Niky_Freaky

Hello,
Next week I am gonna order the ERYX and want to ask couple of things. I am gonna run modified on asphalt track and sometimes carpet.
What motor do you think I should get? 4.5? 5.0?...
What Body works good with this car ?
what spare parts should I get?
What gears?
And option parts ?
Thanks in advance

whityboy

iTrader: (1)

ready for the weekend
The weather sucks this year here in belgium.
The first natiional is this weekend so I am prepared

whityboy

iTrader: (1)

Motor a 4.5
body: I really like the serpent body but it is to heavy. you can't go wrong with a mazda 6 speed or a LTC best hav both.
spare parts is difficult to say. do you like to hit stuff. get some arms.
only broke one front arm on the new car.
option parts I only recommend the DJC's. maybe some 1.5/0.5 split blocks if you like some more tuning opportunities

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

you should get the aluminum center small gears that sit on the out side of the spur. I striped my plastic ones last season running mod. As for motor, I ran a 8.5 with boost smooth on the in field and very fast on the straight.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Remembered the post you mention, this one from Pattojnr.
Post 5281

Not sure if the kits have been fixed though.
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Depends a lot on the size of track. For decent sized outdoor tracks, 4.5t is a good choice, as the wind means it can be tuned for a decent range of tracks (tighter, less boost, more open, more boost). For tight indoors I'd look towards a 5.5t. If your taking mod seriously, then I strongly recommend getting a faster motor from the start, and backing down the throttle EPA and adding expo until your used to it, rather than running a slower motor. It'll teach you better throttle control, and save having to up the motor when you want more power

Normal two choices would be the Pf Speed6 and LTC-R. Pretty much LTC for outdoors, Speed6 for carpet.

The serpent cars are really tough, in my whole time of running mod with the car I've done one rear hub... So I would just get a spare set of all the plastics (arms, wishbones, hub's). Also grab a set of belts, just in case.
Last part to grab would be a spare set of diff gears (#401594)

[quote]What gears?[quote]
For a 4.5, using the kit 84t spur, look for 20, 21 and 22t pinions (will give FDR range of 8.4 - 7.6)

Options wise, I strongly recommend the following;
#401445 - DCJ driveshafts for the front
#401597 - 1.5/0.5 mirrored blocks (to help remove some of the front arm sweep)
#160110 - Clear o-rings, a must to help stop the shocks leaking.

Optional's that are not essential, but well worth picking up;
#401585 - Second set of 0.0/2.0 mirrored blocks (to run wider, straight arms)
#401418 - 1.5 One-piece block (for front straight arms, narrower)
#401375 - 0.0 One-piece block (use in RF, helps to give more steering on wide open tracks)
#401591 - 2.0mm stiff chassis... seems to be the ticket for indoor carpet, but the kit chassis is better for outdoors.
#401427 - 19t Alloy pulleys. I personally never had an issue with the plastic pulleys (even running mod), but the alloy ones are nicer, and definitely won't strip!
#401592 - Spare composite diff... essential if you want to run a front gear diff, although most still use a spool.

Otherwise, just the usuals on springs (HPI and RIDE work well) and oils (400-600 for the shocks, 1k-3k for the diff) , and your all set

HiH
Ed

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

All the talk about springs I see, HPI, Ride, etc...Are the Serpent option springs not good?

Geberit

We were testing the Serpent springs (Black, Yellow and Gray). The combo Black/Black turned out to work really good on asphalt medium bite track. Also Black front Yellow back is not a bad combination but with a little different shock position.

I would say Blacks and Yellows are worth to try on asphalt everything else is a no go since it's way of what normally works on these days TC's.

Niky_Freaky

Thank you both, that really helped me.

luda

iTrader: (6)

Hi,

Just wanted some opinions on top decks and alloy options. After breaking the standard 2mm flex top deck in the eryx kit is it worth replacing with the same top deck or one of the other options considering change in flex etc.

Also are the alloy c hubs or alloy steering blocks worth looking at or better to stick with plastic?

Thanks!

vadersing

iTrader: (8)

I have just received my eryx kit, and enjoying the quality and the build so far.

However, I noticed that the material of the ball joints is rather hard and brittle compared to my previous Xray T3'12.

Has anyone faced any problems with their ball joints breaking or popping in races?

Any substitutes to consider (without having to replace the 4.5mm ball connectors)?


Thanks

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Hey,
I've tried alloy blocks and c-hubs and they are finer for 21.5,but if your running in mod,you will welcome the composite ones as alloy tends to scrub out the front with understeer.
You can get away with them in 13.5,just need to adjust your arm sweep,and or change tyres.
Is this for running at Dandenong?
Or elsewhere?
Cheers
Tim
PS. I've adjusted my front end to run with alloy,and I run the alloy uprights.
They look awesome.....lol

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Hi,
Just built mine last week,and they will be a lot stronger than you think.
They also seem way to tight as well,but after a couple of runs......ciao bella...all good!
Regards
Tim

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

http://www.serpent.com/product/400013/tech-tips/
Also check out this tech tip link.
Tim

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Page 21, A25 - 22.85mm
Page 23, A30 - 24.80mm
Page 27, A38 - 10.00mm
Page 30, A47 - 12.45mm
ERYX correct link lengths as per the link provided.
Front toe
Servo arm
Rear camber
Front camber
(for the lazy ones or people with no pc)
Tim