whityboy

iTrader: (1)

For us the eryx was a big improvement.
The car is much more consistent and easy to drive
My son always had trobble to have a clean 5 min run with the TE.
Now he has no probleme with it.
The design of the car has quite some changes that make the car very easy and consistent to drive.

RustinPeace

I tried the EPA and it helped but my controller only goes up to 120% so now I have a 6' turning radius, still too wide...

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Dude, I have Xray T3 and bought Eryx 2 weeks ago and ran last Sunday for the first time. Eryx was just simply beautiful. Just the opposite to your experience, I have resented so much of the T3 for the past year because I just couldn't get things right. BUT! the problem was that I bought T3 used. The previous owner obviously ran it on very sticky track because he drilled holes on shocks. So I put new sets of shocks which constantly leaked. Then the car oversteered for quite some time and I couldn't seem to get it corrected. Then I made lots of changes. Then it started understeering severely at the entry of corner and oversteering at the exit. So I resented not the car but the fact that I bought a used car. Then I got fooled again by another dude here on a purchase of supposedly newly built NT1. With money and time spent on those two used cars, I could've built several new cars. I got both cars right now and they run beautifully fortunately.
Bottom line, It's not the car that has problems but the setting. You might have built the car wrong. You might not have set the car right. You might have bought it used like I did. The lesson I learned from those two cars is that never buy a used car, especially nitro and if I do, build it from scratch again. That way you know how the car is.
Both are good cars. X-ray uses cheap plastic shocks which I hate so much. Eryx has aluminum shocks. I heard T4 uses aluminum too. Eryx' arm holders, spur mount and again, the shocks are simply a lot better than Xray. Both cars now use lower shock towers with short shocks and floating servo mount. That's about it I guess. Eryx is cheaper.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

There's no way it acts like that if everything is correct. Is it that the turning radius is wide when your car turns slowly or when it's going at a certain speed? Like somebody here said, you need to check if the steering block's tail touches the C arm. That's the maximum steering you get from the car. And I assume you check the dual rate of your transmitter. If you haven't, check it too

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Do you have Dual Rate adjustment? If so, crank it up as well..

Duran

Hi there !

In a couple of weeks there'll be a huge race in İzmir/ TURKEY.I dont have enough time to go to the track in that city and try setups and best spur/pinion match for 13.5 blinky.I believe that i can deal with the general setup but i have doubts about which pinion/spur to go with ? FDR limit is 4.0 and the track is veeery fast, very long, very fast corners with a lots of traction.Which spur/pinion combination would be the best for that track ?

Best Regards
Can DURAN

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

dura:
Go down until 4.0. 96/48 it's a good option, and if it's too large go down one or two thoots in the pinion.


Rustin, over problems with not having enough mechanical steering, be sure you are using a servo horn as long as the original. I was having the same problems as I was using a servosaver and after changing to the original horn my car has change.
Also you can try to shorten wheelbase.

regards

Duran

Thanks Jimjav !

I am looking for the most efficient one.I was thinking about 64pitch 90/45 and 80/40.But i wil also try the one you recommended.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

I loved Izmir!!!! I didn't know you guys have that huge track! Should've visited there! Enjoy the racing. As far as you meet 4.0 FDR, there's only minute difference between the size of spurs. Go with whatever spur you already have. Usually 72-100 spurs are better because you can take out your motor through the holes in the spur gear. If it goes below 72, it might get difficult to do that. Stock spur is 84ish if I remember correctly so stick with that. Then the pinion would be 42 to get to 4.0 FDR. Have fun and say my hello to Izmir!

Duran

Thanks a lot snuvet75 ! Yes it's a huuge track with very high traction You should come and race with us in Turkish Touring Championship (TTS) one day ! You will be welcomed ! Everybody is invited though Next weekend there'll be a big nitro race too, Michael Salven will join us also.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

A friend is loaning me his original S411 to run possibly for this years Reedy race. The only hop up that I'm aware it has is an Exotek chassis. What set up should I put on the car for outdoor asphalt med grip? I don't plan on buying all the hop up's to make it like the current car as it's just a loaner. The old car is still competitive right??? I just want to have fun but also want the car to work as best as it can. I looked on petitrc at set up's and was thinking of just running Scott's set up. I welcome all suggestions.

I'll be running 17.5NR if this makes a difference....

Timmah

Quick question from a probie.

I have bought a serpent s411rtr cause it was rediculously cheap. Do normal serpent s411 parts fit on it? Just thinking about grabbing some spare parts and need to know whether to be particular with the model when ordering on the phone... Cheers in advance.

Tim.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

IMO the car does not need much but there are a few cheap upgrades that will help. Some of the below suggestions may already be on the car. See if he has any of the option toe blocks as having the 1.5 for the front is a must and having the 3.5 and 2.5 for the rear is a good option to have. It may already have a V2 steering plate on the car if not you will need one to do the steering mod on the front to get any decent Ackerman adjustment.

Id buy

The new V2 composite diff for the rear

the new low steering posts and v2 steering plate(this plate may be on the car already) to modify the steering so it is lower like the new car.

See if he has some spare shock pistons so you can run either 4 or 6 hole pistons( drill out some 3 holes to get 6) as the car likes this set up outdoors.

You will need hard arms if they are not on the car already.

You want an LTCR body.

A 1.6 front bar would also be a nice option.

I'm sure you have HPI silver and pink springs to run.

About $80 of parts from rc mushroom there

PS I only run outdoors 17.5 as we got no rug in Australia. Ive found the stock car likes a harder spring, oil and bar combo. I will run 1.6/1.4 bars, pink silver or gold silver springs with 500 or 600 oil front 500 rear with 3/4 holes or 2000/1500 with 6 holes.

The old car does lack a bit of rotation and direction change but is by no means uncompetitive.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for the info. I get the car tomorrow and should have time Sunday for a complete tear down and part assessment.

venom54

Yes, all parts from the S411TE and ERYX (within reason) kits will replace the plastic parts of the S411RTR.

Cheers Ren