R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-20-2011, 05:12 AM   #1
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 362
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default tips and tricks to mounting a tc body

I used to race touring car many years ago and I'm going to get back into it this summer with a tc6, but from what I remember mounting the body was always a difficult task to get it perfect what are some tricks you guys use to mount and line up the body's and to cut perfect cicrles for the wheels?

Thanks in advanced, Ryan
__________________
Support your local track!!
rpc07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:22 AM   #2
Tech Elite
 
VooDooPH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Philippines
Posts: 3,715
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to VooDooPH
Default

i usually set the car up then mount the body before painting it... align the wheels on the wheel wells and mark the posts with a sharpee.
__________________
[TRF418][TB-04Pro][FF-03Pro][M-05v2][TRF102][F-104 WGP][TT-01R TypeE]
[Cross CF-01'08][Yokomo R12][Team C TC02Evo][Team C T8E v3]
VooDooPH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:41 AM   #3
BOG
Tech Master
 
BOG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: masshole
Posts: 1,602
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

I am no pro but i just did a body and had a buddy paint it, tho i did not cut the body post holes and did make them!! Should have cut the holes first!!

this is the procedure that i am going to use next time

cut holes for body post
trim excess lexan minus wheel wells
place body on car and mark out wheel wells with sharpie
paint
take off protective coating
cut out wheels and dremmel as necessary!!!
__________________
We are not here for a long time, however we are here for a good time!!!
Comfort the disturbed, disturb the comfortable!!!

Huge Thanx to Chris at "Off-the-HwaL" ~ Custom Painted R/C ~ www.OTHGFX.com
BOG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:42 AM   #4
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpc07 View Post
cut perfect cicrles for the wheels?

Thanks in advanced, Ryan
Get yourself a compass cutter. Very cheap as long as your don't buy it from an r/c related shop!
markrobinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:54 AM   #5
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,940
Default

Yep, compass cutter is the go. Olfa make one you can pick up from art and craft stores or internet and it is a professional tool. Not expensive at all.

Lining up the bodypost holes is very tricky. I still haven't figured out a bulletproof way of doing it, although I am considering buying some perspex and making a box that will fit above the bodyshell and bolt on the wheelaxles. It will need to be adjustable though. That will be used to line up the bodypost holes with the wheel centers first on the chassis, then put it over the bodyshell and drill at the marks. It is very involved though, but for me it would work as I do a few shells every year.

For the time being, I cut the wheelarches first (undercut) then I try to measure everything up, checking a few times, then push the body against a flat surface and find the right position for the holes with a square edge, make sure the body will be centered correctly, then drill rear holes first and front last. I don't cut the bodypsots as I use a variety of bodies on the same chassis. Last thing, I adjust the wheelarches to size with a sanding drum in a hand drill. Finish with an entire sheet of fine sandpaper rolled up in hand and softly seesawed across the wheelarch cut.They come out a treat, smooth and perfectly round.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.

Last edited by niznai; 02-20-2011 at 06:47 AM.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 06:32 AM   #6
Tech Fanatic
 
cartix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: NY
Posts: 937
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I use another set of bodyposts that are cut down to the actual mounting holes. So when I place the unpainted body on these it sits as it would when mounted. Works like a charm.
__________________
Cars and boats, lots!
cartix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 09:00 AM   #7
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Pretty much the same procedure as above replies, but I add spacers in the wheel hex to make it a snug/just fit when the body is over the car. Use that to get the body centered, move it forward/back for the wheel wells and mark the holes for post and axles.
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 09:15 AM   #8
Tech Elite
 
Foxxrocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 2,018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
i usually set the car up then mount the body before painting it... align the wheels on the wheel wells and mark the posts with a sharpee.
I do it this way, plus I make sure the whole body is cut out.
__________________
Tamiya 416X/ Tamiya TA-05 IFS/ Losi XXX-SCT/ HPI Baja 5SC/ Tamiya M05/ Tamiya F103/ Tamiya F104/ Team Associated 10R5O/ Kyosho IGT2/
Foxxrocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 09:42 AM   #9
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY/FL
Posts: 3,376
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Pretty much the same procedure as above replies, but I add spacers in the wheel hex to make it a snug/just fit when the body is over the car. Use that to get the body centered, move it forward/back for the wheel wells and mark the holes for post and axles.
Thats a darned good idea. Using the tires to "grip" against the uncut wheel opening would be a great guide. I suppose it might be useful though to have some wheels with offset rather than rely solely on spacers. Some chassis may not have spacers available for them or may not have enough axle length to use spacer washers AND mount the wheel to acheive the right width.
I've also found that using mounts with close to the right height REALLY help. To often if they're to high in back and shorter in front (typical) then you make holes only to find out when the body is sitting at the correct rake or is level, the holes aren't right.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 10:30 AM   #10
Tech Addict
 
macavant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: RC dojo
Posts: 705
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

