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Old 02-17-2011, 07:12 PM   #16
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That adjustment you found on the radio is the "steering trim" which is the first thing to adjust when dealing with a wandering car. But there's many more things you can adjust as well, although diagnosing over the internet is not ideal. Is there a hobby shop, track, or club near you? Even if it's oval, dirt, or a flying field, most hobbyists will be happy to help a newbie. Swing by them and you'll learn a ton in a short period of time.
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yeah you need to find some one that can actually show you how to set up the car.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:29 AM   #17
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yer see that's the thing i wouldn't have a clue do they usually advertise where they are, do they have websites, i'm not even sure they are big down under.
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:15 PM   #18
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This forum and Google will be your friend. Read heaps and search heaps.
Like I said before, "search" heaps.

Scroll down the home page of this forum and you'll see:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing-29/
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:31 AM   #19
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ok so 1 final question, do you think i should spend money on a good battery or just pick up a cheapie from hong kong, there $15 for 5000mah 7.2v ni-mh!! thats heaps good, but im not sure on the quality, what do people usually do? thanks.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:53 AM   #20
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Get a decent battery. You can always use it in another car and should last a long time if looked after and charged correctly!
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:02 AM   #21
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ok so 1 final question, do you think i should spend money on a good battery or just pick up a cheapie from hong kong, there $15 for 5000mah 7.2v ni-mh!! thats heaps good, but im not sure on the quality, what do people usually do? thanks.
In your situation I would go for a Nicd if you find one. They're a lot cheaper these days and a lot more forgiving than Nimh, so they last a lot longer through abuse and improper use and charging. Try Tandy's, Dick Smith, and hobby shops. If you told us where you live, we could have pointed you a bit better, there's a lot of clubs around, and R/C is pretty serious bussiness in Australia.
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:41 AM   #22
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I'm also running a TT-01E with some tamiya options and this type of chassis is really underastimated.
At our last tamiyacup meeting there were only 2 GT2 drivers (who run with a TRF chassis and the 12T brushless motor from tamiya) faster then me.
The second fastest driver of the GT2 class did 25 rounds in about 5minutes and 3seconds, i did run 25 rounds in 5minutes and 7 seconds with a standard carsson motor (wich can be compared with a very good silvercan motor)
When you set-up the car correctly then it can be very competitive.
I could easily outrun 80% of the pilots who run there TRF chassis with a 12T brushless motor with just a TT-01E chassis.
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:04 PM   #23
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i live in five dock, so there are a few places i could check around. Aren't the batteries at dse of similar quality to those on eBay anyway??

thanks.

P.S im still waiting on the guy i bought this car from to chuck in my battery and charger, was supposed to come with both, but i got none, what batteries do they usually come with?
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:18 PM   #24
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I'm also running a TT-01E with some tamiya options and this type of chassis is really underastimated.
At our last tamiyacup meeting there were only 2 GT2 drivers (who run with a TRF chassis and the 12T brushless motor from tamiya) faster then me.
The second fastest driver of the GT2 class did 25 rounds in about 5minutes and 3seconds, i did run 25 rounds in 5minutes and 7 seconds with a standard carsson motor (wich can be compared with a very good silvercan motor)
When you set-up the car correctly then it can be very competitive.
I could easily outrun 80% of the pilots who run there TRF chassis with a 12T brushless motor with just a TT-01E chassis.
What you are describing sounds like there is some serious limiting factor in the equation. Either a control tire, or surface that does not allow the 12T BL setups to use their full potential. With proper tires, and on a good track a 12T BL system you should kill pretty much everything. Silvercans have no chance in hell.

We do run a similar GT class here and because of their control tire and our surface (carpet), it is easy to overpower the cars. Silvercans are more than plenty for the grip available. Compared to that, on the same track, the 17.5 class with a very good tire does 5 extra laps in 5minutes.

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i live in five dock, so there are a few places i could check around. Aren't the batteries at dse of similar quality to those on eBay anyway??

thanks.

P.S im still waiting on the guy i bought this car from to chuck in my battery and charger, was supposed to come with both, but i got none, what batteries do they usually come with?
They don't come with a battery, but you can use a stick pack. DSE and similar batteries are all the same, and come out of China. If your guy does not send the charger and battery (if they were included in the sale) you can return the car for a full refund. If you paid with a credit card over the web, just send the stuff back and cancel the transaction with your bank. Same with Paypal. If you paid cash, you're at the mercy of the vendor.

