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Old 09-19-2001, 07:39 AM   #31
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I would lube the parts that are binding too...what can it hurt?

For the upgrades...mdiracing carries them all in stock, as well as about any stock items you would need I think. however, I asked about the carbon battery straps because I didn't see them on the wall but they are on the main rclab site. Apparently, they aren't in production anymore because they looked better than they worked:

1.They found the plastic ones to work better at holding batteries
2.The carbon ones could cause chassis tweak the way they hold down.

I thought of maybe getting some Xray ones because they have that convenient thumbscrew and swivel hardware - no pins. I have an Xray that I'm selling so I didn't want to open the bag and try it! I'll keep you guys posted if I get them and try them seperately. Schumacher ones may work too and I might ask spooky to use his!
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Old 09-19-2001, 07:43 AM   #32
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RC Lab is from Hong Kong. Which I imagine helps in keeping the costs down. Also, they have many parts shared front/rear and I'm sure that keeps costs down on tooling, etc.
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Old 09-19-2001, 08:26 AM   #33
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Thanks 7Even for all your ideas.

I didn't like the slop that I noticed as the CVDs and axles can slide in and out in the bearings. I am thinking about putting spacers between cvd and bearings so that the axles can't move outward. Have found some nylon ones that I am thinking about buying. I want to keep the rotational mass down.

The directions that came with this car are frustrating. I think that since I got it used, I might have lost some addendums. Example, I don't see where the ball and cup parts numbers are mentioned that attach to the rear steering block.

Is there a place where you can get a pdf exploded view of this car, or fuller, udpated directions?

That is good to hear about the delrin and aluminum parts that fit a little better.

Thanks for this discussion!

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Old 09-19-2001, 04:55 PM   #34
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Sent back in my Ford GT-40 body to Proline, it had some problems in the front, right out of the package, and they are going to replace it for me, and send me some stickers. What bodies are each of you running?

Bummer, my nylon spacers are not the right size. So I'll have to make another trip to the hobby store. I will let you know when I have a part number that would be useful for you all.

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Old 09-20-2001, 10:29 PM   #35
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hey spooky, youre joining the lab cult huh?
hopefully mine will be here by next week!!!
and hopefully ill have enough time to run it during the winter season here!!
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Old 09-21-2001, 01:38 AM   #36
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The stock gearing is OK for use with a stock motor and even a 19Turn Spec-Mod (Chameleon) motor on some tracks. If you aren't getting up to full speed on your motor then gear down a little.
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Old 09-21-2001, 04:18 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cmotif
Sent back in my Ford GT-40 body to Proline, it had some problems in the front, right out of the package, and they are going to replace it for me, and send me some stickers. What bodies are each of you running?

Bummer, my nylon spacers are not the right size. So I'll have to make another trip to the hobby store. I will let you know when I have a part number that would be useful for you all.

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Use part number 7S-410, the correct shims/spacers for the job.
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Old 09-21-2001, 05:36 AM   #38
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Gearing..... is everybody in the US running 48p ? or u guys switch to 64 ?

I have seen some Set-up sheets with 48p info running a 96t spur... Anyone have a take on this ?
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Old 09-21-2001, 07:44 AM   #39
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I going to be running 48 pitch. I have too many pinions to want to switch to something else.

I am going to start our with stock pinion and spur, and then probably go to a smaller pinion for our short, tight course. Want to see what stock looks like before I do anything. Going to be running a tuned MVP.

Have noticed that there is not much motor clearance, if you have to solder on your own caps, I think that it would be really easy to have them touch the aluminum. Surface mounted cap motors seem to be the way to go.



Question: Do you ever have problems with motor spring shunts touching aluminum or chassis? I don't want a short!

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Old 09-22-2001, 09:18 PM   #40
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Old 09-23-2001, 02:47 AM   #41
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I haven't had any problems in shorting w/mine. Not w/motor caps. I have noticed though that if your battery packs aren't sealed in heat shrink that the batteries can short to the carbon chassis...as is possible w/any carbon chassis parts from any brand of car. I mount my XXL receiver on the front top deck and on a block of foam to set it plenty above the carbon. The batteries will short if you don't protect them.
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Old 09-23-2001, 02:53 AM   #42
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The directions do have some "issues". I'm noting the real problems and plan to pass on the info. One of the most frustrating is mounting the rear camber linkages...it just says where to mount them and doesn't show what hardware to use or what hole to put it in! As well, you'll also find that if you don't have some extra hardware of your own for the servos and such...that you are going to be a few screws short. Keep the bottom cap screws tight under the front steering blocks. They will come loose after some impacts. The good news is that I still haven't really broken anything on the car. On the rear susp.arms I had a shock mount come out of the threads, I just used one of the other 2 available shock mounting holes, not a big deal and was able to keep racing next heat.
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Old 09-23-2001, 02:56 AM   #43
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If you are not used to having a front one-way unit...this will be new for you. If you are on a tight track I would strongly recommend getting the alum.diff. for the front too. Easier to drive. As well, get the diff from mdi racing and they will do the blade-conversion for free. You only pay for the plastic blade tip things. $2.50 USD. see 'em at www.mdiracing.com
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Old 09-23-2001, 09:59 AM   #44
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Thanks 7Even. I thought that some of the parts had been lost, since I got it used. But I had noticed the missing information on the rear linkages, and the just plain missing steering linkages. I wanted the RC Lab captured ball linkages for steering (Because they should be BULLETPROOF), so I bought them from www.speedtechrc.com.

That is good what you said about not breaking anything. I was sick of breaking stuph.

Here is a question, when my alunimum outdrive eventually get ragged looking, it is still ok when to send them in for the blad conversion? I don't have to use brand new ones to get the conversion right?

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Old 10-02-2001, 11:10 AM   #45
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You can send in the alum.diff after you have used it, sure. I had mine done after some use. No, you don't have to have new stuff. However, something worth noting is that if you run on tighter "USA-style" tracks...you may want to put an alum.diff up front too instead of the one-way. The car is much easier to drive that way.


Sorry I've been busy lately and not posting so much!
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