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Old 01-04-2006, 12:34 PM   #1636
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Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Okay, so I am looking for a 8200F cap. rated at 25V. Is it correct that if that spark is gone when I hook up my batteries, it cap. is bad?
i remember mine used to spark until i replaced the cap. but that was awhile ago. so yes, your cap could be bad. the spark should be gone when you put on a new cap. i have no real evidence of this, just my past experience.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:39 PM   #1637
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No the spark is okay, it is because there is a high instant current flow to charge the capacitor when you connect the battery pack.
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Old 01-04-2006, 02:37 PM   #1638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartarse88
No the spark is okay, it is because there is a high instant current flow to charge the capacitor when you connect the battery pack.
That's what I thought. I am going to get it replaced. Thanks
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Old 01-04-2006, 08:27 PM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
is it okay to solder the diode to the batt + and batt - terminals rather that to the motor - terminal as the diode is to big to fit in the 1/12 scale pod
I fit my diode in the pod of my 12L4. I just put it on top of the motor wires. The diode was shortened some.
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:43 AM   #1640
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I picked up a slightly used VFS1Pro w/programmer and card as part of a package. I was going to sell it on but now I'm anxious to give it a shot. The installation and initial set-up (match to transmitter) instructions were clear enough but I was disappointed to see there isn't any discussion of how to attain default settings for the programming nor is there any discussion of the effects of or theory behind the programming.

Can anybody shed some light or direct me to a resource for same? I'm pretty sure all the instructions are with the products as the fellow I bought this stuff from sent the instructions for EVERYTHING including ball cups and turnbuckles

Many thanks in advance!

Scottrik
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:45 AM   #1641
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once you overwrite the default settings, the only way to get them back is to re-program the esc as normal.

try the ko website, I think there are handheld programmer instructions.
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:59 AM   #1642
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I've got no idea if the default (which really isn't, it appears if it has to be entirely re-coded) has been overwritten or not--I just assume it has. I've got the handheld programmer instructions (single side of page, mostly having to do with installing AAA batteries ) and the back page of the Setting Card manual has some cursory discussion of the settings, but nothing that makes me comfortable with screwing around in there.

Always nice to have a default you can swim back to if you completely muck things up.

Can someone direct me to the KO website area that might have the information I need to get comfy with this device?

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:03 AM   #1643
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www.kopropo.com

there are profiles on there for different motor/track types.

Connect the esc to a battery pack. Plug the esc into the handheld adaptor.

Turn on handheld.

Push and hold the button and turn on the esc.

Wait till light goes out and release esc button.

On handheld, go till you get RX, and select. This will read data from the esc, you can then scroll through and look at what is in it.

To reprogram, look at one of the profiles and enter it it, then hit TX

done
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:01 AM   #1644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KO PROPO Staff
There is a thremal cutt off (set very high) in the esc but if you trigger it, most likely you have damaged the esc.
Can you adjust the thermo cut-off?
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:07 AM   #1645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
Can you adjust the thermo cut-off?
factory set...non-adjustable.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:34 AM   #1646
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Now, i've kind of followed this thread a bit, but maybe not 100%.

So, can i just confirm that the only difference between "old (pro)" and "New (pro comp)" is the temp cutoff, and settings that can be changed with the PC interface.

cheers.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:12 PM   #1647
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trf_racer- get one of the new copper based heatsinks. Thermo problems will go away. We've tested the heatsink with a 7x2 motor and could not get the esc to thermo cut.

Matt- The 'Comp' version has the higher thermo cut off, the carbon fiber looking case and is pre-programmed with an aggressive mod setting.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:40 PM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
I've got no idea if the default (which really isn't, it appears if it has to be entirely re-coded) has been overwritten or not--I just assume it has. I've got the handheld programmer instructions (single side of page, mostly having to do with installing AAA batteries ) and the back page of the Setting Card manual has some cursory discussion of the settings, but nothing that makes me comfortable with screwing around in there.

Always nice to have a default you can swim back to if you completely muck things up.

Can someone direct me to the KO website area that might have the information I need to get comfy with this device?

Thanks,

Scottrik

Scott, the default setting for the VFS-1 is set at 36 all the way across the entire profile. this is really way too soft for stock or 19T motors. its a neutral setting for mod motors.

here is the link to the VFS help center on the Ko propo site:
http://www.kopropo.com/vfs_help.htm

there are also some profiles here for stock and 19T... just search back a several pages and you'll see some. hope that helps!
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:30 PM   #1649
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Thank you, i thought i had got it right.

Now, briefly can someone tell me about the "power save" setting, i seem to remember seeing somewhere that this can (has to ??) be set differently when running with a 302 reciever.

Initially, i'm going to be putting VFS 1 in my 12th car, with 302 reciever and 949 servo. Probbaly be running rx pack - i did see the post a while back that the positive reciever wire needs removing and both switches switched. Can't be so lazy now, LRP speedo only needs rx pack switching one!!
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:36 PM   #1650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW
Thank you, i thought i had got it right.

Now, briefly can someone tell me about the "power save" setting, i seem to remember seeing somewhere that this can (has to ??) be set differently when running with a 302 reciever.

Initially, i'm going to be putting VFS 1 in my 12th car, with 302 reciever and 949 servo. Probbaly be running rx pack - i did see the post a while back that the positive reciever wire needs removing and both switches switched. Can't be so lazy now, LRP speedo only needs rx pack switching one!!
matt

you only change the power save setting on your VFS if you are using the spektrum. i believe the setting is 3.5v

you can leave it on its default setting when you using the 302/949. Robert can better answer your question about the rx pack. ive never run 1/12th. so i wouldnt know.
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