BritRacer

OK, I am sure this has been answered but I cannot find it.

I have a Twister 2 and a Twister..and have the PC cable and the OLD ICS handheld WITHOUT the card.

Will this work with the Twister 2.1?? or will I need to get a new one?

rcnewb2004

scoobydo,

I have asked that here on this forum before, but no one gave me an answer. Personally, I think it makes no difference. there is 7cm of wire between my esc and my motor. The only thing that i can think of which could even remotely that can affect the operation of a diode is wire resistance (unless this KO diode does not operate like a conventional schottky diode). However, I cannot see how 12 gauge wire inbetween (very minimal resistance) the diode and the motor can cause any difference.

I put my diode near the ESC. No problems with my car whatsoever due to that.

I would love to hear a technical explanation to this from KO.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

when ive spoken to robert.. he always recommends to place it as close to the motor as possible. but if your lazy (like me) placing it on the speedo also works. that way you dont always have to transfer the diode from motor to motor.

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

This is how I do it on my 415MSX. Due to the cap + heatsink I don't put it where others have. I splice the cable and put it inbetween the motor and the ESC. Works a treat.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the PC cable will still work. the handheld unit will not...that was designed for the VFS-2000

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

hi does anyone have this problem before?
i using 7x1 DC motor amature in orion V2 based and my final ratio is 8.9 and i runing pro 4 with front one way. the track temp around 36 to 42 celcius my ESC was shut down after continuously runing in 2 to 3 min. and it will run back after i had release my throttle and accelerate again in few sec. the temp of the motor is about 200 F and the ESC is about 150 F.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

whick esc are you using?

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

VFS-1 pro only not the competition version

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

that version has a lower temp cut-off than the comp.
you can DIY or send it to KO..and they can dissable the temp cut-off.

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

how to DIY???

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

see pic
2 options...cutting the wire or desoldering
cutting the wire is easiest.. and can be resoldered back together later on.

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

so did you try it before? you means that i only cut the wire #4 that show in pic that it? thanks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

nope...I sold the speedo before I tried it.
this was posted about a month ago...and Robert said basically cut the wire and that's it...
just a warning though...after you cut it...the esc will not have any thermal protection and risk frying the esc.... to keep it cool..put a heatsink on top.
KO webisite has one, Alex racing makes one, and the LRP Quantum heatsink
fits as well.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

btw... if you cut the wrong thing... that voids the warranty. if you dont live too far away. might be better to send it into Ko Propo USA and have them do the repair/modification.

KO PROPO Staff

KO USA will be releasing a copper based heat sink late next week. Testing has shown a 17% reduction in esc temperature. Aluminum heat sinks have only shown a 10-11% reduction. Lower temperatures increase the effectiveness of the FETs and the rest of the system.

We have been testing this design for several months and have been happy with the results.

Guo-
Try getting more air flow around your esc to keep the temp down for the time being.