That would be a good idea, knowing what you want the car for, as then you can go an d buy a DF03 based car (there's buggies too on this chassis) which is easy to setup for either off or on road.

PS. Five dock is a bit obscure, can you be more explicit?
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:43 AM   #25
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What you are describing sounds like there is some serious limiting factor in the equation. Either a control tire, or surface that does not allow the 12T BL setups to use their full potential. With proper tires, and on a good track a 12T BL system you should kill pretty much everything. Silvercans have no chance in hell.

We do run a similar GT class here and because of their control tire and our surface (carpet), it is easy to overpower the cars. Silvercans are more than plenty for the grip available. Compared to that, on the same track, the 17.5 class with a very good tire does 5 extra laps in 5minutes.

We had our last race on a high traction carpet with a very technical layout.
Most of the guys do overpower there cars, but if they would setup the car and ESC how it should be done then they would do max 1 or 2 rounds more in a 5 minutes race.
When we go to big outdoor tracks then they will do some several extra rounds.
But what i'm trying to point out is that you can setup a TT-01(E) to a good level for competitive racing.
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:35 PM   #26
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new guy here, just built my first kit, went with TT01E Gallardo LED kit. substituted the ball bearings in right from the get go. This is really the only active T/S thread I have seen, so not to hijack your thread, but I am having a throttle issue, it runs fine for about 5 minutes, then it just stutters, like the throttle is turning on/off at about every other second. Can't find a reason to why it would do this.

I am going to keep searching but if any helpfuls out there would appreciate the input.
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:34 PM   #27
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new guy here, just built my first kit, went with TT01E Gallardo LED kit. substituted the ball bearings in right from the get go. This is really the only active T/S thread I have seen, so not to hijack your thread, but I am having a throttle issue, it runs fine for about 5 minutes, then it just stutters, like the throttle is turning on/off at about every other second. Can't find a reason to why it would do this.

I am going to keep searching but if any helpfuls out there would appreciate the input.
i get the same problem, but dead set i thought it was the battery, like if you hold the throttle like a little and slowly increase it gets faster then it starts to stutter. maybe it isnt the battery coz atm im using a 700mah battery lol so i didnt expect much i got like 5 mins max out of it then the stuttering started to happen.
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:06 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
We had our last race on a high traction carpet with a very technical layout.
Most of the guys do overpower there cars, but if they would setup the car and ESC how it should be done then they would do max 1 or 2 rounds more in a 5 minutes race.
When we go to big outdoor tracks then they will do some several extra rounds.
But what i'm trying to point out is that you can setup a TT-01(E) to a good level for competitive racing.
I agree but only on condition you don't try a high power application that will tax the chassis to the point that it is not sure you will finish a race. Spur holder get chewed up easily and with the BL systems we have these days, you will see the cost of replacing this that and the other all the time escalates pretty quickly. The best I have seen was a guy at our track who could race in stock brushed some time ago (27 turns) but any higher than that was absolutely a pain.

Stuttering can be indeed caused by a discharged battery. There can be other problems, but it is a good idea to start from there and work your way up. Next, I would check correct esc setup and trims (zero everything, set up speedy).
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:50 AM   #29
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i get the same problem, but dead set i thought it was the battery, like if you hold the throttle like a little and slowly increase it gets faster then it starts to stutter. maybe it isnt the battery coz atm im using a 700mah battery lol so i didnt expect much i got like 5 mins max out of it then the stuttering started to happen.
Well I took my battery to a local Hobby shop and they put it on a new charger and it charges fine. They gave me a new one, got home through it my car ran great for 10 minutes with the residual charge on the battery and then started to stutter again, I tried to charge it on my prophet charger set to 2 amps and it charged for 30 seconds and then beeped just like my last battery. I am bringing my battery, charger, and car up to the shop, I have a feeling my charger is just bad.
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:02 AM   #30
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That stuttering is a sign of the battery going flat!

Also 700Mah is not going to get you much run time. Depending on the type of racing you are doing you really don't want to do more than 10 minutes otherwise you will overheat the motor....unless you run a fan on the heatsink then it should be fine!
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