16LikesSerpent S411
06-05-2014, 12:46 PM
#6571
I was thinking of picking up a Eryx 2.0, I was wondering if it could be updated to a 3.0?
06-05-2014, 01:24 PM
#6573
Yes you can update it. You'll need to buy the following:Also the Eryx 3.0 comes with composite antiroll bar mounts instead of aluminum mounts in the 2.0. As far as I can tell the composite antiroll bar mounts are not available to buy alone.
06-06-2014, 09:56 AM
#6575
I don't think so.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
06-06-2014, 10:21 AM
#6576
I don't think so.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
06-07-2014, 12:28 PM
#6577
I don't think so.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
But also note, when I look at this kit the aluminum inner link holder will only mount to the older cars if you update to the new 3.0 motor mount as well. The literature on this is a little misleading as it doesn't mention that part. Says its a direct bolt on, but if your running the older idler pulley assemblies, the ones using the two lower bolts for mounting to the chassis there would be no way to mount the new part without cutting up the older aluminum parts to free up the holes.
I'm also pretty sure those are modified rear arms and not front arms like they say.
06-09-2014, 06:12 AM
#6579
New RRS System released !
06-09-2014, 10:01 AM
#6580
Do you recommend to upgrade the ball bearings to ceramic... ACER?
06-09-2014, 11:09 AM
#6581
Ceramic bearings should cut down resistance. I ordered Boca ceramics for the drive train bearings, but haven't installed them yet. In the states we use click track or some sort of barrier system on the carpet tracks. Because of that, I wouldn't run ceramics in the hubs as a tap could blow them apart. On asphalt, or in let's say Europe where they use dots and no walls, I would think they would be fine in the hubs also. Just my opinion though.
06-09-2014, 07:56 PM
#6582
The tie rods are old Xray parts, I think they come from the T2 or early T3, they are about 16mm long.
The long screw I bought at our local bolt supply store, its metric but is a + type steel screw. Its 20mm long.
The spacer is a 2mm, although it doesn't sit flush on the suspension bridge, about a 1mm gap there.
The nylocks are regular 5.5mm nuts.
The mod works pretty good so far, no breakage on the modified arms, and the car seems to able to car pretty decent corner speed.
06-15-2014, 08:15 AM
#6584
Alright Guy's I have done a search on here and looked for a good bit of time and have not found what I have been looking for. I have the eyrx 2.0 and bought it used. I ran it for the first time yesterday. The steering bell crank keeps popping off the bearings can anyone tell me where to find the fix for this please?
I have spent 3 hours looking for this but there is a lot to read on here about this car!
I have spent 3 hours looking for this but there is a lot to read on here about this car!
06-15-2014, 08:53 AM
#6585
Alright Guy's I have done a search on here and looked for a good bit of time and have not found what I have been looking for. I have the eyrx 2.0 and bought it used. I ran it for the first time yesterday. The steering bell crank keeps popping off the bearings can anyone tell me where to find the fix for this please?
I have spent 3 hours looking for this but there is a lot to read on here about this car!
I have spent 3 hours looking for this but there is a lot to read on here about this car!
Put a layer of plastic bag over the bearings first, put the crank over them and push it in, the plastic must have been cut at the edges of the bearings, then remove the cut plastic pieces on top of bearing and you r done.
If that doesn't work, lift the crank safely from the car, put a drop of super glue on inner layer of holes where bearings go in and reinstall w bearings. When u do this, push into the bearings rather quickly and use plier to push the crank all the way down. Just be careful w glue or u may ruin the bearings.
Personally the plastic bag worked only for a short time but many say otherwise. Good luck.