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Old 09-02-2005, 12:35 PM   #1276
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
I'm planning to get the VSF-1. What should I buy, the pc adapter or the Multi Setting Adapter???

Thanks
I like the PC adapter..you can visually see your changes...
I recently purchased a cheap laptop to take to the track to make adjustments.... and it cost as much as the Multi setting adapter...
find a laptop for around $100.00 that has 1080x768 resolution and 9pin serial port and you're all set.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:39 PM   #1277
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Already have the laptop. Ill go with the adapter then. Thanks
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Old 09-02-2005, 01:08 PM   #1278
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Ever tried to measure the endbell temp? mine gets untoucably hot... maybe i have sensitive fingers... . But my com ain't changing color, so i think it s all good? Maybe a slight orangish ting... not sure. bad eyes.
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:02 PM   #1279
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Attached below is a pdf attachment which shows you each frequency step.


I currently run the setup below which I helped Goop with.
I would Recommend running this profile only if you have some good Gp3300 Packs with some runtime say 420. You can also adjust the Current limiter value which will give you more rip out of your motor(the higher the value the more current which is applied to the motor), the key thing to look at is the temp of the motor in addition to the brush life.

Current limiter: 160
Neutral brake: OFF
Throttle response: OFF
Power save voltage: 2.5 BEC
Frequency of brake: 32

5 <--- starting point for throttle curve
5
4
4
4
4
4
4
3
3
3
3
3
3
2
1 <--- throttle half way pressed (stage #16)
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17 <--- throttle fully pressed


There is Nine stages (off and 1-9) that can be set, One becoming the most Aggressive, and 9 becoming the mildest. Please test and look at the conditions of the track because the effect will differ. This may also be effective when combined with the throttle punch funtion of the transmitter when the track conditions are slippery and the motor is too aggressive.

As to what profile to run, I would Recommend running the Hara Worlds Profile for Touring car which can be found under the US Ko Propo Web Site http://www.kopropo.com/vfs_help.htm. Also I would recommend running the Ko Propo VFS-1 Pro Double Shotki Diode Part#KO45516 if you plan on running MOD.

I will also be attending the Sizzzzlllaaaaa, so If you still have questions or any concerns please dont hesitateto ask.

Best Regards

Alex C
Are those the same frequency numbers as used in the hand-held programmer? If so, I'm guessing that the 0.93-1.85Khz frequency range shown is only for stock racing?
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:15 PM   #1280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Are those the same frequency numbers as used in the hand-held programmer? If so, I'm guessing that the 0.93-1.85Khz frequency range shown is only for stock racing?
it'll work for 19T too. but it might require more maintenance on your motor/comm/brushes and the size of your track/. its a good foundation for a profile and you can tweak it from there.
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:16 AM   #1281
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Robert

have 1 issue on the V2.1...
when I hook it up to the PC and try to read the profile..
I get an error message that I never got when I had the V2..
I tried to write V2 profile onto V2.1 and it programmed the profile with no problems....
I then closed down the software and opened it up again and this time
it was able to read the profile....
I thought that it was only the one I got... but then I got a second V2.1
and same thing happen..
is this normal for the newer Carbon case versions?
anybody else have this odd occurance?

also though it might be my pc.. after I wrote and read the profiles again..took it my laptop...same thing happened...

after the initial problems...everything is fine...able to write and read profiles without any errors...
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Old 09-10-2005, 09:27 PM   #1282
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guys i have a question. The back of my schottky diode material is getting chipped off and it is revealing the board. What do i do?
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Old 09-11-2005, 12:01 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myker*
guys i have a question. The back of my schottky diode material is getting chipped off and it is revealing the board. What do i do?
this happened to mine. i just wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. later on, i replaced it with shrink wrap.
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:43 PM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
this happened to mine. i just wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. later on, i replaced it with shrink wrap.
thanks hebiki
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:44 PM   #1285
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guyz i also have a question on the shotki diode....do you have to replace the shotki diode if there is a crack near the negative side?
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:48 PM   #1286
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i managed to crack mine as well. Also is the capacitor really necesary for running stock. i noticed masimi usning what looked like the much more cap a few pages back. It just plugs int the reciever correct. I am also now running the Spectrum so i wonder if that would even be needed.
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:56 PM   #1287
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Has anyone ever seen a Capacitor pop? I switched the ESC with the freshly charged pack then it pop. I then cut the capacitor connections and the ESC is working fine. Just bizarre.
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:13 PM   #1288
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Danjoy25:

Hi.

I have popped a few caps on my speedos. including a set of doubles on my VFS-2 in my FK04, another set of doubles on my GTX, and blown the bottom off one on my GT7. two were from Novak. two from KO and one from a electroncs place.

Hebiki:

Hi,

If I have a programer for a VFS-2. can I just buy a card for my VFS-1 for programing??? or do I need another whole unit.
also what is a good stock/19t profile.......... com life is not a issue. (Sedans and maybe 1/12th scale) I have both speedos and really don't want to buy two programers.

Thanks
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:21 PM   #1289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimXLB
Danjoy25:

Hi.

I have popped a few caps on my speedos. including a set of doubles on my VFS-2 in my FK04, another set of doubles on my GTX, and blown the bottom off one on my GT7. two were from Novak. two from KO and one from a electroncs place.

Hebiki:

Hi,

If I have a programer for a VFS-2. can I just buy a card for my VFS-1 for programing??? or do I need another whole unit.
also what is a good stock/19t profile.......... com life is not a issue. (Sedans and maybe 1/12th scale) I have both speedos and really don't want to buy two programers.

Thanks
tcmerf: the small cap is for the spektrum so it doesnt cut out, if it does, set your cutoff voltage higher. robert posted the correct setting about 4 pages back.

IN10CT: mine are all cracked on the side. as long as the end is still attached your good to go. again, electrical tape or shrink wrap

TimXLB: yup.. just pick up a new card and again.. your good to go (same apply for the servos )

there's a profile (quoted) in the last page.. or 2 pages back. good baseline set up
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:35 PM   #1290
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You will need to define "pop". A spark and a slight "pop" sound with the capacitor installed is very usual because the charge is moving very quickly into the capacitor...

Without going into a lot of detail, everything's ok.

If your capacitor actually like "pops" as in "blows up", then u may have a problem on your hands.
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