front (1/3). I went down the straight and rolled the car at the end. The car HOOKED on every turn. I replaced the front tires with the same tires (Jaco Purples on Yokomo rims) without any sauce (hadn't run them in a year also) . The car mildly pushed for about 4 laps and then steered pretty well.
This makes me feel that the track has a lot of traction and a lot of compound on it. I was running 3.5MM ride height and the bottom of the chassis was Slimy.

Sorry to be so long winded. Any thoughts

Thanks
Dave

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

Gripper is a very strange compound. I absolutely will not run purples at a Gripper only track. JTG tends to make the purple compound very, very agressive to the limit, and then breaks away. If I have to run gripper I'll try tans first, If I need a bit more I'll move to Cyans. You may also wanna try white rears. I've found that pinks can actually outgrip any compound other than a double pink or pink. The abundance of rear grip may actually be a contributing problem, especially with Gripper.

I'd try going to blue side springs, and .018 front springs, to let the car transfer weight. The car should actually cut in a bit better that way, and center up a little quicker.

Hope this helps Dave.

DPowell

iTrader: (3)

Dave,
The track has alot of compound but not alot of traction. The traction does come up a little as the day goes on. Jaco purples on the front tend to glaze in a hurry then push like crazy. Try a magenta front with a minimum of Jack. That should help. E-mail me and we can discuss further.

Doug Powell

Fiddle Fadel

Mark and Ian...thanks so much for your input. I will try out your suggestions and let you know how it goes.

Doug...good to hear from you. Are you, Jim and Russ running 12th scale this winter?
Jim and Eric still kicking A** with their Quads?

I do miss the BS and visiting at the races.

I will be coming out after Christmas. I will E-mail you .

Dave