Ko Propo VFS-1 ESC
#797

This is a dumb question, but I just picked up a Hara Twister 2, and was wondering if you are soldering your wires to the tabs, or to the speed control directly.
#800

Yes I think its the same it came with 3 gold solder posts already soldered on the speed control, do I unsolder these and put the wire directly to the speedo or do I solder the posts? Or does it not matter. Here is a pic
#801

whats the difference between a regular vfs-1 and the hara twister
#802

I dont think there is a difference. A lot of companies are using the vfs-1 platform for the speed controls
Rayspeed Adachi Speedo
Yokomo Masami Speedo
Hara Twister2 Speedo
Tamiya has one now thats a vfs-1 plattform
Anyway solder my wires to the post or to the speedo directly?
Rayspeed Adachi Speedo
Yokomo Masami Speedo
Hara Twister2 Speedo
Tamiya has one now thats a vfs-1 plattform
Anyway solder my wires to the post or to the speedo directly?
#803

Originally posted by Dan Hughes
According to Champ R/C Adviser there is a new version of the VFS1 being shown at the Shizunoka hobby show in a couple of weeks time. It has some new stuff in it that makes power delivery smoother. I'll let you know when i find out more.
According to Champ R/C Adviser there is a new version of the VFS1 being shown at the Shizunoka hobby show in a couple of weeks time. It has some new stuff in it that makes power delivery smoother. I'll let you know when i find out more.
EP competition level has been very costly to keep up to date...
Last edited by Pyramid; 05-07-2005 at 10:26 AM.
#804

Originally posted by kylehirano
I dont think there is a difference. A lot of companies are using the vfs-1 platform for the speed controls
Rayspeed Adachi Speedo
Yokomo Masami Speedo
Hara Twister2 Speedo
Tamiya has one now thats a vfs-1 plattform
Anyway solder my wires to the post or to the speedo directly?
I dont think there is a difference. A lot of companies are using the vfs-1 platform for the speed controls
Rayspeed Adachi Speedo
Yokomo Masami Speedo
Hara Twister2 Speedo
Tamiya has one now thats a vfs-1 plattform
Anyway solder my wires to the post or to the speedo directly?
Rayspeed - Adachi's profile
Yokomo - Masami's profile
Hara Twister 2 - Hara's profile (notice a pattern yet?

TRF VFS-1 came out before the three above. the TRF VFS-1 comes with the wires pre soldered.
Alex Racing is also coming out with their VFS-1 platform and it comes with various heatsinks in different colors.

mike.. ill dig up the profile and get to you bro.


#805

Originally posted by Pyramid
... already listed on RC World - May edt
EP competition level has been very costly to keep up to date...
... already listed on RC World - May edt
EP competition level has been very costly to keep up to date...
the VFS-1 now has a shut off feature that gets triggered in many different situations. the Comp. Level esc will not have it. This mostly benefits guys who run Modified.



#806

Ahhh, too many new gadgets coming out all the time in electric racing...
#807
Tech Adept