I use lexan scissors to get as close as I can to the fender line, then trim down the rest with a Dremel and a sanding drum. After the major trimming, I follow it up with 300/400 grit sandpaper.
__________________
likes the oldskool RC action...
F201☆F104WGP☆M01.M05.YR4MSe.TA05.XV-01Pro.ABC_Genetic(Exotek)☆microRS4-Motek☆TA02SW☆WR02.CC-01.G6-01.SandScorcher☆TRF201☆TRF417X.TRF101.TRF101W
macavant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 03:46 PM   #11
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

This is what I do to save alot of time. I only run a Mazda speed 6 or an LTC. So after I have one of each that has been mounted perfectly, I will take it and cut off all the sides, rear and front of the body leaving only the hood, roof and trunk. It is basically a thin cap that I can lay down on top of the new body. The only reason you can't just slip an old body over a new on is because it will not fit flush on top of the new. By removing the sides, front bumper and rear bumper, you eliminate all the body lines that keep it from fitting flush. Therefore leaving you with a thin cap that lays down flat on to the new body with body post holes right where you want them. Save your templates and you can mount up a body in just a few minutes. I saw Paul Limeux with these at Snowbirds 2 years ago and I have been using his idea since.
Bonadona is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 04:08 PM   #12
Tech Elite
 
JasonC's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: oceanside ca
Posts: 4,099
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonadona View Post
This is what I do to save alot of time. I only run a Mazda speed 6 or an LTC. So after I have one of each that has been mounted perfectly, I will take it and cut off all the sides, rear and front of the body leaving only the hood, roof and trunk. It is basically a thin cap that I can lay down on top of the new body. The only reason you can't just slip an old body over a new on is because it will not fit flush on top of the new. By removing the sides, front bumper and rear bumper, you eliminate all the body lines that keep it from fitting flush. Therefore leaving you with a thin cap that lays down flat on to the new body with body post holes right where you want them. Save your templates and you can mount up a body in just a few minutes. I saw Paul Limeux with these at Snowbirds 2 years ago and I have been using his idea since.
+1

These are also pretty helpful I'd your body is already painted http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...219&p_catid=44
__________________
#60 of the Original 100
If your not part of the solution
Your part of the problem !
JasonC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:32 PM   #13
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY/FL
Posts: 3,376
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

+2. Thats a darned good idea. Never thought of that one but I'll try it after my VTA body gets a bit trashed.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2011, 05:58 PM   #14
Tech Regular
 
fullout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: mississauga
Posts: 316
Send a message via MSN to fullout
Default

i mainly run mazdapseed6's or LTCR's so i have my body posts cut fairly short. And what i do is roughly trim the body to height then lay the body on top of the mounts then line up where you will want your wheel wells to be, then from underneath use a flashlight to create a shadow of the body post's on the body and mark them on the top side with a marker. Once you have reemed the post holes Then i mark the center's of the wheels and use a circle cutter for the wheel wells.

A good trick to get the proper height of the bottom edge of your body is to run a standard sharpee on it's side along your setup board marking the side of the body while it's on the car. Doing this will give you i think roughly 5-6mm clearance.

It's quick and easy
__________________
Daniel Weinstein
Xray T4 15, Xray XB8 14, Xray XB4 14, Kyosho TKI 3, Kyosho RB6, Sanwa M12
rcamerica.com
performancehobbies.ca
orcarc.com
fullout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2015, 10:09 AM   #15
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 2,090
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

these are some really good ideas.. this is my first TC.. and i have a quick easy question about the bottom line of the car.. i like the sharpie idea..

is there a close.. or ballpark number.. like.. 5mm clearance you need.. when the car has the body trimmed.. mounted.. to make it so it doesnt scrape. or.. just barely scrapes when at speed?

so. when car is sitting.. the clearance of the body from the ground.. to cover downforce?
__________________
Daniel Grobe
----------------------
Sponsors:
Proline Racing / RC America / Xray
dgrobe2112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:52 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net