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Old 03-28-2006, 11:53 AM   #1831
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Here is what the manual says to do:
  • Hold down the set button while switching the power to the ON position. Hold the button down until the LED light comes on and release.
  • The LED light will repeat a pattern of flashing once. Leave the throttle trigger in the neutral position and press the set button once.
  • The LED light will repeat a pattern of flashing two times. The throttle trigger should be pulled to the full forward position and held while the set button should be pushed once.
  • The LED light repeats a pattern of blinking three times. The throttle trigger is pushed to the full brake position and held while pushing the set button once.
  • When the standard setting is completed, LED will remain on and full operation of the throttle/break is possible. Turn the power off and connect the motor. When the power on/off switch is cut before a standard setting is completed, the setting is not memorized. You will need to perform the setting of the speed controller again.
The only time that I have not been able to complete this standard setting mode is when the CPU fried in our Twister 2.0 ESC. That required a complete replacement as it could not be fixed.
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Last edited by B&B Racing; 04-07-2006 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:57 AM   #1832
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Hi All hoping someone can advise on a problem I have with the vfs-1. The ultimate schotty diode that attaches to the motor keeps getting destroyed on my Xray as it sticks out so I was wondering whether I could solder it direct to the pos and neg on the esc?? This would make changing motors and paying $25 for a replacement much better.

Any help appreciated.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:10 AM   #1833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Hi All hoping someone can advise on a problem I have with the vfs-1. The ultimate schotty diode that attaches to the motor keeps getting destroyed on my Xray as it sticks out so I was wondering whether I could solder it direct to the pos and neg on the esc?? This would make changing motors and paying $25 for a replacement much better.

Any help appreciated.
Yes you can...may be a bit less effective, but works. Many people around here does that...
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Old 04-04-2006, 05:30 AM   #1834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Hi All hoping someone can advise on a problem I have with the vfs-1. The ultimate schotty diode that attaches to the motor keeps getting destroyed on my Xray as it sticks out so I was wondering whether I could solder it direct to the pos and neg on the esc?? This would make changing motors and paying $25 for a replacement much better.

Any help appreciated.
Works just the same if you solder it directly to the ESC's positive/negative terminals. Wrap the contact wires with shrink tube to protect it from short circuit.

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Old 04-11-2006, 01:00 AM   #1835
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Works just the same if you solder it directly to the ESC's positive/negative terminals. Wrap the contact wires with shrink tube to protect it from short circuit.

I am going to be doing this .... just to confirm though I connect it to the esc's + terminal and the middle (blue) terminal that goes to the motor ... not the terminal that goes to the battery?
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Old 04-11-2006, 01:56 AM   #1836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
I am going to be doing this .... just to confirm though I connect it to the esc's + terminal and the middle (blue) terminal that goes to the motor ... not the terminal that goes to the battery?
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Old 04-11-2006, 04:40 AM   #1837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
I am going to be doing this .... just to confirm though I connect it to the esc's + terminal and the middle (blue) terminal that goes to the motor ... not the terminal that goes to the battery?
Connect it to both motor terminals on the ESC, blue and red. Check the diode's polarity well before soldering.

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Last edited by Nicadrauspro4; 04-11-2006 at 05:36 AM.
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Old 04-11-2006, 04:46 AM   #1838
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Connect it to both battery terminals on the ESC, black and red. Check the diode's polarity well before soldering.

Surely this is wrong .... it is a diode and goes on the terminals that feed the motor????? As generally you have it direct on the motor!
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Old 04-11-2006, 04:54 AM   #1839
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Good catch!! You would put it across the MOTOR terminals on the ESC.
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Old 04-11-2006, 05:27 AM   #1840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Surely this is wrong .... it is a diode and goes on the terminals that feed the motor????? As generally you have it direct on the motor!
Oh yeah...

My mistake. Sorry for that. I'm still in a daze.

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Old 04-11-2006, 06:38 AM   #1841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Hi All hoping someone can advise on a problem I have with the vfs-1. The ultimate schotty diode that attaches to the motor keeps getting destroyed on my Xray as it sticks out so I was wondering whether I could solder it direct to the pos and neg on the esc?? This would make changing motors and paying $25 for a replacement much better.

Any help appreciated.
Try using a externally mounted diode, this one is Novak, but MuchMore now make two too.
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Ko Propo VFS-1 ESC-diode.jpg  
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:50 AM   #1842
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Default condenser/shotki

do I need to use the ultimate condenser for stock rubber ? and where can I get a shotki diode thanks
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Old 04-15-2006, 06:15 AM   #1843
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just recieved twister2.1 can anybody tell me if the pc adapter cable from the original twister will work? tried to email ko, no reply so i'll see if they answer on here
if cable is different which one do i need

thanks
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Old 04-15-2006, 06:52 AM   #1844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
and where can I get a shotki diode thanks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go


http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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Old 04-15-2006, 07:18 AM   #1845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattlr2
just recieved twister2.1 can anybody tell me if the pc adapter cable from the original twister will work? tried to email ko, no reply so i'll see if they answer on here
if cable is different which one do i need

thanks
The cable will work on both models.

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