snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Hey bud, where do you go for RC? I was there 2 months ago just sightseeing and wanted to take a visit to local track but I couldn't seem to be able to find any. Beautiful country really anyway.
BTW, the motor you have, isn't it too fast compared with other brands? I was going to get one but it seemed really unfair to the other guys with different motors when I checked out the kV rating.
And the servo tape. Does it keep the servo centered at neural? I remember it really did not with my old Yokomo YR4 car back in 1990. Of course cars are better nowdays yet I haven't seen a guy using servo tape only in order to fix the servo nowdays.
And Eryx has a similar issue with the servo mount and saver. The saver hits the steering rack when it's steered to the right side. I cut the right wall of the saver to make it work but still it touches the rack a bit. Eryx also has an issue that a bolt on the servo mount that faces the servo arm touches the arm unless I use an arm with taller adapter or I put a shim between the arm and servo. Total failure on steering rack and servo mount on S411. I don't understand why they don't fix it.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

The carbon fiber steering brace will not eliminate the loose feeling of the rack. That part was designed to stabalize the two pivot points. The Exotec chassis is a very flexible unit but drilled for the pre-eryx cars, so the split blocks cannot be used. I have run this chassis in CTA/VTA and it works quite well.

There are only two fixes for the loose steering rack because of the parts that make up the rack. The issue is that you have bearings floating in aluminum arms and unless you either glue the bearings into the arms (not advised) or do the plastic bag trick, you'll never get the loose out. Its like running rear uprights, there is a reason that the bearing goes into a plastic adapter, because if it didn't the bearing would have too much float and feel really loose.

The reason it doesn't get fixed is beacause its not broken. I don't know how to state this any simpler......the system was not designed to use a servo saver.......if you are/do, you'll have to come up with your own fix to make it work. Lots of us use a servo saver, and the ways to run it have been posted several times. You had to trim down one side of the saver to get more throw but if you're trying to get lock to lock throw you are already well past the effecient throw degrees of the steering and are now creating tire scrub or slowing the car down more than you have to in the corners.

Also if the button head screw is touching the graphite plate threw the sweep of the servo, make sure you haven't dropped the servo too low, the screws should be pretty much centered in the servo ear holes, giving you about 1mm of clearance between the chassis and the bottom of the servo. I may misunderstand the last part of your post about the screw issue, if the above is not what you're referring to.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

1. I don't throw servo out of efficient range Johnny. Like yourself said, the saver still needs to be trimmed down.
2. Fair to say that it doesn't get fixed because it's not broken. Can't argue with that but still it could've been better. They know lots of us use saver and that they should've taken it into consideration. Shouldn't they? Especially with years of serpent's technology and Salven's brilliant brain.
3. You got me wrong on the screw on servo mount and I need to correct myself. Sorry. Anyway, when I built the car by the manual, the bolt head that connects the servo horn and the connecting turnbuckle to steering rack was rubbing against the floating servo mount as it moved. So I ended up putting a small shim between the horn and servo in order to widen the gap. Later, I installed servo saver and it became irrelevant.
4. Slop in the steering rack: I don't understand what "the plastic adapter" you were referring to. I tried plastic bag trick and it was an absolute failure and I ended up breaking a few parts when it got loose a few times. So I glued the bearing to the rack. And I'm happy. Well if you say you don't recommend it, I don't know what to say but well it worked for me Why is it not recommended anyway?? I know it can be a delicate procedure but any other reason?
5. I was looking into Exotek chassis and it's a shame it can't be used in Eryx. It looks pretty decent. Have you also used 2mm chassis? Running Eryx mostly on outdoor asphalt track, I was thinking of getting it.

Thank you for your advice Johnny

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

1. Yes for sure the right side of the saver needs to be trimmed for full lock to lock throw if that's what your going for. Depending on which servo saver you use the amount trimmed of will vary.

2. I will add it to the list for Serpent to take into consideration. BTW I agree with you.

3. Sounds good.

4. Gluing the bearings can lead to expensive bushings if you get what I mean. Not sure how you ran into issues with the bag method, I must have close to 1000 hours of run time between 3 cars all with the same mod and they are all still tight. It's a very simple process and dependent on how loose it is you can vary by using different mil spec of the plastic.

5. It's a interesting topic, the split blocks give more flex, but the one piece will give more forward bite so in the case of the Exotech chassis, running the split block may make the car feel a little more stable, but the one piece in the back will produce more steering, which may be what your looking for. The old style Serpent 2.0mm chassis also had more flex where the new Eryx 2.0 mm hard chassis is very stiff, and probably not what you want for asphalt. If I where looking at running on asphalt I would probably run the 2.25mm chassis, it's pretty decent for all around, but then using different plastics, upper decks, motor mounts and center stand offs a very decent asphalt setup can be found. Use this forum and do a search for Tryhard's posts, he did a great deal of testing on asphalt and posted invaluable information in very concise posts.

Tshabalala

i just got into brushless and im running a 30T 48p Pinion and a 48p 75T spur gear on a 14turn Brushless motor with a 2s 20c lipo on my S411. What other pinion and spur configuration would you guys recommend?

scooby61

iTrader: (1)

Thinking of running this chassis in mod next year
Looking at the eryx or the te ed. Is there a big performance difference to justify the additional cost of the eryx or is it mostly bling.
My local track is a small parking lot track with a tight infield. Any insight appreciated

Bumpy

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys. I know this was talked about a while back but could someone tell me where to get small Spurs to get a very low FDR to run 21.5 Blinky. Will be outdoor asphalt on medium to larger sized tracks. Thanks.

KBRacing

Hi All,

What does it, when you run 2.0 / 0.0 front blocks, compared to the stock setup or 1.5 / 1.5 front blocks ......????

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

They set the front toe as far as I know. Somebody, correct me if I'm wrong. When you put 2.0 side outward, it sets the toe at 2. 0.0 outside then 0 toe. same applied to 1.5. Obviously 1.5/1.5 is mirror block meaning it doesn't matter which side you put laterally. They don't mean much because you can also adjust the toes by lengthening or shortening the steering turnbuckles.
Refer to the manual that says xray T3 setup book via the link below. It's not Serpent's but it was THE most valuable asset for me when I started this hobby a couple of years ago.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...0ee39f50b0f781

Good luck with your car and welcome to RC world!!

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

It's not a toe adjustment, since you would just adjust the turnbuckles to get the same toe as you noted.

I think it's usually referred to as "arm sweep", and the Xray book does not seem to address it. I think it would have some effect on the amount of bump steer, but I'm not really sure.

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

Not sure where's best to get them in your neck of the woods, but check out RW Racing for smaller size spurs.

KBRacing

Thanks for hingt Steve S.

Found an answer myself, " By moving the arm back on the hinge pin, you get a quicker reaction and slightly better forward grip .... "

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Are you sure that's not talking about front wheel base?

I think the rule of thumb with sweeping the arms back (front of hinge pin wider than rear of hinge pin) is that it gives a bit less turn-in, but gives more mid-corner grip.

-Mike

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

This... Arm sweep works in a similar manner to inboard rear toe, in that it affects the rate of camber change. Adding more sweep will give more mid-exit, and less initial.
But also need to bare in mind that just adding sweep will also shorten the front wheelbase, which in turn also change the ackerman... it's why I would tend to adjust the wheelbase when changing sweep as well. Honestly, normally ended up on 1.5/1.5 or 2.0/1.5 front blocks, seemed to be the best compromise.

Regards
Ed

Breeze

iTrader: (156)

What setup is everyone using for vta, I will be running a sport version