KO Staff/Hebiki..... Heeeeelp!
Think i have a VFS-1 thats been the victim of n00bism of the highest order!
SOMEHOW, whilst swapping motors and putting the shotki onto the motor just before a Series final (2 legs) i for some reason ive yet to know how, put it on the wrong way, i double checked before soldering, i even recall that i had to bend it the other way so it would fit as normal, so it was connected correctly. I did that, but somehow i'd done it wrong and when the car went down, the car didnt budge, ran to look at the car, saw it doing its little stutter checked the diode and realised what a prat i am, and (yes... i know) ripped the little Bl***er out of the car, and accepted braking was without doubt, no longer an option, something im rather fond of even though its only a 27t in there. Asside from the car being undrivable, it finished the race pretty patheticly, but in 1 peice.
As i have 2 VFS-1s (Karl/Berger has nicked the other one now, sorting his own car issues) i had 2 single diodes on the car, and the double i'd bought is on the B4 Motors, always being a Modified, when i'd ripped the shotki's out, i killed one of them pulling the post out completely, the other was ok, though it only had about 15mm 'legs', soldered it in CORRECTLY this time, took the car out for the 2nd final, was going absolutely beautifully, made up 4 places into 3rd in 3 laps and was giving the front 2 something to think about, when it dropped off, lost the punch out of the corners and then over 4 laps went from crawling speed to 'dont want to know' mode.
Figured the cells went dead, but after all the finals were run, i put a fresh set of cells into the car, took it out, seemed fine, then same sorta time into the run, dropped off, started crawling along, brought it to me, gave it some throttle in my hands, just slow, then same again, and it got slower and slower, and then just nothing, wouldnt turn over etc
Switched it off, went to the pit table, removed the shotki, put it down off she goes, but does the same but sooner.
I cant think of anything other than the ESC which could be 'faulty' i can imagine the KO response to the problem without asking it, but is it likely the 5min run (without braking) has caused this weird situation? For it to finish fine over 5min without i thought it would be ok, but then with it installed its developed this problem.
Any possible suggestions?
Nothing but a fresh pair of brushes, cells and a correctly wired shokti changed between the 2 finals, but somethings definately gone wrong from a car able to push for top 3 A final places to dead in 7 laps.
I have a Buggy National in 2 weeks (sat), and then the next round of this Touring car series the day after, 1 working ESC currently in someone elses car, and 1 near dead looking ESC in my own.
Asside from Mugging Karl, What can i do?
Think i have a VFS-1 thats been the victim of n00bism of the highest order!
SOMEHOW, whilst swapping motors and putting the shotki onto the motor just before a Series final (2 legs) i for some reason ive yet to know how, put it on the wrong way, i double checked before soldering, i even recall that i had to bend it the other way so it would fit as normal, so it was connected correctly. I did that, but somehow i'd done it wrong and when the car went down, the car didnt budge, ran to look at the car, saw it doing its little stutter checked the diode and realised what a prat i am, and (yes... i know) ripped the little Bl***er out of the car, and accepted braking was without doubt, no longer an option, something im rather fond of even though its only a 27t in there. Asside from the car being undrivable, it finished the race pretty patheticly, but in 1 peice.
As i have 2 VFS-1s (Karl/Berger has nicked the other one now, sorting his own car issues) i had 2 single diodes on the car, and the double i'd bought is on the B4 Motors, always being a Modified, when i'd ripped the shotki's out, i killed one of them pulling the post out completely, the other was ok, though it only had about 15mm 'legs', soldered it in CORRECTLY this time, took the car out for the 2nd final, was going absolutely beautifully, made up 4 places into 3rd in 3 laps and was giving the front 2 something to think about, when it dropped off, lost the punch out of the corners and then over 4 laps went from crawling speed to 'dont want to know' mode.
Figured the cells went dead, but after all the finals were run, i put a fresh set of cells into the car, took it out, seemed fine, then same sorta time into the run, dropped off, started crawling along, brought it to me, gave it some throttle in my hands, just slow, then same again, and it got slower and slower, and then just nothing, wouldnt turn over etc
Switched it off, went to the pit table, removed the shotki, put it down off she goes, but does the same but sooner.
I cant think of anything other than the ESC which could be 'faulty' i can imagine the KO response to the problem without asking it, but is it likely the 5min run (without braking) has caused this weird situation? For it to finish fine over 5min without i thought it would be ok, but then with it installed its developed this problem.
Any possible suggestions?
Nothing but a fresh pair of brushes, cells and a correctly wired shokti changed between the 2 finals, but somethings definately gone wrong from a car able to push for top 3 A final places to dead in 7 laps.
I have a Buggy National in 2 weeks (sat), and then the next round of this Touring car series the day after, 1 working ESC currently in someone elses car, and 1 near dead looking ESC in my own.
Asside from Mugging Karl, What can i do?
#809
Tech Fanatic
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OK, I have a question on the VFS. I am running a KO servo that uses a FET wire to my LRP. I want to replace the LRP because it is an orginal Q1 (so it is fairly old). I know the the blue wire out of the ESC is switched, so do I install a second switch and run it to the batt. since the VFS doesn't have a FET wire?
#810

No you donīt need that second switch. But you should use a choke as the one delivered with the servo.