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Old 09-15-2001, 04:02 PM   #16
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he offered to do mine when I bought it, he just added 2.50 for the few parts. I suspect he'll do the same for you or at least let you know about it.
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Old 09-15-2001, 08:56 PM   #17
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cool, hopefully ill catch les online tonite!
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Old 09-16-2001, 07:34 AM   #18
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Default What are the longest lasting front suspension arms for this car?

I can hardly wait to get the Seven Even. I piloted my Street Weapon for the last time at our races yesterday. I unfortunately upgraded to an aluminum bulkhead, and have been breaking a-arms ever since. Went ten months with breaking 2 suspension arms, but after the bulkhead, last month have broken literally at least 10 a-arms, both graphite and composite, and little hits too. Just tired of it. Obviously the fix is just to go to back to composite bulkhead on the SW.

So tell me how the Seven Even does.

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Old 09-17-2001, 12:34 AM   #19
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the 7even suspension arms are simply great. the stock ones or the delrin upgrades. the rear arm is completely solid...not a hole in it except for hardware stuff. the front arm has only a hole in it for the hub carrier (C-shaped thingy that the CVD goes through). that and for hardware, that's it. they are kinda short too...means less leverage to break it too. I haven't broken any yet. I have the stock ones and the delrin. I put on the stock ones for learning the car and figured I would have broken them by now...still haven't (I used to have a TC3...it broke a lot and I'm just used to that I guess). Haven't broken anything on it yet except the bumper...and it was only stressed. I didn't have to replace at all, but did. I didn't even know it was stressed until the next day (cleaning it up). big impact straight on. the stock arms have pretty tight tolerances in assembly and bind the suspension travel a little bit. I carefully filed the parts that made contact little bit at a time until I had no binding w/out shocks on it. be carefull though...too much filiing and you get slop. the delrin arms had no slop and no drag/binding. Very cool. if you do break the stock ones, they are cheap to replace...less than $5/pair I think. The delrin arms are a bit expensive at around $16-something each. Then again, I don't think I will ever - EVER - break them. If I do, there will certainly be some other stuff broken too.
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Old 09-17-2001, 08:24 AM   #20
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Delrin, hmmm. I am not familiar with that material, what is it like? Is it somewhat like a Graphite composite?

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Old 09-17-2001, 08:46 AM   #21
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i think delrin is like a tough plastic.
i do know its very lightweight and receives very little wear!
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Old 09-17-2001, 10:08 PM   #22
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Delrin is a very strong, durable and lightweight plastic-type of material. I think what makes it so different is the process in which it is used. Delrin parts are not poured into a mould...they are CNC machined out of a block...like aluminium parts are machined out of a block of alum.stock. So, the Delrin stuff is very hard, very resilient and also very smooth and almost silky smooth as if it were impregnated with teflon or wax or silicone-type stuff. Basically, you get the lightweight of plastic parts and also the resiliency without having the problems of molded plastic parts. Also, you get the firmness and exacting tolerances of CNC machined aluminium parts without having the problems associated w/some aluminium stuff. I find the Delrin arms to be very nice, kinda pricey though. oh well...I have no idea how much I spent over time on TC3 arms. I don't know if I'll ever break the Delrin arms. You can look on the megatech site to see some other uses of Delrin and also some cars come with delrin stuff as stock now. I know the OFNA OB4 Int'l (electric 1/10) diff outdrives are made of Delrin. It's good stuff.
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Old 09-17-2001, 10:15 PM   #23
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actually, $15 an arm of delrin for the lab is cheap, i could swear the tc3 delrin parts were much more!
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Old 09-17-2001, 10:20 PM   #24
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Default I got it! I am a Seven owner!

It is gorgeous, and I just want to thank my seller again. I think that is was never run.

Came with a lot of spare parts and was missing only a couple of little things, like wheel nuts, the steering servo link, body clips. The plastic battery covers look a little chewed up as the previous owner cut off the Seven logo on them to lighten it.

I like how the steering blocks are used again in the back. That is very cool. I am the son of an engineer, so for some reason I groove on that.

Graphite, or Carbon fibre battery covers, are those available in the states? SpeedtechRC didn't list all the hop up parts. I think that I could probably talk to Steve and get him to order them, but I was wondering if someone stocks them, and if anyone has run some of them. I don't think that I am going to need to upgrade with the people that I run with. I think that the Seven Even 6 is one of the smoothest, best designed cars that I have every seen.

Are you running servo savers or not? I run a Hi-tec digital servo, that is said to be unbreakable. Any suggestions? The servo saver that came with it, does not look like it will fit on my servo.

What pinions are you running for stock? I haven't seen a pinion as big as the one that comes stock.

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Old 09-18-2001, 02:30 PM   #25
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I was need help with what pinions to use with the kit in stock class we run on a tight track
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Old 09-18-2001, 05:50 PM   #26
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Thumbs down Grrrr!

Tell me that I am not wasting my time and during the wrong thing. I was taking a really good look at the Seven and noticed that it was built with both R1.5 steering blocks in the front, and both L1.5 steering blocks in the back. I am tearing the car apart to fix those. I figured that if they were 0 degree blocks, no big deal, but if those are wrong, it could be put the car off 3 degrees right?

I also noticed a clicking in the back. I finally traced it to the belt, then traced it to a little bit of plastic left over in the molding process on the rear pulley. I will clean it up.

Your thoughts?

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Old 09-18-2001, 09:10 PM   #27
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Chiz... I drove Les's car the other night.....

Wow... I like it ! My current ride is an AXIS 2, and I liked the 7 as much. Very easy to drive. Now I have to try and find the money for one of these bad boys....
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Old 09-18-2001, 09:11 PM   #28
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Default Rear Right Steering block binding.

Rear Right Steering block binding, to the point that I think that it might effect suspension speed. Do I sand it? Do I lube it? What should I do?

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Old 09-19-2001, 12:14 AM   #29
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In what country is RCLad manufactured???? Where is the HQ for the RCLAB company?
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Old 09-19-2001, 07:32 AM   #30
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I would switch the L and R so that you have the "L" parts on the left and the "R" parts on....you get the idea. Looking at them, I'm not seeing any real difference, but I'm sure there is.

On the binding issues, I would say to sand them very very lightly. On my own kit new using all stock parts I found the tolerances to be a little too tight (much better than too loose). So I carefully sanded a little at a time until the suspension didn't bind. However, I accidentally sanded on a slight angle in a hurry and ended up sanding a little too much and now I have some slop in it. SO BE CAREFUL not to screw up your own. I have found that the upgrade aluminum and/or delrin stuff all fits great with no slop or binding...then again it is CNC Machined, so that is to be expected.
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