seaball

iTrader: (9)

that's good stuff.

JamieV

I am trying to use the alternative rear roll bar position on the wishbone and have the parts. The roll bar just dosen't seem long enough as the roll bar upright links have to lean backwards to fix onto the roll bar. Any one using this position that can advise what I am doing wrong?


Thanks

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

currently the highest bidder , hope i win lol

transplantlife

iTrader: (47)

I hope you win too!!

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=JamieV;9977336]I am trying to use the alternative rear roll bar position on the wishbone and have the parts. The roll bar just dosen't seem long enough as the roll bar upright links have to lean backwards to fix onto the roll bar. Any one using this position that can advise what I am doing wrong?

i have not used this position but have you tried turning the ball end around that slides onto the sway bar or doeas this make no differance ?

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I recently acquired a first generation S411 (400005?) from a friend. I've been reading this thread a little and from what I understand...this version of the S411 is basically useless and needing numerous upgrades to be competitive. It's fitted with the 2.5 chassis, another racing buddy told me that the 2.25 chassis makes the car more driveable. Can someone fill me in?

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

Negative! Whatever gave you that idea?

While there is some slight differences in the 1st version and the 2nd version, unless you are at a very high level of skill (read; A-main World level racer) I doubt that you will notice the changes. I don't know why everyone is jumping on the 2.25 mm chassis bandwagon to be honest. I have both and I am more impressed with how the car runs with the 2.5 mm chassis indoors. I run the one-piece motor mount with 8 screws holding the top-deck on (removing the two in the rear part of the top deck that are closest to the center of the car) and the car seems to be great on a medium traction surface. I switched from the 2.25 to the 2.5 and the car got more consistent. As long as the car is not bashed to hell with bent parts, you are going to do just fine with it.

jake95

iTrader: (27)

hi,
i have build the serpent gear diff several times trying to get it right is it normall for it to be notchy?
thanks
jake

Jinjiro7

That's incorrect. Version 1 works great. Options such as the 2.25 chassis and hard arms are simply tuning options. If you read at the beginning of the thread, early reviews said car has plenty of steering and was comparable to other high end cars. And the only thing that you needed to do to keep the rear end stable were setup changes.

QUOTE=pcar951;9979569]I recently acquired a first generation S411 (400005?) from a friend. I've been reading this thread a little and from what I understand...this version of the S411 is basically useless and needing numerous upgrades to be competitive. It's fitted with the 2.5 chassis, another racing buddy told me that the 2.25 chassis makes the car more driveable. Can someone fill me in?[/QUOTE]

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Thanks guys, I'll put some electronics in it and get it on the track. I'll let you all know how it goes, I'll probably be posting some stupid questions.

DanDan

iTrader: (6)

It is normal, and after about 10 pack runs, open it up, drain all metal color oil, put the tiny shims for the small gears, fill up and tighten it again.

I done it that way and the diff last for 4 months without fail, many many runs on it..

jake95

iTrader: (27)

okay thanks dandan

stephenianjames

iTrader: (28)

I purchased a 2.25mm version S411 a couple of months ago, and have only 1/3 completed the build (due to time constraints). So far the kit has gone together flawlessly.

When news of the S411LE came about, I pre-ordered one through my LHS (RAB Hobbies in Melbourne, Australia) and much to Ren's dismay, I'm going to run the LE car (minus engraved chassis). I know it's collectable and sacrelidge etc, but the orange alloy bits will compliment my orange Viper ESC/motor combo and Savox servo. I'm just hoping I don't bust/bend any orange alloy bits, as then my future plans to retire/shelf the car will be thwarted....

Does anyone else plan to run their LE's, or are they all going into a time capsule?

Cheers,

Steve

BCDK

Hi.

You do nothing wrong. The anti roll bar is a little short for the mounting on the front side of the rear wishbone. The upright links has to lean back as you write. I know, that Marc Fischer always use that mounting, and his car looks really great, when he drives. So you see it works.

I have written to Serpent about this, and they will in the future make the anti roll bar slightly longer to fix this little problem.

If you don't like this mounting, you can maybe try the anti roll bar from a Tamiya 416/417 or similar. I think it is the front one. They are almost identicall to the Serpent ones, only the arms of the Tamiya ones are a bit longer and should solve your problem.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

I plan on thrashing mine till its dead. If the build quality is anything like they say this should not be an easliy accomplished feat and i should be able to retire this car after next years seasons.